Why? The snap rings hold on the pulley and field core, not anything relating to pressure within the system.

 

As for the removal of it, you can leave the pulley on, and just pull the clutch out from inside? If so, that is great. Do you need a special tool to hold it while you remove the 14mm?

Once the 14mm is off, what is the best technique for pulling it off.

Thanks guys!

-Mark[/QUOTE]

The pulley does not need to come off. There is enough tension on the pulley that you should be able to break the 14mm nut loose. When removed pull the clutch off. There should be a shim on it when you pull the clutch off. If not check the shaft for it.

 

OK, I buzzed off my 14mm bolt using my impact driver, and the clutch came off like butter. Before I removed it, I measured, and my airgap was around .032". with it off, I found a very small shim, maybe .012" or so:



I removed it, put the clutch back on, drove the 14mm back on with my impact (didn't go to any specific torque, I just put it on tight, using the 18V impact driver I have). I re-measured, and the airgap was around .018", which is dead smack in the middle of where it should be. So, in my case, I do not need a shim.

Anyways, I start the car, press the A/C button, and check to see that it is not spinning I tried a few times, but no luck.

I took a few pictures of my clutch, and it's apparent that it is pretty rusty:



And so is the pulley it mounts too:



So here is my next question, what actually happens when you press the button. It works with magnetics, but what attracts to what? Is it possible that my clutch isn't properly engaging because it is too rusty?

Are there any moving parts that could be not moving, due to rust? I really don't know how this clutch system works here.

Thanks guys!

-mark

 

After cleaning the rust off using a rag, and a Brillo pad, and checking my air gap (.015), I am still unable to get my compressor to engage at all now. Even the tapping method is not working.

Could I have accidentally removed the clutch material, making it not grab at all, or is it just metal (no clutch friction material)?

 

Make sure you didn’t tighten it too tight. I originally drove it in with my impact and it didn’t go the first time around. after that I backed it out and that's when i realized that I hard warped my clutch. It would 360 and stop, I would give it a little tap and it would 360 and stop.

 

Mine is doin the same thing, tapping it works but it stops as soon as you turn it off and try to turn it back on. I guess this means I need to install a thinner shim? Any certain kinda shim? Thanks

 

MR315936 a/c service kit.

 

I didnt really wanna pay $25 for a shim...

 

Have you measured your air gap? It may not be a shim issue.

I have a perfect .014 gap now, and mine won't work at all. I am certain the clutch mechanism is bad now, most likely the electric coil. So, now I must swap that over from my spare, and see if that fixes it. What a pain in the ***

 

I am not sure what you warped, it's a solid piece of 1/8" steel. Any chance the shim was just not mounted flush?

Also, it's mounting onto a bearing, so I don't even know how over-tightening affects it. This whole unit is confusing, and probably going to cost me even more since I am learning on it,

 

i havent checked the air gap, but it runs fine when I tap it, until I turn the A/C off and back on, and if i tap it again it starts spinning instantly

 

have you checked if your coil is working? hook it up against +12 volts and see it it's magnetized...

 

That's next, it's just very difficult to do on the car, and I don't want to discharge my system. I need to get in there and test it though!

 

I was hoping that the coil would become magnetized with the car not running, but it only activates the coil while running, so this makes it tough to diagnose.

 

Replaced the shim and my a/c working like new