I got the pump 6 days ago from MAP.......I was loving every min of it.....6th day here's my problem. Was running great, driving to work today I feel a hiccup. Then the car dies. Pull to the side of the road and try to start it, no luck, just turns over for a second and dies. Let it sit for about 10mins and then it starts. Call MAP and was told no worries it has a 3 year warranty. So I call DW...I explained that when I was changing out my old pump I pulled the ground wire out. They advised that it sounded like a wiring issue. I pulled the pump and replaced the ground wire. Started fine. Ugh, on the way home same hicup, bucking, and then back on the shoulder. Checked power to the pump, good to go. Pulled up the sending unit and checked that the pump was working! Still no start....called AAA Get home and turn the key, guess what it STARTED! Anybody got any ideas that I can try out.

New sending unit..new OEM rubber part. I didn't use the two O rings that came with the pump...DW stated that since I was using the OEM part that it wasn't needed.

 

You positive that you don't have a short somewhere?

Otherwise... perhaps there's some form of blockage in the system that once the pump pressurizes it pushes something into the way that blocks fuel, but once it has a minute to settle with no pressure, it allows fuel through again?

Maybe try the o rings? Fuel could be slipping through that gap under pressure and just not providing enough fuel I guess?

Really just thinking out loud m8...

 

I had a car that did this. Would run for awhile, take a dump, sit for awhile then fire back up and roll (for awhile). Found out the fuel pump was overheating from not having a full tank of gas to keep it cool. This doesn't apply to all, just throwing it out there.
After two pump changes, got one that wouldn't overheat and was good to go.

Sounds like something is being overtaxed. Fuel pump relay could be bad/overheating?

 

Picked up one from mitsu today. I'll let you guys know. Thanks for the input!

 

Yeah keep me posted m8! Interested to hear how this sorts out.

 

So when it died and you checked it for power, you said you were "good to go", so I assume you were getting power. When it died and you tried to start it up, could you hear the pump priming? Reason I ask is without more details your situation sounds very similar to ckp (crank position sensor) going bad.

 

Sounds like either fuel pump problem or like Tommi said crank or cam sensor going out.

 

damn man hate to hear it

 

Relay, problem??????........one of the three relays??????...hard wired....no more voltage drops. Also drilled out the plastic part with the two rubber hoses attached to it. it's part of the sending unit. Very small inside dia.
Thanks people for the ideas!

 

It's a problem with the DW300's. They refuse (most of them at least) to run when they get heat into them. Cool it down, like you did, and they work until they get heated again.

I'd suggest another pump.

 

Why not swap your original stock pump back in, or a new Wally(they are cheap enough), and see if this cures your problem? Do like a lot of guys do and carry a spare pump around in your glove compartment. Send the pump in question back to DW for inspection, replacement or a refund.

 

Hard wired is much more better! Glad you fixed it.

 

Now since I've hard wired it, is it going to over heat? What the hell.

 

Do you actually know what you did by doing this or did you just do this because you thought it was too small?

Evos have a saddle tank due to the driveshaft so most of the gas is stored in the main part of the tank where the pump sits on the driver's side but the rest is stored on the passenger side. There is a hump in the middle that goes about 1/2 way down (think like motorcycle saddlebags but one side holes about 2x as much). Once gas goes below that line there is a fuel line that connects one side of the tank to the other to allow gas to be pulled from the passenger side to the driver's side. If you drill that hole bigger without knowing what you're doing you will leave yourself stranded on the side of the road with gas in your tank (your gauge will read 1/4-1/3 generally, that's what the passenger side holds) but that gas will be in the wrong side of the tank because the gas flowing back into the tank creates a suction to pull that gas over to feed the pump. In essence your car will act like it's out of gas and just die on your but your gauge will show gas.

Are you SURE this isn't what you've done? It sounds like all your issues could be related to said drilling. The ONLY time drilling this hole bigger (and I'm talking maybe 1/64 of an inch bigger but can't remember exactly, it's a tiny amount) has ever been necessary is when people are running dual pumps that are both on 100% of the time, otherwise it screws up your fueling system.

 

Working great........used a full tank so far. Also it was drilled out after the problem. really has no control over the passenger side of the tank.