Help! Making no power on dyno.
It'll show some at idle but not a ton, you really want to hook your boost gauge up at the manifold. You should only use the turbo's outlet pipe for boost control.
I'd do a compression test on the car & get someone a bit more experienced to check the timing.
I'd do a compression test on the car & get someone a bit more experienced to check the timing.
Last edited by VRSF Tiago; Nov 2, 2010 at 02:44 PM.
Well my tuner said if the crank is off a tooth it would be 2 teeth on the cams. He said 2 teeth on the cams and the valves would touch. Is this not true? I moved my boost gauge line to the manifold and Im seeing 11-12lbs vaccum at idle and like 14-16lbs at cruise speeds with no throttle. Boost went down 2 lbs from j-pipe to manifold as well, obviously it was lost in the pipng/intercooler.
you cannot tell if a coupler is leaking simply because "nothing looks loose"" or the fact that it did not blow off. it can still leak. 
the surge your experiencing, the screaming turbo with no boost & overall lack of power are all clear signs of a major boost leak, a car can still make the boost guage move & drive decently with a leak, it will just be spinning that turbo to some insane wheel speeds to do it, thereby creating all the symptoms your currently experiencing
id recommend another boost leak test at 10 psi above your intended boost level. double clamp & hairspray will work if its a clamping/blowoff issue, but ideally you should get some T-bolt clamps. also if you haven't already (sorry, I'm too lazy to read whole thread) FIX THE GHETTO SEALED J-PIPE! the seal from the dealer is not expensive or difficult to change (disconnect battery & remove starter & its a 30 min fix with hand tools)
the surge your experiencing, the screaming turbo with no boost & overall lack of power are all clear signs of a major boost leak, a car can still make the boost guage move & drive decently with a leak, it will just be spinning that turbo to some insane wheel speeds to do it, thereby creating all the symptoms your currently experiencing
id recommend another boost leak test at 10 psi above your intended boost level. double clamp & hairspray will work if its a clamping/blowoff issue, but ideally you should get some T-bolt clamps. also if you haven't already (sorry, I'm too lazy to read whole thread) FIX THE GHETTO SEALED J-PIPE! the seal from the dealer is not expensive or difficult to change (disconnect battery & remove starter & its a 30 min fix with hand tools)
Have you fixed the boost leak at the throttle body? Throttle body shaft seals, I think it is especially bad on the '05's. Also check the PCV valve, it may be clogged and caused your coolant system to pressurize.
Before I ever go to the Dyno there are a few check that I always do.
1. Verify Crank and Cam Timing is correct. There are marks for the cams and crank. Just make sure they line up.
2. Verify Base Ignition Timing(With Timing Light)
3. Check compression before(Write Down Compression #'s and verify after dyno)
4. Check Coolent
5. Check Oil/Do oil Change before dyno
6. Replace Spark Plugs, verify Gap
7. Check filter to ensure it is free of any blockage(if K&N Recharge it)
8. Boost Leak test
9. Overall run through of the car to make sure that everything is in the shape it is supposed to be in.
10. Always check your lug nuts to ensure they are tight
11. Take car for small test drive to listen for strange sounds
12. Feel free to repeat all of the checks a few times
On the Dyno
After it is strapped down and warmed up. I let it sit for 5min while get laptop ready. Then Check oil level.
After the dyno.
1. Depending on how many pulls Change Oil
2. Check spark plugs and replace if needed
3. Check compression #'s and compare to pre tune numbers
4. Quick once over on the car to verify that everything is still in 100% good condition
1. Verify Crank and Cam Timing is correct. There are marks for the cams and crank. Just make sure they line up.
2. Verify Base Ignition Timing(With Timing Light)
3. Check compression before(Write Down Compression #'s and verify after dyno)
4. Check Coolent
5. Check Oil/Do oil Change before dyno
6. Replace Spark Plugs, verify Gap
7. Check filter to ensure it is free of any blockage(if K&N Recharge it)
8. Boost Leak test
9. Overall run through of the car to make sure that everything is in the shape it is supposed to be in.
10. Always check your lug nuts to ensure they are tight
11. Take car for small test drive to listen for strange sounds
12. Feel free to repeat all of the checks a few times
On the Dyno
After it is strapped down and warmed up. I let it sit for 5min while get laptop ready. Then Check oil level.
After the dyno.
1. Depending on how many pulls Change Oil
2. Check spark plugs and replace if needed
3. Check compression #'s and compare to pre tune numbers
4. Quick once over on the car to verify that everything is still in 100% good condition
Is there a mark on the crank pulley? Or do I need to pull the timing belt cover off? I can check that tonight, I dont have a timing light but that is one thing the tuner checked I believe.
It was making 11psi the first pull, and the second was 15lbs at the turbo. So probably 9 at the manifold and 13. There actually might be a leak at the throttle body. I heard a slight hiss from behind the butterfly but when I opened the throttle a little it went away. I figured it was just air going around the butterfly. If you wanna fly out here be my guest lol but bring goodies with you! Its beautiful country here