Reverse Lights Not Working? It's Probably the Backup Light Switch
Apr 1, 2012, 10:21 PM
#16
MJ23FE - Did you have difficulty getting into reverse before you replaced the switch? Or was it just that the reverse lights didn't come on?
I am having intermittent difficulty getting into reverse and I have a newly rebuilt sheptrans tranny. Just wanted to see if if your issue lined up with the comment on the sheptrans FAQ.
"After my rebuild I can't get my car into reverse but will go into 1st through 5th?
The most common problem is that the reverse light switch is over tightened or missing the washer underneath the switch. Simply remove the switch and replace the washer. "
Did you have a washer, or did you also replace with a washer?
I am having intermittent difficulty getting into reverse and I have a newly rebuilt sheptrans tranny. Just wanted to see if if your issue lined up with the comment on the sheptrans FAQ.
"After my rebuild I can't get my car into reverse but will go into 1st through 5th?
The most common problem is that the reverse light switch is over tightened or missing the washer underneath the switch. Simply remove the switch and replace the washer. "
Did you have a washer, or did you also replace with a washer?
Apr 2, 2012, 09:37 PM
#18
Sheptrans responded right away with suggestions to troubleshoot. I had a buddy come over and shift while I was under hood. Looks like the upper IC and hoses sagged a bit with my IM and TB work noted in other threads. This cause the shift linkage that needs to raise up for reverse to just barely touch the bottom of the Uturn hose to the recirc valve.
For those that have the stock path for the upper IC, this won't make much sense but the aftermarket ones that require mini battery or battery relocation get close to the space for the shift linkages on top of the trans. I had just completely thorough boost leak testing and all the clamping and removal and retightening somehow shifted the height of the hoses just a 1/4 inch. Enough to physically block out reverse. Resolved the easy way. Cut 1/2 inch of the Uturn hose to the recirc valve.
I figured something didn't match, because when it did go in, it was fine, and the reverse lights came on as they should. So from these threads I learned to check for pennies in the in cab linkage, and check your hoses for sag.
For those that have the stock path for the upper IC, this won't make much sense but the aftermarket ones that require mini battery or battery relocation get close to the space for the shift linkages on top of the trans. I had just completely thorough boost leak testing and all the clamping and removal and retightening somehow shifted the height of the hoses just a 1/4 inch. Enough to physically block out reverse. Resolved the easy way. Cut 1/2 inch of the Uturn hose to the recirc valve.
I figured something didn't match, because when it did go in, it was fine, and the reverse lights came on as they should. So from these threads I learned to check for pennies in the in cab linkage, and check your hoses for sag.
Apr 3, 2012, 06:47 AM
#20
Sheptrans responded right away with suggestions to troubleshoot. I had a buddy come over and shift while I was under hood. Looks like the upper IC and hoses sagged a bit with my IM and TB work noted in other threads. This cause the shift linkage that needs to raise up for reverse to just barely touch the bottom of the Uturn hose to the recirc valve.
For those that have the stock path for the upper IC, this won't make much sense but the aftermarket ones that require mini battery or battery relocation get close to the space for the shift linkages on top of the trans. I had just completely thorough boost leak testing and all the clamping and removal and retightening somehow shifted the height of the hoses just a 1/4 inch. Enough to physically block out reverse. Resolved the easy way. Cut 1/2 inch of the Uturn hose to the recirc valve.
I figured something didn't match, because when it did go in, it was fine, and the reverse lights came on as they should. So from these threads I learned to check for pennies in the in cab linkage, and check your hoses for sag.
For those that have the stock path for the upper IC, this won't make much sense but the aftermarket ones that require mini battery or battery relocation get close to the space for the shift linkages on top of the trans. I had just completely thorough boost leak testing and all the clamping and removal and retightening somehow shifted the height of the hoses just a 1/4 inch. Enough to physically block out reverse. Resolved the easy way. Cut 1/2 inch of the Uturn hose to the recirc valve.
I figured something didn't match, because when it did go in, it was fine, and the reverse lights came on as they should. So from these threads I learned to check for pennies in the in cab linkage, and check your hoses for sag.
-Jalal
Nov 19, 2012, 12:45 PM
#21
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Awesome thread MJ23FE, BUT please note that this back up light switch is only for a MR (6 Speed) Transmission. I bought it and am pretty upset that I had to buy another switch. So I have an extra MR backup light switch for sale if anyone needs one.
EVO IX's
MR (6 Speed) - MN132387
SE/GSR - (5 Speed) - MD730979
EVO IX's
MR (6 Speed) - MN132387
SE/GSR - (5 Speed) - MD730979
Nov 19, 2012, 12:57 PM
#22
Awesome thread MJ23FE, BUT please note that this back up light switch is only for a MR (6 Speed) Transmission. I bought it and am pretty upset that I had to buy another switch. So I have an extra MR backup light switch for sale if anyone needs one.
EVO IX's
MR (6 Speed) - MN132387
SE/GSR - (5 Speed) - MD730979
EVO IX's
MR (6 Speed) - MN132387
SE/GSR - (5 Speed) - MD730979
The screen shot of the service manual was for the 6-speed but I should have noted it.
I'd make a post in the for sale section to sell your 6-speed sensor.
-Jalal
Nov 19, 2012, 06:02 PM
#25
Diagnosis/Troubleshooting/backup light switch/EVOVIII
That is great this fixed it! I would like to extend a hand to anyone about what you should look at so no one throws random parts on the car, fuses, bulbs, and/or tearing apart your car trying to find an open or short.
The reverse switch is a momentary switch. What does this mean? When you have it in your hand you push the ball in and it closes the circuit and allows the current to flow through the circuit. When you let go of the ball, it opens the circuit and does not allow current to flow. On the car when the car is shifted into reverse the arm in the gearbox presses up, closing the circuit and allowing the current to flow.
Testing:
What makes you a technician, and what makes you a mechanic? Difference is knowing what you're doing, not guessing and hoping what may look bad is the real issue, but testing and having results that allow you to prove why something is inoperative.
Step 1.) Remove the reverse switch from your transmission. This will require a multimeter, which most people have some type, it does not need to be expensive at all, basic functions like continuity, volts, ohms, amps, etc. are fine.
Switch your multimeter to the continuity position. The reverse light switch has two terminals, take the read lead and place it on one terminal, take the black lead and place it on the other terminal. Press the switch in, if your meter beeps, this means your switch is good, and the contacts inside of it are doing their job allows the current to flow when the shifter is in reverse. Some meters may have a display that reads something instead of beeping.
Hope this helps a little bit to diagnosis a reverse light switch.
Eathen
The reverse switch is a momentary switch. What does this mean? When you have it in your hand you push the ball in and it closes the circuit and allows the current to flow through the circuit. When you let go of the ball, it opens the circuit and does not allow current to flow. On the car when the car is shifted into reverse the arm in the gearbox presses up, closing the circuit and allowing the current to flow.
Testing:
What makes you a technician, and what makes you a mechanic? Difference is knowing what you're doing, not guessing and hoping what may look bad is the real issue, but testing and having results that allow you to prove why something is inoperative.
Step 1.) Remove the reverse switch from your transmission. This will require a multimeter, which most people have some type, it does not need to be expensive at all, basic functions like continuity, volts, ohms, amps, etc. are fine.
Switch your multimeter to the continuity position. The reverse light switch has two terminals, take the read lead and place it on one terminal, take the black lead and place it on the other terminal. Press the switch in, if your meter beeps, this means your switch is good, and the contacts inside of it are doing their job allows the current to flow when the shifter is in reverse. Some meters may have a display that reads something instead of beeping.
Hope this helps a little bit to diagnosis a reverse light switch.
Eathen
Last edited by EVOEvolved; Nov 19, 2012 at 06:13 PM.
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uzumaki (Feb 18, 2020)
Nov 20, 2012, 03:48 PM
#27
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Not your fault at all. I appreciate the write up. I just did notice in the original post that you did say "Different part number for the 5 speed". I was so quick to buy and resolve the problem I didn't notice till I got the switch. LOL. Thanks again for the awesome write up. For some reason they won't let me post in the marketplace yet, but I have it posted on the TSE forums.
Last edited by cversoza; Nov 20, 2012 at 03:52 PM. Reason: Wasn't finished typing reply.
Nov 20, 2012, 03:50 PM
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Last edited by cversoza; Nov 20, 2012 at 03:54 PM.
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Jun 6, 2013, 11:06 PM
#30
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I just replaced mine today (VIII 5 speed). Two things good to know is there is a washer that's needed that will likely stick to the old sensor so make sure you reuse that or you won't be able to shift into reverse or 5th. Also don't over tighten or you will have the same problem. Before you put everything back together make sure to check if you can still shift normal. I didn't notice the washer till after I put everything back together and tried to shift, I figured I over tightened it so backed it off but still couldn't shift, I took a look and noticed the washer and put it on and it worked perfect. I did however slightly damage the sensor when attempting to shift into reverse without the washer. I couldn't find torque specs so I just hand tightened then a 1/8 of a turn with a rachet. If I don't have an issue with it coming loose I won't post again, but will post if I do. I'll check it in a week and see if its still good.