Purchased a greddy type s bov for one of my galant vr4's before I had my evo. Was told the bov had the evo single-spring mod done to it. Besically its just removing the inner spring because with both in, the evo has a tendency to kill at times? Went to the website he linked me to to check it out and it seems to make sense but what to verify this is a real problem with these bov's . Has anyone on here had to do this mod to make their car idle at all times? If this mod necessary? Thanks for any info!

 

The real problem would be venting it to atmosphere. That's why it stalls.

 

Not doing that! I know better than that to try that on a stock set-up.

 

I recirculated and would still stall with both springs in. Very dangerous since the car would always stall with the car moving at a high rate of speed.

 

I was stalling with both springs in and recirculated. I did the single spring mod and adjusted the set screw. The car drives perfectly with no stalling.

 

Good information, guys! Thanks much! Limp noodle, how far out did you adjust the set screw? Approximately how many turns would you say?

 

I've had the type s for a year now and it never sounded off correctly, it sounded like the stock at anything over 5psi, and it would sometimes compressor surge. I t'd off the boost controller line (turbo to boost controller) and hooked up a 1/8 in line from the t to the bottom port on the type s, and it sounded off perfectly even at high boost (top set screw is set to 6 threads). Also both springs are inside.

It was then leaking under boost, wouldn't hold over 15 and would taper down to 12. During a boost leak test it would open as well, so I took it apart (super easy just make sure you hold down the purple cap when removing the allen head bolts). I noticed that the diaphragm (black rubber piece) was ripped so I took some black rtv and coated the inside of the rip and the outside (the metal circle piece inside the diaphragm comes out). I let it dry for 24 hours (full cure time) then re-assembled it. I also cleaned/polished the inside of the bov and put a thin coat of oil on the shaft. Now it holds boost and sounds off perfectly!

To summarize:
1. T off the turbo to boost controller line and connect the lower port of the type s to the T.

2. Open the BOV and see if the diaphragm is ripped,
- you can try and repair it with
RTV http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...usted-diafragm

-or buy a new diaphragm for $80. http://www.shopgreddy.com/turbocharg...placement.html

3. Clean the inside of the bov

4. Reassemble the bov (keep both springs)

5. Try setting the adjustment screw to 6 threads sticking out from the top of the nut.

 

I just got rid of my type S on my evo, i had no clueee how much that thing was leaking untill i pressure tested and swapped bovs. I changed it for a APS (highly reccomended) the car feelss sooooo much better spools much faster, betwee. Shifts feel way more crisp, and def picked up the power i was supposed to have. I reccomend getting a new bov asap