Clutch choices...
Clutch choices...
Hey guys so looking to buy a competition clutch and flywheel? what are peoples opinions on this? does it lockout like ACT does? just looking for a good dd clutch that will hold 450+ torque. and something i can use at the track now and again. Everyone post their opinions because i dont have money for a Twin disk. just wondering what i should go with
depends on your budget, and how you intend on using the clutch. holding 450 tq is completely different then holding 450 tq while in a race environment. what is your budget (everything, clutch, flywheel, labor or DIY etc) ?
I have a clutchmasters stage 3 on my car. CM isnt widely used here, more so in honda-land. I didnt want to risk lock out with the ACT, couldnt afford a twin disk. Im only making 350+ but its rated 110% over stock, cant remember the numbers but its over 500. (IIRC)
car is no just my DD, but used to DD all year, AutoX, and road course. had it on since 20k miles, and am at 65 now and still drives great even in DC traffic (kill me).
its all personal opinion, but for a DD or regular usage car i would stay away from pucked clutches. read reviews online and decide for yourself which application suits you best. gl man
I have a clutchmasters stage 3 on my car. CM isnt widely used here, more so in honda-land. I didnt want to risk lock out with the ACT, couldnt afford a twin disk. Im only making 350+ but its rated 110% over stock, cant remember the numbers but its over 500. (IIRC)
car is no just my DD, but used to DD all year, AutoX, and road course. had it on since 20k miles, and am at 65 now and still drives great even in DC traffic (kill me).
its all personal opinion, but for a DD or regular usage car i would stay away from pucked clutches. read reviews online and decide for yourself which application suits you best. gl man
I've had the Competition Stage 3 clutch installed in my car with a resurfaced stock flywheel for about 7k miles now. I'm currently bone stock power-wise, looking to make no more than 350 WTQ. The car is my DD and weekend auto-x car. So far, its been really good while DD, pedal feel actually feels a bit lighter than stock, no chatter either. Haven't experienced any lockout while shifting at high RPMs, however I did read a review of this clutch by another member saying that his co-driver's launch at an event just killed the disk. Not too sure on the properties of a kevlar clutch, but it sure doesn't like to be slipped for too long
Trending Topics
450+ torque is gonna need a multi plate clutch, anything else your just wasitng your money and time. A $550 budget is not gonna cut it in the clutch world. You gotta pay to play and if your making 450wtq, you obviously have money sunk into the car
Ill tell you from first hand experience, stay away from ACT. I had horrible lockout issues. We tried everything to fix it, and it just wouldnt. Now i use a different clutch, i can go through gears like butter at 8,000rpms
Ill tell you from first hand experience, stay away from ACT. I had horrible lockout issues. We tried everything to fix it, and it just wouldnt. Now i use a different clutch, i can go through gears like butter at 8,000rpms
Last edited by EvoJoeIX; Oct 17, 2011 at 10:23 PM.
depends on your budget, and how you intend on using the clutch. holding 450 tq is completely different then holding 450 tq while in a race environment. what is your budget (everything, clutch, flywheel, labor or DIY etc) ?
I have a clutchmasters stage 3 on my car. CM isnt widely used here, more so in honda-land. I didnt want to risk lock out with the ACT, couldnt afford a twin disk. Im only making 350+ but its rated 110% over stock, cant remember the numbers but its over 500. (IIRC)
car is no just my DD, but used to DD all year, AutoX, and road course. had it on since 20k miles, and am at 65 now and still drives great even in DC traffic (kill me).
its all personal opinion, but for a DD or regular usage car i would stay away from pucked clutches. read revis online and decide for yourself which application suits you best. gl man
I have a clutchmasters stage 3 on my car. CM isnt widely used here, more so in honda-land. I didnt want to risk lock out with the ACT, couldnt afford a twin disk. Im only making 350+ but its rated 110% over stock, cant remember the numbers but its over 500. (IIRC)
car is no just my DD, but used to DD all year, AutoX, and road course. had it on since 20k miles, and am at 65 now and still drives great even in DC traffic (kill me).
its all personal opinion, but for a DD or regular usage car i would stay away from pucked clutches. read revis online and decide for yourself which application suits you best. gl man
450+ torque is gonna need a multi plate clutch, anything else your just wasitng your money and time. A $550 budget is not gonna cut it in the clutch world. You gotta pay to play and if your making 450wtq, you obviously have money sunk into the car
Ill tell you from first hand experience, stay away from ACT. I had horrible lockout issues. We tried everything to fix it, and it just wouldnt. Now i use a different clutch, i can go through gears like butter at 8,000rpms
Ill tell you from first hand experience, stay away from ACT. I had horrible lockout issues. We tried everything to fix it, and it just wouldnt. Now i use a different clutch, i can go through gears like butter at 8,000rpms
I never had any issues with ACT clutches. I had one on my first IX MR and loved it. The IX MR I just picked up has a clutch made by RPS or something and it's terrible. I've got an ACT clutch and flywheel sitting in my living room waiting to go in now.
We'll install im doing myself and i'm getting a great price on this clutch so i feel i have to try it out i said 450 tq just because i like to b safe i am going to get a bbk full soon and i have kelfords 272 dont know where that will put me but just gestimating






