The BBS' are ~18lbs (17.8, IIRC). RP-F1s in stock size are 15.5lbs. Buddy Clubs are ~14.5lbs, albeit at twice the cost of RP-F1s. Volk CN28s are very light, as well, though I can't recall their exact weight ATM.

To give an example of the possible savings, a stock BBS wheel shod with a Star Spec in stock size is ~45lbs. A RP-F1 shod with a Hankook V12 is ~39lbs. That's 6lbs off each corner at the most vital spot on the car.

 

MR BBS is 17.7lbs

Enkie RPF1 is 15.5lbs

Kosei K1 TS is also 15.xlbs IIRC

 

I didnt see your post

 

This car is going to hall with a little more weight out. Doing coilovers saves 35+lbs, then do the mustache bar eliminator. 2 best bang for the buck. then prob a drive shaft. Small front brakes up front are a nice 30lbs off but your talking $1000+

 

 

Attached is a 1/4 Mile E.T. and MPH calculator using data from EvoM members posted in the "The Official Dyno # vs. Track time thread!"

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/dr...ml#post8231042

Although it may only give you a broad estimate, using "real" Evo numbers provides a higher coefficient of determination versus online HP, MPH, ET calculators. You can adjust HP numbers and weight to see what adding HP or removing lbs might do for your 1/4 mile times & traps.

NOTE: If this is useless, please disregard.

Thanks,

Jay

 

I assume all of these are 17x8?

 

um. a small break kit? i do not agree one bit.

call david B. and order a set of girodisk ultra light rotors. 28.00lbs total of 100% rotational mass VS stock rotors.

then get a set of light rims followed by a AWD driveshaft. always start with rotational weight VS static weight. unless the static weight is free ''removal bits''

as for suspension. apex N1 is 45LBs lighter then stock. Megan coil overs i believe are 35lbs lighter then stock

 

Yes

 

The mustache bar elim kit is to get rid of the clunk on hard shifts and shed some weight. For starters I am going to pry do mustache elim kit, quartermaster clutch(10 lbs off rotating is what I read) and drive shaft. Then a little later I will pry do wheels. I am going to try and do auto x/ road course and drag with this car. Yet remain streetable with full interior.

 

I still say Coilovers, what you can get some Megans for is a good chunk of weight off the car. Then i hate to say it but some small brakes up front would be a killer reduction.

 

anyone know what the difference is with removing weight. like 50lbs makes u X fast 100 lbs makes you X faster.

why do small brakes when u can get giro disk ultra lights??????????? can anyone answer that??? and if you say to run slicks get some 16 inch RX7 rims. they fit over are breaks. there now u got a slick. sooo why a small break kit on a street car?

 

The "rule" is 100 pounds off the car will add 1mph to your trap speed and lose -0.1 of your ET in the 1/4 mile.

Another "rule" is when removing unsprung weight (ie wheels), every 1lb removed is equal to removing 4lbs of sprung weight.

 

does any one know how much nitto nt05s weigh 235/40/17. I found a good deal on some light rims.

 

The static weight like 100lbs is 10hp or so give or take. But the more you drop the more the ratio improves. (example a sport bike) I have also heard that rotating mass 1lb= 1hp. So 10lbs= 10hp ! driveshaft and light rims/brakes should gain you 40lbs or 40hp (more whp)