Forgot TDC before belt removal. HELP??
Don't forget, if they are still installed, the balance shafts have to be in time also and they also have to be in phase for the front one. The bolt to remove to check and see if they are in phase is behind the downpipe o2 housing area on the front of the block. The timing mark on the crank is actually a notch in the crank blade that lines up with the "pointer" on the front case cover. The cam gears obviously have marks that line up with grooves in the valve cover and the balance shaft gears have dots that line up with pointers on the front case cover also. Make sure that you set the tension correctly with the eccentric pulley before you pull the pin on the hydraulic adjuster. After you pull the pin it should easily slide in and out of the hole all the way.
Josh
Josh
Evolved Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 151
From: Grand Island, NE
Just turning everything until the marks line up is not good advice. Making sure the pistons are down when aligning the cams is good advice. I recommend having the spark plugs out so you can see the pistons. Also, when turning the crank to alignment you will feel any piston valve contact without fighting compression with the spark plugs out.
You need to re-align everything in this order to avoid any contact with valves and pistons.
Make sure the crank pulley is NOT at TDC or 180 degrees away from TDC (that would be TDC for pistons 2/3). 90 degrees away from TDC would put all the pistons halfway up the bore. Once this is done, move the cam/cams to their alignment marks. Now all the valves will be closed or close enough to not make contact with any pistons. Now move the crank back to TDC and start your belt installation.
Make sure the crank pulley is NOT at TDC or 180 degrees away from TDC (that would be TDC for pistons 2/3). 90 degrees away from TDC would put all the pistons halfway up the bore. Once this is done, move the cam/cams to their alignment marks. Now all the valves will be closed or close enough to not make contact with any pistons. Now move the crank back to TDC and start your belt installation.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA
You need to re-align everything in this order to avoid any contact with valves and pistons.
Make sure the crank pulley is NOT at TDC or 180 degrees away from TDC (that would be TDC for pistons 2/3). 90 degrees away from TDC would put all the pistons halfway up the bore. Once this is done, move the cam/cams to their alignment marks. Now all the valves will be closed or close enough to not make contact with any pistons. Now move the crank back to TDC and start your belt installation.
Make sure the crank pulley is NOT at TDC or 180 degrees away from TDC (that would be TDC for pistons 2/3). 90 degrees away from TDC would put all the pistons halfway up the bore. Once this is done, move the cam/cams to their alignment marks. Now all the valves will be closed or close enough to not make contact with any pistons. Now move the crank back to TDC and start your belt installation.
Evolved Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 151
From: Grand Island, NE
The one fly in the ointment is the oil pump sprocket. It can be lined up with its mark and still be off. The location is correct every two revolutions. You may have to do the screwdriver trick to get this sprocket in time. There are some tricks in the how-to sections that may allow you to by pass this step.
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