Biggiesacks

I am pretty sure Auto zone can bench test it for you for free.

Jeepyedo

I will be pulling mine out this weekend. It's over charging putting out 14.5 volts to 15.9 so I am thinking and hoping its the alternator and will be replacing it. I think im going to remove it from the top under the intake.

barneyb

Check the voltage with a quality meter because 14.5 is normal and 15.9 is a little high. A slightly inaccurate meter could put you through unnecessary work.

Biggiesacks

+1 on verifying the voltage, also make sure you are doing it with the system under load. Turn on the headlights, AC etc. Verify your battery is in good shape, if it isnt sealed make sure the cells have water.

Jeepyedo

Well this was done by a friend who is a mechanic at a shop. We used a battery tester and tested the battery under a load and it passed, but when we tested the alternator it was high so with the issues I've been having he thinks the alternator is not regulating itself since its internally regulated.




What happened was while driving down the freeway all the electronic dash lights ect. started to dim and the engine started sputtering and eventually died while going 70mph. I got a jump and it fired right up drove a quarter of a mile and it died same way again. tried turning it over but had no electrical power. Tried to push start it and no luck do to no power. Charged the battery all night and it fired right up but the battery light keeps flickering the moment I hit the brake pedal or turn the lights on anything that might draw power.
Since the alternator for these cars charges the battery to maintain voltage for storage and also provides power to the ecu ect. while driving I'm hoping its the alternator so I will be replacing it this weekend and I hope that fixes the issue. Feel free to give me your input on this. Thanks

njboy

iTrader: (1)

So what's the consensus here. Pop the axle out? Seems like the " easiest" way to go. Dislike disturbing pipes and tubes due to making leaks etc.

Biggiesacks

I know im answering you in two places but just to restate what i said in the other sub. It could be that the voltage the alternator is putting out could be high, but since that was on a test bench and not on the car that doesn't really diagnose the problem. You aren't having over voltage problems, quite the opposite. High voltage will still charge the battery, and run the car. 16v is within the cars electrical system tolerance. What is more likely is that either the contact from the alternator to the battery is bad or you have a serious grounding issue.

Measure the resistance between the lug on the alternator and the battery. It should be ~0 (depending on how good your meter is you might get some milli ohms) but it should be very low. Two things dont add up though tested good battery that is dead and charging voltage coming from the alternator. It might be a little high but it certainly wouldn't cause a battery to go dead.

P.S. Have you done anything with your gauge cluster? There is a resistor inside of the factory gauge cluster that is required for the alternator to work.

evo8426

iTrader: (27)

I did it through the top, lifted the engine slightly on the passenger side with floor jack. Didn't have to remove anything but the front passenger wheel.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Bump. I will be trying it like this first, then removing the axle, if needed. I have an engine hoist, so plan to remove the passenger mount, then bring the engine forward and up as much as reasonably possible. I just don't like losing fluids, so it's preference, for me.

I assume my alternator is my problem as well, but will report back. My symptoms:

1. Driving on the fwy at 70mph, the car starts running crappy. The dash/cluster lights seemed dim, but I thought I was imagining things. Maybe not, but I couldn't even read the mileage with the brightness turned all the way up. Battery and oil light are flickering. I put the car into neutral while slowing on the offramp and car dies. I pop the clutch to get it going again and it's fine the whole way home and to my friend's shop the next day. Until I go to leave. Then:
3. While idling, the car likes to randomly go lean. Fuel pump not getting enough juice?
Note: for about two years now, the car has idled very lean at warm start up. like 18-19:1, for a few seconds, then settle to normal. Possibly related?
4. We tested voltage and it was good, but voltage is only half the story. We used a clamp-on amp meter that also said things look okay. This was with high beams on, the heater, and radio. The day it died on my way home I was using headlights, stereo, front and rear defrost, and wipers.
5. When I turn on my lights, the car goes lean for a few secs and slightly lean, occasionally (possibly when cool down fan comes on).
6. When I roll the windows up, if I hold the switch in the "up" position after the windows are all the way closed, the car goes lean until I let go.
7. I recently had to replace a relatively new dry cell battery. It worked fine for a while, then stopped holding a charge. It would only last a day or two before needing a jump. After sitting over night, I couldn't even flash a ROM. Did the battery cause the alternator to die? Did a bad alternator cause a dead battery? Is the alternator even dead? We'll see.

I do have a mini battery, but it's the same one i used before without any problems. I'm trying to remember if we tested the new battery but eh well... I already have a brand-new OEM alternator on the way. May as well use it. Worst case scenario, I end up with a working spare.

Biggiesacks

Your symptoms sound like they could be a grounding problem too. If you haven't already, check / clean your grounds for tightness and corrosion, paying extra attention to the chassis to battery grounds, and the engine to chassis ground.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I did check those first. Everything seems cool. It was actually my first thought, since it only affected me on the freeway but for the most part. I did find this and remove it LOL :

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

I highly advise against changing the alternator from the top. Unless you have no ABS or AC, it's a pain in the *** and after doing it both ways (axle method and top) I strongly prefer pulling it from the bottom.

You actually end up scratching and gashing up everything in the area when doing it from the top, this was even after removing the oil dip stick tube, strut bar, the passenger side motor mount, front motor mount, and jacking the motor up, pulling towards the front. There just isn't enough good clearance. The ABS controller, metal AC line, Intake Manifold, the MIVEC solenoid (if you have a IX), and back of the valve cover if you're not careful, all take a beating. When it was all said and done, the alternator fell into place, but it just felt so wrong doing it like that.

-pal215

kaj

iTrader: (60)

So, I assume it doesn't come out the driver side, with the battery removed?

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

I never thought about that actually! If your intake manifold doesn't have that black support bracket behind it, there might be a chance. If you try it and it ends up being pie, let us know haha.

That would save everyone a lot of future trouble

-pal215

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I removed my bracket when I put the engine together. I'll give it a shot and see how it goes. May as well.