Changing the alternator
Aug 11, 2011, 07:59 PM
#16
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Get some 
, you and your friend will need 'em. I followed service manual, wouldn't recomend. My stepdad, who taught me wrenchin' on V-8 stockcars, took a look and said this was beyond me, but no one else around could do it either, so I jumped. EvoM write-ups are packed with knowledge, and can help you with any nightmare Evo project. Welcome aboard, hope you can enjoy your Evo soon!
Aug 21, 2011, 03:11 PM
#19
Just as an alternate(no pun intended) I installed/removed from the top. I removed my intake mani and fuel rail as one piece. Disconnected battery next, removed connectors on alternator, one plug
and one 10/12mm bolt with another connector. loosened main bolt, didn't completely remove still need to go down and remove tension from belt. 1/2" drive turn tensioner clockwise enough to line up holes to hold tensioner in place(Allen wrench)...on Josip your passenger side wheel is already off at this point as well as car being jacked up.
This way took me about 1.5 hrs total
and one 10/12mm bolt with another connector. loosened main bolt, didn't completely remove still need to go down and remove tension from belt. 1/2" drive turn tensioner clockwise enough to line up holes to hold tensioner in place(Allen wrench)...on Josip your passenger side wheel is already off at this point as well as car being jacked up.
This way took me about 1.5 hrs total
Have fun and good luck either way you go.
Sep 10, 2011, 01:28 PM
#23
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FYI, I just replaced my alternator last week. All we had to do is remove the strut bar, lift the car up to remove the bottom bolt, let it down and wiggle the alternator out. Took us about an hour to replace it. Just be patient.
Sep 12, 2011, 04:58 PM
#27
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I would think the top would be the easiest even if having to taking off the intake mani but I've only done it when putting my motor back in. Since you didnt have a core would you wanna sell me 1 or 2 of those long 8mm bolts that hold the alternator cases together? I noticed all of mine were OUT and not even threaded in anymore, I got them all threaded back in but still missing one or two, I'll pay for s&h...no bid deal if you dont want to, message me if you do
May 21, 2014, 01:38 PM
#28
Hmmm pulled mine through the bottom....already had an axle seal leak and a ripped cv boot so this was the logical route. The cv grease got all over the alternator so I thought I had a bad alternator when I kept getting a battery light. Took the alternator to a local shop who claims it is still good upon a physical inspection. I am no expert but how will they know if it is still good or not without bench checking it? Im going to be pissed if I put it back in and still end up with a batt light.
May 21, 2014, 04:09 PM
#29
EvoM Community Team Leader
Hmmm pulled mine through the bottom....already had an axle seal leak and a ripped cv boot so this was the logical route. The cv grease got all over the alternator so I thought I had a bad alternator when I kept getting a battery light. Took the alternator to a local shop who claims it is still good upon a physical inspection. I am no expert but how will they know if it is still good or not without bench checking it? Im going to be pissed if I put it back in and still end up with a batt light.
May 21, 2014, 04:46 PM
#30
I had same thing happened with mine when I first got it a few years back, cleaned the grease immediately but when I bench tested it it still tested bad so I pulled it apart and everything looked good even though it was bad. I would just replace it because it's a lot easier to go down and out than to put everything back and find out it is bad and have to take it all apart again or go up and out with it. But if you can bench test it that would tell u if it's good or not for sure.
Last edited by jason42003; May 21, 2014 at 06:53 PM.
