I went for inspection on Friday with the evo, and it's been driving fine (more or less) so I didn't think it would fail, especially since NJ basically only checks emissions now. However, it failed inspection.

The ecu threw two codes:
P0401 - exhaust gas recirc flow insufficient detected
P0134 - front o2 sensor malfunction

On top of that, the service engine soon light did not illuminate, so I failed for that as well. The local mitsu dealer has the bulb ($3) but I have to figure out a time I can go pick it up. So I looked into the codes and turns out most of the time this happens because the vac line on the egr valve pops off and throws **** all out of whack. I also recently got new tb shaft seals and a new tb gasket so I figured I'd rebuild the tb while I'm looking things over. Turns out the vac line on the egr valve was in fact off so I put it back on and zip tied it. I rebuilt the tb and installed an open air filter in place of the factory air box. Put it all back together and the throttle would stick somewhere around the 5% mark. So it would idle around 1500RPM unless I tapped the gas then it would go down. This same thing happened last time I rebuilt the TB...I apparently just suck at it.

So today I took the TB off and cleaned the **** out of it making sure everything was in place and put back together correctly. This time I also unplugged the battery to reset all the fuel trims and ecu codes. I let the black RTV dry for like 25 minutes then let it get to operating temp. The throttle didn't seem to stick at all and was idling around 1000RPM or so. So I went for a drive and it seemed ok. After driving, when coming to a stop it would idle around 1100 RPM, but when I turn the car off, then on it would idle at like 900 RPM initially. When I got the car in the garage I was letting it idle around 1100RPM and checked the throttle by hand and moved it like a 1000th of an inch and the idle went down to like 1000RPM. The plate moves freely and doesn't appear to be stuck, so I'm wondering if this is now a TPS issue. I used white out to mark its location both times when rebuilding the TB, so it should be exactly where it was before.

Additionally, I went to Autozone today and had them read any codes, and there were none. Plus now with the vac line plugged, the boost gauge needle seems much more steady than it used to be. It used to get jittery at idle around -15, now its fairly solid around -19. When I give it full or near full throttle it seems to be pulling timing, but that could just be me. I have no way to indicate that. I don't have a wideband or tactrix cable, but my apexi turbo timer reads the o2 sensor voltage from the ecu. At idle it seems to oscillate as per normal, but on decel, the voltage goes to around 18, then after a few seconds down to like 0.02. I forget which is rich and which is lean, but it doesn't seem right.

Lastly, the bov flutters (its louder now with the open air filter), but I think that might be because it's a crushed 1g bov and it might just be too stiff for my stock boost levels and low boost blow offs.

Unfortunately I don't have any money for a wideband or a tactrix cable at the moment. So I was hoping to get some advice on things I can troubleshoot with basic tools and a multimeter for right now to try to get it running right again. I will do a boost leak test the next chance I get.

 

I would suggest getting evoscan. I cleaned and replaced my tb shaft seals because I was having throttle hang and had to adjust the tps sensor after I reinstalled the tb. Using evoscan I was able to adjust the tps to the right % while the car was idling.

I have gone through all the typical problems with the egr/tb/iac. I removed the entire egr and fuel evap system earlier this year and think that it's well worth doing.

 

I had the P0401 code and it turned out that a hose had come unplugged from the side of the egr valve. I just plugged it back in and cleared the code, good as new.

I would definitely suggest a boost leak test, although you did say you just replaced the Tb shaft seals (which would be my first guess), just to be sure.

 

Yea, the P0401 was definitely because the vac line to the egr valve came off. The last boost leak test showed leaks at the TB, which is why i got new seals and replaced. I will do another boost leak test soon.

I just realized that bov flutter is usually caused by a vacuum leak, not a boost leak. If I remember correctly, a vacuum leak will not provide enough suction to open the valve in the bov fully to vent the extra air, so it flutters. So either I have another vacuum leak somewhere, or the bov is too tight for this low psi.

 

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. +1 on that boost leak test. I just passed inspection the other day in NJ with no problem. (Without them knowing about a few things ) I live local to you so if you need any tools including a tactrix cable with evoscan, boost leak tester and so on... Give me a shout!

 

Thanks man! Sicklerville is about 30-35 mins away from me I believe.

Vacuum leaks are so damn hard to track down unfortunately. I have a boost leak tester, but I want to make a better one soon. I'm going to try and track down a used tactrix cable to just buy so I can do some troubleshooting and tuning.

For now, though as long as those codes don't come back and I can get this light bulb from mitsu, I can hopefully pass inspection before the month is up!

 

Here are some updates (copied from another forum)
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Couple minor updates:

The idle seems to have settled a bit more now and usually hovers around 800-900 RPM. I still plan on doing a boost leak and vacuum leak test this weekend.

I picked up the stupid $3 light bulb that illuminates the CEL light. Going to install that tonight or tomorrow and see if its still throwing codes. Then I will go for inspection on Friday.

Have a couple possible leads on a used tactrix cable on the evom forums. What's the difference between 1.3 and 2.0??

Car still feels sluggish at WOT. It feels as though its either a decent sized boost leak, pulling timing, or just terrible AFRs. I'm hoping to log when I get a cable.

Sometimes when the car shuts off (after turbo timer runs), the fan stays running for a few seconds. I don't think I ever noticed this before.

Can I just get this cable (new): http://www.evoscan.com/evoscan-gps-o...alogging-cable

And get evoscan ($20) to log and ecuflash ($free) to flash new roms? This would be less than $80 new and I can afford this.

I replaced the cel bulb, the old one was burnt out. Then I also realized like four other bulbs were missing in the cluster...haha wtf? I have to order like 5 more. But at least I should pass inspection now.

Cel came on during my drive to work this morning, ****. I'll check it after work today.

 

Passed inspection today!

 

Ok so the cel went on again and I got it checked at autozone. This time it only came up with the code for the front o2 sensor which I'm guessing means its on it's way out. It all might be psychological but it does seem like the car is running like **** lately and the a/f ratio the Turbo timer shows seem a bit off. Granted its not super accurate but still. Anyway a new sensor is like $300! So I'm going to see if my extended warranty will cover it first. If not, anyone know where I can get a better price? Or a slightly used one??

 

I just got my smog done yesterday and p0134 threw on me too. I am in the same boat as you.

 

I forgot to update the thread here. I picked up the OE Bosch o2 sensor from RockAuto.com for like $140 versus the $300+ that Autozone/Advanced Auto/Napa wanted for the part. They also carried other brands like Denso that were much cheaper, like $70! It was a major pain in the *** though to get the sensor out!

 

Did it fix your problem with the cel? I thought oe was a denso sensor? EHhh... I dont want to think about taking the dang sensor out. I called Mitsu today, they wanted 470. crazy expensive, I wonder if any shops on this forum carry it for under 300 LOL.

 

I could have sworn it was BOSCH, but either way, they both do the same thing. And yes, it cleared my codes and the car runs a million times better now and gets better gas mileage. I'm averaging like ~26mpg these days.

 

Nice, ima order mine today from somewhere... my car wont let me pass 40mph at all on fith gear.... sux *****.

 

I highly recomment RockAuto.com. Prices are superb and shipping is pretty fast.

Some advice for replacing the o2 sensor (if you plan on doing it yourself)

1) [MOST IMPORTANT] give yourself A LOT OF TIME! This took me a good 7 hours just because I kept having trouble getting it out and tried new things
2) Get a propane torch. If you can't get it loose and start stripping it, a pair of vice grips and a good heat source should do the trick. But use this as a last resort as it can warp your o2 housing. Also, DO NOT do this while it's on the car!
3) To make things easier, I would recomment removing the radiator/fan, heat shields, and just removing the o2 housing from the car from the get go. Set it up on a work bench and lather it up in PB blaster for a couple hours before trying to get it out.