Time to upgrade bottom end and Turbo
Well first things first, Cheap and Reliable are two things that don’t go together (in most cases) so get that out of your thoughts. 500-600 hp evo is going to cost you 20+K in mods (easy) if you want it to be done right. Hell 8K or more is just so the drive train can handle the abuse.
Not trying to burst your bubble, but everyone wants a 600hp evo, few know how much it really costs…..I know I sure didn’t when I first got into it…I thought I would only be into the car for like 5K lmao
Not trying to burst your bubble, but everyone wants a 600hp evo, few know how much it really costs…..I know I sure didn’t when I first got into it…I thought I would only be into the car for like 5K lmao
Wow really? So your saying that my 500 hp evo I paid 20k in mods for eh. Glad I don't shop where you do. I was looking over recepts the other day and I have no where near 20k into my evo. Sure my car came with an exhaust and cams I got rid of for new cams, but even with all new stuff I am under 5k total. That is everything in my signature.
500whp is one thing...600whp is another. **** starts breaking...
To have a RELIABLE 600whp car you are talking about a built motor (3k+), built heads (1500-3k) built trans/built tcase (3-6k), clutch- most likely a exedy triple (2k-3k [carbon]), turbo set up (3-5k), fueling(500), injectors (500-1k [id2000s]), intake/exhaust (500-1200), fmic 3.5"+/piping (700-1k), most likely a stand alone ecu (1k+), probably an intake manifold (500-1200), and a tune (1k+) let alone several.
On the lower end thats around 17k not including labor or any random hang ups you encounter...
I'd love to see how long your stock block, stock trans car lasted at 600whp+
If your sig numbers are whp, you are going to be replacing some of that soon anyway.
There is a cheap way to do things, and there is a right way to do things. The cheap way always ends up being more expensive
To have a RELIABLE 600whp car you are talking about a built motor (3k+), built heads (1500-3k) built trans/built tcase (3-6k), clutch- most likely a exedy triple (2k-3k [carbon]), turbo set up (3-5k), fueling(500), injectors (500-1k [id2000s]), intake/exhaust (500-1200), fmic 3.5"+/piping (700-1k), most likely a stand alone ecu (1k+), probably an intake manifold (500-1200), and a tune (1k+) let alone several.
On the lower end thats around 17k not including labor or any random hang ups you encounter...
I'd love to see how long your stock block, stock trans car lasted at 600whp+
If your sig numbers are whp, you are going to be replacing some of that soon anyway.
There is a cheap way to do things, and there is a right way to do things. The cheap way always ends up being more expensive
Last edited by SDevo13; Nov 30, 2011 at 10:49 AM.
500whp is one thing...600whp is another. **** starts breaking...
To have a RELIABLE 600whp car you are talking about a built motor (3k+), built heads (1500-3k) built trans/built tcase (3-6k), clutch- most likely a exedy triple (2k-3k [carbon]), turbo set up (3-5k), fueling(500), injectors (500-1k [id2000s]), intake/exhaust (500-1200), fmic 3.5"+/piping (700-1k), most likely a stand alone ecu (1k+), probably an intake manifold (500-1200), and a tune (1k+) let alone several.
On the lower end thats around 17k not including labor or any random hang ups you encounter...
I'd love to see how long your stock block, stock trans car lasted at 600whp+
If your sig numbers are whp, you are going to be replacing some of that soon anyway.
There is a cheap way to do things, and there is a right way to do things. The cheap way always ends up being more expensive
To have a RELIABLE 600whp car you are talking about a built motor (3k+), built heads (1500-3k) built trans/built tcase (3-6k), clutch- most likely a exedy triple (2k-3k [carbon]), turbo set up (3-5k), fueling(500), injectors (500-1k [id2000s]), intake/exhaust (500-1200), fmic 3.5"+/piping (700-1k), most likely a stand alone ecu (1k+), probably an intake manifold (500-1200), and a tune (1k+) let alone several.
On the lower end thats around 17k not including labor or any random hang ups you encounter...
I'd love to see how long your stock block, stock trans car lasted at 600whp+
If your sig numbers are whp, you are going to be replacing some of that soon anyway.
There is a cheap way to do things, and there is a right way to do things. The cheap way always ends up being more expensive
Second- my head still has stock valves and seals, my springs and retainers from gsc were $270 bucks, my cams were $485, I have replacement valves that are 1mm over ready to go when I choose to go in and those were $120 dollars. Machine work to do all this is less then 100 bucks where I go, pending if I want to port and polish the head if and when I decide to so lets do some math minus valves
270+485= 755 dollars as my car sits
755+120+100+ 400 for fully port and polish=1375
any questions?
Third- clutch you don't need to go tripple the exedy twin ($1500) will be more then serfice being it will take more the 500 tq, you don't have to rebuild your t case, only if it needs service. Tranny I would I could see being redone, but again, if it isn't broke don't fix it.
Fourth- turbo if you call Map EF4 with some goodies will be $2200ish tops, ported intake and exhaust mani pending on what version you go with being they have 2 versions, Mil-spec 65mm tb $295
249+295+349=673
Rev3 649+295+349=1293
Fifth- fuel, to reach the #'s I am making that is a single walbro 255 and Fic 1450's
70+275=345
Sixth- Make your own intake out of aluminium pipe save yourself a ton of cash, exhaust pending on whose you get will cost you 700ish. Mine came on the car. Zeitronics wb with lcd display $399
Seventh- Fmic Ams makes one of the better fmic with pipeing, Buschur makes a nice one and ETS as well. All are priced accordingly. ETS I believe sells a full kit for 900 give or take a few bucks, AMS sells there cores for 750, and you dont have to buy upgreaded pipes but I suggest doing that lower 269 upper 399, Buschur sells theres for about the same price.
Last but not least tune? who in the hell pays 1000 bucks to tune a car? Your cars ecu is programable so why even going stand alone? Contact tscompusa and do yourself a huge favor and money by letting him tune the car you will be glad you did.
Lets recap here, I will not add #s that I don't have exact figures to so that wont count in my figures
unported head, rev2, minus tune
755+1500+2200+673+345+700+900+399=$7472 Total
Ported head, rev3
1375+1500+2200+1293+345+700+399+900=$8092 Total
Can't count the tune being Tom offers different options. So with this said I don't know where you got the #s man but simple math is simple math and it doesn't help to find the discounts, sales etc. I didn't add short block prices because This was based off my car and then i elaberated some to give options. If he wanted to do that add 400 for machine work, and around 900 for rods, pistons, bearings and new plugs for the block. Also pending on the type, the manufacture and other factor prices may very. Last of all there is nothing cheap about how my car was built.
Last edited by CurseDSM; Nov 30, 2011 at 02:16 PM.
Thank you all for the great info. So I've decided to go with a set of CP piston and Manley I Beam rods. Im going to leave the crank factory, also upgrading the turbo to a GT3076R. Transmission getting done by Shep Trans. Should i upgrade the Transfercase also??? This my weekend car and most defetly wont lauch the car at high RPMs. So should I leave the Trasfercase alone or upgrade???
Wow really? So your saying that my 500 hp evo I paid 20k in mods for eh. Glad I don't shop where you do. I was looking over recepts the other day and I have no where near 20k into my evo. Sure my car came with an exhaust and cams I got rid of for new cams, but even with all new stuff I am under 5k total. That is everything in my signature.
I think if it did cost 20k in mods to get 600hp, 90% of the guys on this board wouldnt drive evos lol.
If I had to lay out 20k for the car and another 20k to get 600hp out of it, I know I wouldnt be playing with evos lol.
If I had to lay out 20k for the car and another 20k to get 600hp out of it, I know I wouldnt be playing with evos lol.
OP: We'd be more than happy to help you source anything you need, whether it's OEM or aftermarket. We price match, too
Im not saying over 600hp, you might not be into breaking territory. Im just disagreeing with the comment that it takes 20k to get 600hp. 
It might take 20k to keep a 600hp car streetable and reliable, true. But it takes 20k to keep a 500 hp car streetable and reliable, just might stretch out the cost a little more.
You give me 4k on top of what I have now, Ill have 600hp.

It might take 20k to keep a 600hp car streetable and reliable, true. But it takes 20k to keep a 500 hp car streetable and reliable, just might stretch out the cost a little more.
You give me 4k on top of what I have now, Ill have 600hp.
I know many of you don't like to buy car with mods already installed but if you know a good shop did all the work a good way to get a high hp reliable car is to buy it with alot of parts already on it. Then change things to your liking. My car is over 500hp and im only into it 16k. Thats the price i paid as it sits. I already built up my first evo from stock and it was pricey. Glad i went this route this time.
Looks like your well on your way with all the info in here. If you have any questions, feel free to send me a PM.
We can build pretty much anything from mild to wild and everything in between.
Thanks!
Michael
We can build pretty much anything from mild to wild and everything in between.Thanks!
Michael






