One of them $1000 tunes, I would hope would keep things in line. haha

It seems you tend to be a guy that over does it when he builds a car. Thats fine, but why spend the extra cash. Sure a top dog shep tcase runs 1900, but why get it when his stage 1 build will work fine, especially for a street car. Same with the trans, why go with a badass dogbox for 600hp, its no needed. It would be nice, sure, but its wasteful spending.

 

Ok now I need some help. Can some one please explain to me how a motor that runs extremely well, makes good power is unreliable? Because I can make the power and get away with it and the car doesn't break?

 

Don't get me wrong here if I were going out to build an all out drag car or car that I would put on a track every second of its life I can understand putting that much money into it. For a car you drive daily and can beat on whats the point? Cause Buschur does it that means everyone has to follow what he does I guess to make a car "reliable."

 

I guess reliable for you guys means unavoidably having to replace the things that you could have taken care of the first time around. Wish you and anyone else who decides to cut corners at the 600whp mark good luck

 

If it aint broke, dont fix it.

 

There is no corners being cut I don't know why you think it has to be done when it doesn't. I mean they are called "bolt ons" for a reason. Reliable to me is getting from point A to point B. If that means having 500 hp or 600 hp on a stock block and when I get in the car and turn the key it runs and drives without breaking thats reliable to me.

 

What I'm saying.

 

So by your theory if it only lasts for a short while its not worth fixing yet? lol. When your motor eventually goes, let me know what else it takes with it.

 

It will be running still this time next year. Plan on it. Unless I go stroker being that is what I wanted to do all along. But why ruin a perfectly good running 60k mile 2 liter motor. I have nothing but time.

 

I have around 3k into my 500hp. Bought red for $950, Traded red for hta35r kit. Bought used shep trans for $1100, wideband, vrsf 4" intercooler, springs retainers for $1200. Car already had cams, and intercooler piping. Only thing left for reliability is
Junkyard 4g64- $80 for shortblock from picknpull
pistons, rods, bearings, studs
gasket kit, water pump, oil pump, front case ported intake mani, $2000
machine work and assembly $500
Used shep tcase?? 1200

$3750

$7030 total for fully built evo
- stock running shortblock (600), tranny(400), tcase (400)

5,600 for fully built evo

+ whatever new clutch will cost because this ACT sucks.


You have to know how to wheel and deal. And you have to do your own labor.

 

I made that point a while ago. But you didn't spend 20k on your setup so I am sure you will be flamed just like me and your car is prob unreliable just like mine. I mean it doesn't take that much common since to build a race car.

 

interested to see some dyno numbers, keep us posted

edit***
and curse if you end up at the evo/dsm shootout next year I'd be very interested to meet you and see how things are going

 

I'm there every year. We can drink some beers I'm totally down for that

 

Sounds like a plan!

 

Ignorance is bliss i guess, you must drive your car very conservatively for it to last so long. Its not so much the HP that kills the stock block, its the torque. If you can build your "reliable" 500 and whatever horse Evo for 5K, then so be it. I just wouldn't feel confidence in the car lasting very long for what i use my Evo for.