they're stock size.

thanks bro. i know. next season, we need to meet up

 

it's amazing how when someone puts up a thread like this all of the "Expert" drivers come out of the woodwork to tell the OP what he already stated. Yes he was speeding, yes, it created the condition, but I seriously doubt that any of us who push our cars have never pushed them too far or had a near miss. Many people who consider themselves good drivers are either people who never push their cars, or people you got lucky a couple times....that said back to what the OP was really asking for....

Hydroplaning is when you get a film of water between your tires and the road surface. Many things factor into when and how you will hydroplane.
1. Depth of standing water that is driven through. The deeper the puddle the higher the chance to hydroplane at a given speed.
2. Tire width. The wider the tire, the more chance you have of hydroplaning at a given speed. The wider tire has to move more water to get to the road and also creates more of a waterski effect on the water.
3. Tread depth. The shorter the tread, the higher your chance to hydroplane at a given speed. the shorter tread depth results in smaller, less efficient pathways directing the water out from underneath the tire.
4. Tire pressure. The lower the tire pressure, the higher your chance of hydroplaning at a given speed. this works by changing the shape, and therefore the contact area of the tire. It also affects the deflection characteristics of the tire in the tire-to-water impact.
5. Tire tread design. Tire tread is designed for a combination of dry traction, wet traction (which is a factor of both material composition and tread pattern), noise, wear life, cost, etc. Because of this, every tire is a compromise between these factors. Different tires will hydroplane at different speeds, all other factors constant.
6. Speed. Obviously, you know that speed is the largest factor since it shows up in each of the previous statements. the faster you are going, the shorter time you are giving your tires and the related mechanics to work to keep you on the road.

Now to your question about why you started spinning. This could be from many different things. The instant that you start hydroplaning, your car will behave in much the same manner as if it was on ice. If one wheel or a set of wheels starts hydroplaning before the wheels on the opposite side, then the car will have a tendency to turn or spin. Throttle changes or brake changes can make things worse, but will by themselves not cause you to spin. Steering inputs (even tiny ones) can make things go bad really quickly. If possible, it is best to keep the car as straight as possible and let off the throttle slowly to allow the friction that does exist between the tires and the water to slow you down enough to allow you to regain traction.
Gravity is always working on your car, if you are hydroplaning (or for that matter sliding on ice) the contribution of gravity to the sum net force vector can increase tremendously causing you to slide down hill. The force of gravity is proportional to mass so the front of the car would slide downhill first. Another force is centripetal force...like gravity it is always acting on your car, but when not being counteracted by the force being applied to the road by the tires, its contribution becomes the major force, thus causing you to fly off the road to the outside of a curve..

sorry about the textbook. If you want a deeper understanding, look into the physics of moving bodies on earth and dynamics. Glad you didn't get hurt or hurt someone else...

I hydroplaned on my 615s going 50 on the interstate and also started going sideways a couple years ago...so even if you are being what you think is safe, you don't know the true limits of your particular setup until you touch it..

 

^ thank you!!! very helpful information

 

glad to hear you didnt get hurt!!

as far as everyone saying how stupid he is for driving so fast, everyone has driven their evo at that speed at least a couple times

 

I would double check the tires. One year it rained real bad here and I was only doing 45 to 50 and my rear always wanted to kick out and drift right. Turns out inside of tires were worn. I've gotten new tires since then and cruise through rain doing 55 to 70 with no problems.

 

Like the others said, its your driving/tires. When i read, "I adjusted the steering wheel and stepped on the brakes.", I thought the next sentence was going to be, "I immediately spun into the ditch." Please learn about car dynamics, the Evo saved its self this time, but they will spin if provoked and I don't like seeing them all smashed up, it makes me

 

I'm confused.

Someone help me out here, what was the point of the post?

 

Don't drive fast in water with tires that have 2/32nds tread or less. They don't do anything for you.

If you start to slide or the back end starts to go out, stay on the throttle and don't do anything jerky. Counter steer, and ride it out.

Step on the brakes and you'll whip it around.