new time/video have questions!
new time/video have questions!
First off i will start by saying friday night i went to the TnT at clay city KY. i ran 12.97 @ 105 i met my goal that i set to be done before i leave for basic training nov 16.
This was using NLTS mod.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRIwQ7IKBQk
my mod list:
megan racing header,
megan racing 02 housing,
Walbro 255 Fuel pump,
Hallman manual boost,
HKS turbo timer,
Koyo aluminum Radiator,
ETS lower and upper piping,
ETS 3 1/2" Intercooler,
Greddy type RS BOV,
HKS Suction Intake,
DC Sports downpipe,
HKS Hi-Power Exhaust,
B&M short shifter,
Metal shift bushings,
Stainless Clutch line,
ACT HDSS Clutch,
GruppeS Light Flywheel,
Drilled and slotted Rotors,
Hawk Racing brake pads,
2-gauge A-Pillar,
AEM wideband,
Defi Boost,
Relocated battery, trottle cable, and vac hoses
Oil Catch can,
FALKEN FK452 tires,
TephraMod PATCH: NLTS+KNOCK CELL+VALET MODE(aka anti theft), from (EvoM)
Self Tune,(with help from other members on EvoM.net)
23-24psi
this is from my slip that run;
reaction .902
60' 1.834
1/8 8.308
1/8 mph 82.420
1/4 12.971
1/4 mph 105.573
i dont really know what HP i should be at. also i have to shift into 2nd just short of 7,000rpms or i will not beable to go into gear.
does this seem like im doing ok on my times or am i just making a driver error some where?
This was using NLTS mod.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRIwQ7IKBQk
my mod list:
megan racing header,
megan racing 02 housing,
Walbro 255 Fuel pump,
Hallman manual boost,
HKS turbo timer,
Koyo aluminum Radiator,
ETS lower and upper piping,
ETS 3 1/2" Intercooler,
Greddy type RS BOV,
HKS Suction Intake,
DC Sports downpipe,
HKS Hi-Power Exhaust,
B&M short shifter,
Metal shift bushings,
Stainless Clutch line,
ACT HDSS Clutch,
GruppeS Light Flywheel,
Drilled and slotted Rotors,
Hawk Racing brake pads,
2-gauge A-Pillar,
AEM wideband,
Defi Boost,
Relocated battery, trottle cable, and vac hoses
Oil Catch can,
FALKEN FK452 tires,
TephraMod PATCH: NLTS+KNOCK CELL+VALET MODE(aka anti theft), from (EvoM)
Self Tune,(with help from other members on EvoM.net)
23-24psi
this is from my slip that run;
reaction .902
60' 1.834
1/8 8.308
1/8 mph 82.420
1/4 12.971
1/4 mph 105.573
i dont really know what HP i should be at. also i have to shift into 2nd just short of 7,000rpms or i will not beable to go into gear.
does this seem like im doing ok on my times or am i just making a driver error some where?
First off i will start by saying friday night i went to the TnT at clay city KY. i ran 12.97 @ 105 i met my goal that i set to be done before i leave for basic training nov 16.
This was using NLTS mod.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRIwQ7IKBQk
my mod list:
megan racing header,
megan racing 02 housing,
Walbro 255 Fuel pump,
Hallman manual boost,
HKS turbo timer,
Koyo aluminum Radiator,
ETS lower and upper piping,
ETS 3 1/2" Intercooler,
Greddy type RS BOV,
HKS Suction Intake,
DC Sports downpipe,
HKS Hi-Power Exhaust,
B&M short shifter,
Metal shift bushings,
Stainless Clutch line,
ACT HDSS Clutch,
GruppeS Light Flywheel,
Drilled and slotted Rotors,
Hawk Racing brake pads,
2-gauge A-Pillar,
AEM wideband,
Defi Boost,
Relocated battery, trottle cable, and vac hoses
Oil Catch can,
FALKEN FK452 tires,
TephraMod PATCH: NLTS+KNOCK CELL+VALET MODE(aka anti theft), from (EvoM)
Self Tune,(with help from other members on EvoM.net)
23-24psi
this is from my slip that run;
reaction .902
60' 1.834
1/8 8.308
1/8 mph 82.420
1/4 12.971
1/4 mph 105.573
i dont really know what HP i should be at. also i have to shift into 2nd just short of 7,000rpms or i will not beable to go into gear.
does this seem like im doing ok on my times or am i just making a driver error some where?
This was using NLTS mod.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRIwQ7IKBQk
my mod list:
megan racing header,
megan racing 02 housing,
Walbro 255 Fuel pump,
Hallman manual boost,
HKS turbo timer,
Koyo aluminum Radiator,
ETS lower and upper piping,
ETS 3 1/2" Intercooler,
Greddy type RS BOV,
HKS Suction Intake,
DC Sports downpipe,
HKS Hi-Power Exhaust,
B&M short shifter,
Metal shift bushings,
Stainless Clutch line,
ACT HDSS Clutch,
GruppeS Light Flywheel,
Drilled and slotted Rotors,
Hawk Racing brake pads,
2-gauge A-Pillar,
AEM wideband,
Defi Boost,
Relocated battery, trottle cable, and vac hoses
Oil Catch can,
FALKEN FK452 tires,
TephraMod PATCH: NLTS+KNOCK CELL+VALET MODE(aka anti theft), from (EvoM)
Self Tune,(with help from other members on EvoM.net)
23-24psi
this is from my slip that run;
reaction .902
60' 1.834
1/8 8.308
1/8 mph 82.420
1/4 12.971
1/4 mph 105.573
i dont really know what HP i should be at. also i have to shift into 2nd just short of 7,000rpms or i will not beable to go into gear.
does this seem like im doing ok on my times or am i just making a driver error some where?
pretty good time for im assuming first at track with it. If you look your reaction time is almost a full second. Dont wait for the green light. Test n tunes run the 2 stage lights, and 3 yellows before the green. Once you see the 3rd yellow FULLY light up you have.5 seconds before green. If you were to cut that down,youll shave almost a full second off your time..
my personal best was a .0142 (thats 1 thousanth of a second). But it takes practice as i red lighted numerous of times before i started getting it. Just takes practice man. But keep it up.
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pretty good time for im assuming first at track with it. If you look your reaction time is almost a full second. Dont wait for the green light. Test n tunes run the 2 stage lights, and 3 yellows before the green. Once you see the 3rd yellow FULLY light up you have.5 seconds before green. If you were to cut that down,youll shave almost a full second off your time..
my personal best was a .0142 (thats 1 thousanth of a second). But it takes practice as i red lighted numerous of times before i started getting it. Just takes practice man. But keep it up.
Actually, if the light went green and you sat there for 5 minutes, it has no effect on your ET when you complete the run. You could still run a 12.0 second run just with a 5:00.500 reaction time. Obviously you wouldnt win the race, but there is no difference in your ET. Reaction time starts when the final yellow lights and stops when your car takes off. When you take off the timer for the race starts and ends when you reach the finish line. Reaction time just gives you a jump on the other car. Your reaction time has no bearing on what your ET time is.
Thats basing it off of a Test and Tune track setting. I know that you can sit at the line for an hour at a test&tune and the time doesnt start until you cross the line. But in a time trial event your reaction time would count towards your time correct?IE, if the light turned green and you didnt move for a second it would count towards your total time. Im still new on the track, but slowly picking it up. So if im wrong, dont hesitate to make me know it.
Actually, if the light went green and you sat there for 5 minutes, it has no effect on your ET when you complete the run. You could still run a 12.0 second run just with a 5:00.500 reaction time. Obviously you wouldnt win the race, but there is no difference in your ET. Reaction time starts when the final yellow lights and stops when your car takes off. When you take off the timer for the race starts and ends when you reach the finish line. Reaction time just gives you a jump on the other car. Your reaction time has no bearing on what your ET time is.
Good luck in Basic!
thanx for all the good feedback i figured i get flamed alot lol.
is 1.8 good 60' i know iv seen alot of 1.7s but i just feel like its the best i can do?
This is why you can't shift past 7k i guarantee it! i, and many of my friends have all had the same prol with act..
i wish they would fix whatever the issue is with their clutch, or stop offering them for modified evos all together! i'm sure they've cost alot of people alot of money


