evo 4 afm
did everything was running awesome not rough idle engine not rocking about put old intake back on. put water feed to turbo clip on "had came off" wtf? did the reset. was driving good this morning then when i went out this after noon it nearly cut out going around a round about at 40ks. then ran ****ed up again. then when i got home it was idling bumpy slightly i think the air flow meter is stuffed its used a heap of fuel today to. then i had it idling on drive way and turned it off turbo timer kicked in and it nearly died 3 times within 30secs the hks turbo timer is set to. im getting to the point with this thing that im going to selling it and get the early version again i never had any problems with my evo2 or 1.8ltr gsr turbo.. im happy that the spark plugs have stopped the popping and bull ****. but this random cutting out then coming back on is crazy like first thing in the morning you cannot just drive of from cold as it will have no power! and you have to quickly clutch to stop it stalling. i all ways warm up except when im in a hurry ie late for work
This may also explain why the plugs in the motor were so cold. This motor was likely modified with a significant tune, and put back to stock to sell. Did you buy it private party, or from a dealer? The private party may have some insight? Otherwise, you'll need to take it to a tuner and have them sort it for you?
Haha... you said you have done a boost leak test with an air compressor m8? It sounds like you're hitting fuel cut which will happen if the car leans out too much, so maybe you're boost is turned up too high, or you're having fuel issues somewhere along the way?
This may also explain why the plugs in the motor were so cold. This motor was likely modified with a significant tune, and put back to stock to sell. Did you buy it private party, or from a dealer? The private party may have some insight? Otherwise, you'll need to take it to a tuner and have them sort it for you?
This may also explain why the plugs in the motor were so cold. This motor was likely modified with a significant tune, and put back to stock to sell. Did you buy it private party, or from a dealer? The private party may have some insight? Otherwise, you'll need to take it to a tuner and have them sort it for you?
Also, just because your car is making its stock boost doesn't mean you don't have a boost leak.
The turbine doesn't care how fast it spins, because the wastegate is controlling it based on pressure. In your case, metric BAR. So if there's a leak, the turbine won't actually "know" and will just spin faster until it overcomes this leak and the motor receives as much boost as it knows its supposed to. At this point the wastegate will open and prevent over boosting.
On top of that, if your vehicle was modified, and returned to stock without changing the tune, the motor may actually boosting at a completely improper level which is causing the roughness.
You can realistically do a boost leak test with a bicycle pump, though with a leak, it will be very difficult to actually do that.
I'd suggest finding someone with a compressor and a boost leak tester, or getting one yourself. Pressurizing the system to around 1 bar, and listen for leaks. Find them (you WILL have them, whether they're causing the problem or not) and fix them. THEN spray every connection with soapy water and SEE if you have any still, and repair those. Reset the ECU again, and see where that gets you.
I would suggest getting rid of that turbo timer as its just another variable that is obviously not working properly. Once you have the problem sorted, you can reinstall it correctly and know that it isn't fubaring everything.
Also, just because your car is making its stock boost doesn't mean you don't have a boost leak.
The turbine doesn't care how fast it spins, because the wastegate is controlling it based on pressure. In your case, metric BAR. So if there's a leak, the turbine won't actually "know" and will just spin faster until it overcomes this leak and the motor receives as much boost as it knows its supposed to. At this point the wastegate will open and prevent over boosting.
On top of that, if your vehicle was modified, and returned to stock without changing the tune, the motor may actually boosting at a completely improper level which is causing the roughness.
You can realistically do a boost leak test with a bicycle pump, though with a leak, it will be very difficult to actually do that.
I'd suggest finding someone with a compressor and a boost leak tester, or getting one yourself. Pressurizing the system to around 1 bar, and listen for leaks. Find them (you WILL have them, whether they're causing the problem or not) and fix them. THEN spray every connection with soapy water and SEE if you have any still, and repair those. Reset the ECU again, and see where that gets you.
Also, just because your car is making its stock boost doesn't mean you don't have a boost leak.
The turbine doesn't care how fast it spins, because the wastegate is controlling it based on pressure. In your case, metric BAR. So if there's a leak, the turbine won't actually "know" and will just spin faster until it overcomes this leak and the motor receives as much boost as it knows its supposed to. At this point the wastegate will open and prevent over boosting.
On top of that, if your vehicle was modified, and returned to stock without changing the tune, the motor may actually boosting at a completely improper level which is causing the roughness.
You can realistically do a boost leak test with a bicycle pump, though with a leak, it will be very difficult to actually do that.
I'd suggest finding someone with a compressor and a boost leak tester, or getting one yourself. Pressurizing the system to around 1 bar, and listen for leaks. Find them (you WILL have them, whether they're causing the problem or not) and fix them. THEN spray every connection with soapy water and SEE if you have any still, and repair those. Reset the ECU again, and see where that gets you.
hey man thanks for the help hard to find anyone who really cares these's day's. i can here when car is running a leak somewhere behind the throttle body just hard to find like you said without doing the boost leak test im going to invest in a compressor maybe this week. and i do agree with what you said about the turbo as it will no matter what make up for the diffidence in boost as the waste gate opens. i will keep you up to date on this. on i noticed that the needle on the boost gauge is now jumping up and down again. it was not doing that when i first done the spark change and reset. so im guessing there is a leak somewhere could even be a intercooler hose as they have done 108ks now
The throttle body shaft seals on the Evo 4+ are generally regarded as leaky. So that could be it. Mellonracing.com is a tuning outfit here in the states that actually handles a fair amount of 5th gen Evos (4-6) so they may be able to offer some assistance with tuning or replacement uprated shaft seals if you can't get them in AUS. Though I'm sure someone has to have something there.
Have you popped onto lancerregister at all? Perhaps one of those chaps can lend you a hand if they're local?
Yeah m8, no worries. Many people upgrade their piping couplers with silicone couplings. I'm sure you can find a local supplier, but in the states one popular one is siliconeintakes.com. I'd also recommend using some t-bolt clamps instead of the stock worm gear clamps. There's a kit and a diagram on that site, but only for the newer evos. They also sell boost leak testers so you can see what they look like and make one yourself if necessary.
The throttle body shaft seals on the Evo 4+ are generally regarded as leaky. So that could be it. Mellonracing.com is a tuning outfit here in the states that actually handles a fair amount of 5th gen Evos (4-6) so they may be able to offer some assistance with tuning or replacement uprated shaft seals if you can't get them in AUS. Though I'm sure someone has to have something there.
Have you popped onto lancerregister at all? Perhaps one of those chaps can lend you a hand if they're local?
The throttle body shaft seals on the Evo 4+ are generally regarded as leaky. So that could be it. Mellonracing.com is a tuning outfit here in the states that actually handles a fair amount of 5th gen Evos (4-6) so they may be able to offer some assistance with tuning or replacement uprated shaft seals if you can't get them in AUS. Though I'm sure someone has to have something there.
Have you popped onto lancerregister at all? Perhaps one of those chaps can lend you a hand if they're local?
ok another update, took car out yesterday morning drove sweet as no problems. started it up around 530pm and started to splutter and **** then engine light came on and wouldn't go of so i turned it of and took other car. my partner put car in shed and the engine light as of again? very strange!!!
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