lol @ acetone. I just spray windex on the back and it just wipes off.

 

If it is really deep, clear coat polish will take it off, especially with a polisher, even the cheap $10 one you get at autozone.

 

stp "oomph" works great

 

personally i leave the carbon on the tip of the bumper where the exhaust is cuz i think it looks cool since when i backfire i shoot a nice flame lol... but rubbing compound or claybar works...

 

claybar will remove it all. My Evo is white, and my car is running very rich. Needles to say, rear is black. Claybar takes it all off, don't forget to wax .

 

this is good stuff and its non toxic and bio degradeable

 

Just wax it, the stuff comes right off. I use Mother's Caranuba wax.

 

I used Scratch-X when I had the issue. Works great. I did it once a week so it didnt get bad ever and it made all the difference.

 

You really don't want to be just waxing the stuff, clean it off first, then wax it.

 

I've purposefully stayed out of this thread. You guys may want to read through some of the tutorials link'd below before you really damage your paint:

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...ces-newbs.html

 

I believe my suggestions were right on par, the acetone suggestion is a whole other story.

 

Simple Green worked perfect for me! My entire bumper/spoiler/air dam was muggy brown after winter. One wipe with Simple Green and a coat of wax and it was back to Gray!

 

Admittedly, your suggestions were not the worst. Just above, you probably didn't realize that the individual was using a cleaner wax. It contains a mild chemical cleaner that can reduce oxidation, carbon deposits, etc. A strong chemical cleaner, like KAIO (Klasse All In One) or JWPS (Jeff's Werkstat Prime Strong) is perhaps the best way to initially attack the issue.

You were right on the money suggesting that folks use a wax or a sealant to protect the paint, allowing for easy removal of carbon deposits. This is where specifics come into play. No wax will last more than an hour next the exhaust. The temperatures are too high. Sealants can tolerate higher temps, but again, specifics are important. The only product that can offer extended durability in this application is Finish Kare 1000P.

Folks interested in maintaining their paint can refer to the link posted earlier. Otherwise, proceed as usual. Just don't complain about sh!tty Mitsubishi paint after you spray it with solvents, and needlessly and incorrectly applied abrasives.

 

Definitely clean it first, get as much off as possible. I wouldn't use Simple Green or any other cleaner, just car wash soap. THEN wax it and the remaining carbon will come right off. I use Caranuba not a cleaner wax, rubbing compound or any other more abrasive "wax".

 

I used Meguiars Clay Bar.