i dont have ported TB but i wanted to seal up the slight space by the throttle plate. during TB rebuild, its extremely easy to remove the existing mitsu's black sealant. please refer to the thread below.....

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ttle-body.html

when i shine light through my TB, i can see crack of light on top and bottom of my TB plate. i even considered metal tape to slightly seal it up but im concerned it would loose adhesion from engine heat and will get sucked up into the motor. any ideas?

 

I just cleaned my throttle body not long ago. I guess I removed all that stuff. The throttle feals alot smoother, but my idle is around 1k. Maybe that's the cause, but it doesn't bother me too much. Sorry, not much help.

 

yeah thats unacceptable for me cuz my idle is already at 1100 (pre-rebuild). i want my idle lower, not higher

 

i redid mine with jb weld works great but when you put it on every 5 min or so keep opening the throttle until it cures otherwise youll have it sealed in a way you dont want. after it cures take a small piece of 220 sandpaper and smooth the spots wheres it catches until it works smoothly. when your done youll have no light coming through and a smooth operating plate

 

excellent suggestion with jbweld... it should stand up alil heat no problem. for now i just adjusted the idle screw alittle to compensate and install it... lets see what happens.

 

what will happen is you wont be able to get your idle below 1000

 

you think? i havent done any adjustment in ecuflash yet... im very hopeful once i get a nice seal around the TB plate, combine that with idle screw and ecuflash adjustment ill get idle down to 800 - 900 rpm

 

That stuff is actually gray. Dow321. You apply it to the back side of the plate when it's closed.

 

yeah i already linked the thread mentioning that molykote but its not easy to find online or locally..

hear me out, what do you think about using extremely high temperature paint? such as this...
http://www.vhtpaint.com/flameproof.html

its thick enough that one or two layers around the throttle wall would seal any cracks easily, resists temperature up to 2000F, and wont get in the way of the TB plate movement if you mask thoroughly. extreme worst case scenario, if any paint chips and gets into the engine it will just disintegrate anyhow and get collected by the oil filter. its crazy idea but maybe it would work.
(also these very high temp paints aren't 100% paint, as they have extremely high ceramic content... its almost like ceramic coating in a rattlecan)

 

why are you still looking? im actually using jb weld and it works great. and dow is the actual stuff

 

because i've used JBweld in the past and it can get flaky at times. JBweld particles that loosen are hard and potentially will scratch piston walls if it ever gets loose....

i'm still brain storming whats the best method....

 

Wow, dont use JB weld on the smooth part of the TB to attemp and close that small gap.

What you can do is loosen the screws on the shaft to plate and let the TB snap close a couple times to make sure its centered. Just a 1/4 swing on the snap should be fine. Then tighten the screws. As long as the gap isnt absurdly large then there should be plenty of adjustment in the BISS. Regardless, you will see a bit of light in through the plates.

If you still have a high idle Id look for vacuum leaks. This is where checking idle airflow is convenient. If you have a normal idle airflow but high idle you know you should be looking for a leak somewhere.

 

appreciation the response... i didnt know how much light shining through is "normal". i read one guy saying there shouldnt be any light shining, but then again he could have been exaggerating.

i have a hunch i should be in ok shape anyhow. i havent even tried installing my rebuilt TB yet, just brainstorming as said.

 

I had a used 1g TB I swapped in my 2g a few years ago that had quite a bit of gap in it. When it all got put together the car idled at ~2500 rpms. Just doing the process I mentioned above the gap was pretty much cut down to 1/4 what it was and still idles at 900rpms (set point)

 

after two weeks, and about 250 miles later, my idle problem took care of itself. ( computer compensated.) but i had already bought a new throttle body. slapped the boomba in, and was surprised at how good it felt. you might be f'd, cause you messed with the BISS screw. there was a thread on here about relearning idle on their evo. you have to start the car 3 times, idle, and theres a sequence of things to do. i think if you search "idle reset" or something, it may come up. good luck. theres nothing that compares to the mitsubishi goop, that i could find locally.