I'm still tryin to figure that out

 

more gas in idle

 

i say if it drives good after idle then your good!

 

Hey guy, sorry I haven't up dated in like a week or more, but I'm here now. I'm still in the prosses for fixing my boost leaks. I ordered the mil.spec shaft seals for the throtle body and when I attemped to install them I had a hard time and i ended up rushing to fast and breaking the new seal. A week ago I ordered another set and they should be in the mail today and I'll probably install them tonight.

As for what the cause is... I'm almost possitive it is a boost leak. After I fixed one of the two leaks I've found the car seems to be idling much better. Still rough, but better.

Until the next update,
Thanks for all the help everyone,
Ben

 

Another thing.... I HAVE STOCK CAMS =]

 

Hey man, double check all the rubber oring /grommet things on your fuel pump. I ended up having to replace a bunch of them not too long ago after 2 fuel pumps that weren't actually bad. Anyway, only reason I'm suggesting it is because i was also getting the crank angle sensor code despite the fact that it was actually bad o rings on my pump housing.

Check the pressure from the fuel pump if you can.

-Adam

 

Well it's the weekend: hopefully you'll get the gasket on and you should be fine.

I got my iacv sensor today but first thing I noticed... the one I have is different to the on on the VII... the part numbers show for the one I just received so I figure all are like it now (brown tip... the evo VII one is all black with a small protrusion)

Installed, and it idles GREAT... well, better than it was. Still has the lil quirky dip from time to time but it always had it.

BUT

Now if I turn on the A/C sometimes it works fine, then another time if I turn it on the RPM flies up to 2K and drops to normal, then even other times, when you turn it on it drops to 500rpm for about a second or so and then the IACV kicks in.

If it's off though it's a different story: Drove it for a bit then switched off the a/c... the car started surging(hunting or whatever they call it) then eventually settled back to idle. Drove further with the a/c off and occasionally it'll just hund for a few seconds and then suddenly drop to normal. I did the "per manual" procedure or parking the IACV (evoscan used) and adjusting the RPM... I had it at 800 but put it to 700 then reenabled the screw and let it idle for 10 mins...

Didn't do it much after but still hunts now and again and still rises / dips now and again with A/C enabled...

So I guess WIP.

 

welcome to my world i've got exactly the same problem but for now, we didn't notice any leaks with all the test...i love the sound but God Damn, i hate to have a problem to my car haha

here's the video : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sbf7zKuGonY


your topic is very helpful, i will check in the same way all of your step and maybe i will found a leak.... i hope it's a leak.... i don't want to buy a lot of pieces and make like a puzzle try and be disaspointed

make a few update and i hope you'll get back your old idle sound

 

well another thing to check too is to make sure your timing marks are on...if say for example your intake cam or exhaust cam slipped a tooth that can also cause a rough idle, not tryin to make you do more testing work then necessary, but since youve already gone through the basics, thats another thing worth a shot. Now whens the last time your replaced your plugs? Gapped them? that can be another thing causing a potential misfire..?

 

Thanks for the input, I'm still waiting for parts... idk why this transaction with Mil.spec is taking so long (13th day). I'm about to let them keep my 20$ for the new seal so I don't have to worry/wait for it anymore. I about 2 days away from buying a Works throttle body.

I'm sure that its nothing to do with my cams because I only does this sometimes. If it was a problem with my cams it would do it all the time. My plugs were replaced 5000-8000miles ago, gapped correctly. I'm going to looking into misfiring, because it is deffenitivly possible, but I also think it wouldn't be jumping back and forth from the problem if it was a misfire.

 

yeahhh but if it's missfire, he suppose to have a check engine code... ?

 

What about your BISS screw seal?

 

depends on the situation there are instances, where misfires can happen, which you can tell by lookin at a wideband on a car.. my car for example i have the p0300 code disabled in my ecu, since the 03s are known for poppin that code randomly.

 

The biss seal is good!

 

I finally got my parts in the mail lastnight! I installed it and put 90% of the parts back on. When I get home tonight I'm going to finish it up and run another boost leak test! Hopefully we will see some good results!

Thanks again for all the help everyone!