Very weird idle! (with video) PLEASE HELP!!!
What should the crank sensor ohms be at?
My wideband sensor is broken right now, I'm working on getting a new one soon!
I agree!... in a way...
My wideband sensor is broken right now, I'm working on getting a new one soon!
I agree!... in a way...
Ok, update!!!!
I first started my day off with making a handy dandy boost leak tester! It came out ver nice and it works awesome! I found 2 leaks! Im working on fixing them today and i will let everyone know if it fixes my problem!!!
I first started my day off with making a handy dandy boost leak tester! It came out ver nice and it works awesome! I found 2 leaks! Im working on fixing them today and i will let everyone know if it fixes my problem!!!
I fixed one leak witch was a very easy fix. The car still has the same problem though, it seem to be a little better. The other leak is the throttle body shaft seal. I ordered a MIL.SPEC seal and should be in sometime next week! Until then......
Not to hijack your thread man I just saw your vid on the tube and decided to post here... I have this problem presently and not sure what it is:
Car's running 15Hg Vac and boosting fine... no leaks to my knowladge and it drives great normally... Had a JDM MR valve without any issues either.
A/C on the idle is fine and also no issue when cold. Only when warm and drive for a while then it comes up or when i pull to a stop and shut off the A/C... then it idles like your vid. I tried cleaning the MAF and no luck. Thought the manifold gasket could have a leak but usig a lil "carb spray" trick I didn't find any...
I've read here and about and was told maybe cam sensor or ICV, but a failed cam sensor would cause the car to cut out completely correct? Also wouldn't an ICV failure cause the car to idle poorly with the A/C on and cold starting?
EDIT: Ok perhaps it really is the ICV... ust unplugged it and it idled much better.
Car's running 15Hg Vac and boosting fine... no leaks to my knowladge and it drives great normally... Had a JDM MR valve without any issues either.
A/C on the idle is fine and also no issue when cold. Only when warm and drive for a while then it comes up or when i pull to a stop and shut off the A/C... then it idles like your vid. I tried cleaning the MAF and no luck. Thought the manifold gasket could have a leak but usig a lil "carb spray" trick I didn't find any...
I've read here and about and was told maybe cam sensor or ICV, but a failed cam sensor would cause the car to cut out completely correct? Also wouldn't an ICV failure cause the car to idle poorly with the A/C on and cold starting?
EDIT: Ok perhaps it really is the ICV... ust unplugged it and it idled much better.
Last edited by MISHI; May 19, 2011 at 07:36 AM.
Mine sounds exactly the same - I have bigger cams but I do not (unfortuantely) know what they are cause the second owner didn't know either. Mine idles at 1000-1100 RPM and I have a weird buzzing noise that sounds like it's coming from the Intake/Injector area.
I called and talked to a Mitsu tech at the nearby dealership and he told me that one problem could be that whoever did the timing belt job didn't properly align the balance shaft.
To me that might be the cause of the buzzing, but my high idle I have yet to figure out what. I have heard that Mitsu's have pretty bad intake gaskets and that I should check that first - but easier things are boost leak checks (boost leak checker can be built with parts by your local Home Depot Racing warehouse!
haha) OR checking for vacuum leaks.
I called and talked to a Mitsu tech at the nearby dealership and he told me that one problem could be that whoever did the timing belt job didn't properly align the balance shaft.
To me that might be the cause of the buzzing, but my high idle I have yet to figure out what. I have heard that Mitsu's have pretty bad intake gaskets and that I should check that first - but easier things are boost leak checks (boost leak checker can be built with parts by your local Home Depot Racing warehouse!
haha) OR checking for vacuum leaks.
What was the first leak that was easy? I'm thinking at least one of mine is the stock BOV (without actually boost leak testing yet) and I am going to be getting the stock IX BOV shortly anyways,so that should eliminate that!
I checked that vacuum line that was behind the intake manifold that leads to the cannister and it was a bit loose... changed that out but no real difference for me, but is a good idea to change it.
I'm getting a used cam and IACV sensor this week and I'll replace the IACV first... hate having people ask me what brand of cams I installed...


