wtf was mitsu thinking/need help
wtf was mitsu thinking/need help
removing my blown struts and springs. was stuck on the front passenger side lower strut bolt previously due to this issue. and now stuck on the driver side top strut bolt (camber bolt)
why did they make the threads on the bolts holding the strut to the knuckle so long?
the section outlined in orange is where im pretty sure is binding up.
the WHOLE section in yellow SHOULD have been engineered to have a smooth outer diameter as it sits inside of a smooth bore that im sure deals with alot of movement.
the section in blue is what they actually made smooth. i have no f*ing clue as to how come they did this. and not the whole yellow section
its binding around the orange section. im guessing this because on the front passenger side, the same bolt, but the lower one was stuck as well. i was able to use a long breaker bar and a bunch of pb blaster with an up and down motion in small incriments to spin it and finally after hours, break it free. the bolt had a good amount of rust on it even though im sure i put a bunch of anti seize when i reinstalled them (rear bolts had a bunch left over). and the threads are also worn down and chewed up in that orange section of the bolt.
the top however cannot spin due to the cam on the bolt to adjust for camber. with the lower bolt removed on the same side the strut can wiggle in and out towards and away from the car so its loose but the threads seem to have cut into the bore of the knuckle or the holes of the strut.
so now im stuck. ive tried to hammer it out, ive tried to torch at it. and so far nothing is working. soooooo frustrating and all mitsu had to do was to engineer a bolt correctly.
why did they make the threads on the bolts holding the strut to the knuckle so long?
the section outlined in orange is where im pretty sure is binding up.
the WHOLE section in yellow SHOULD have been engineered to have a smooth outer diameter as it sits inside of a smooth bore that im sure deals with alot of movement.
the section in blue is what they actually made smooth. i have no f*ing clue as to how come they did this. and not the whole yellow section
its binding around the orange section. im guessing this because on the front passenger side, the same bolt, but the lower one was stuck as well. i was able to use a long breaker bar and a bunch of pb blaster with an up and down motion in small incriments to spin it and finally after hours, break it free. the bolt had a good amount of rust on it even though im sure i put a bunch of anti seize when i reinstalled them (rear bolts had a bunch left over). and the threads are also worn down and chewed up in that orange section of the bolt.
the top however cannot spin due to the cam on the bolt to adjust for camber. with the lower bolt removed on the same side the strut can wiggle in and out towards and away from the car so its loose but the threads seem to have cut into the bore of the knuckle or the holes of the strut.
so now im stuck. ive tried to hammer it out, ive tried to torch at it. and so far nothing is working. soooooo frustrating and all mitsu had to do was to engineer a bolt correctly.
Put back the nut on the bolt just to protect the threads and continue hammering at it,it will break loose from impact and the vibration or you might have to completely remove the fork and lay it on a flat surface and start hammering the hell out of it.There is no turning back as you said some damage is already done to the bolt.
I had such a PITA with this too. You do have it (the whole assembly not just the car) jacked up a bit right? I remember having the car jacked up, the whole assembly right behind the rotor jacked up a tiny bit, and having to pull the rotor towards me (away from the car) car some and was still worried it was going to damage the threads as I had to spin it out.
But yeah, pretty silly all around..
But yeah, pretty silly all around..
