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cant get into 2nd at high rpm

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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 10:06 PM
  #1  
richie rich's Avatar
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From: long beach
cant get into 2nd at high rpm

noticed this when i went to the dragstrip. it was the first time i really took it up to redline since i had the car. 3 runs in a row i couldnt get it into 2nd or 3rd cleanly, it had to be a double clutch move.

since then, ive tried doing pulls and same problem. i can shift if im not shifting like im at the track (if that makes sense).
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 10:18 PM
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From: LI NY
First, lets start with what clutch do you have? There's many
that are notorious for lock out at high rpms.
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 10:34 PM
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richie rich's Avatar
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From: long beach
Originally Posted by 06redrocket
First, lets start with what clutch do you have? There's many
that are notorious for lock out at high rpms.
Since ive had the car I haven't changed the clutch. I forgot what the previous owner said he put in. I know it was either a act or exedy and a stage 2.
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 12:44 AM
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lock out is very common with act at higher rpms. specially if your pedal is not adjusted properly. Another thing that will make it hard to shift into 2nd, is if you are launching hard and the tires are still spinning while trying to up shift.
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 01:02 AM
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Was going to suggest clutch adjust as well. If your clutch is not adjusted properly, essentially you are not fully disengaging the clutch when you change. Even with your foot to the floor. Even if it does turn out to be something else, this is a worthwhile thing to do.

Originally Posted by tscompusa
heres basically what you want:

you know the slave cylinder bolted to the transmission by 2 bolts right? the slave cylinder has a rod that sticks out of it that rest against the fork arm which is attached to the throw out bearing.

What you want to do is confirm you can push that rod in by yourself.. use a towel or something so it doesnt hurt your hand when you try to push it in.. but make sure it compresses in and out all the way. If it does, then you're good there.

Now what you want to do is go down to your pedal assembly where the master cylinder rod is that is attached to your clutch pedal.

The idea here is to adjust that rod out as far as it will go while still being able to push in the slave cylinder rod.. once you adjust it out to far you will not beable to push in the slave cylinder rod and you are blocking fluid transfer from the slave to the master.

so lets say you adjusted the master cylinder rod out to far and you can no longer push in the slave rod.. then you would want to slowly adjust it the other way (inwards) until you can push in that slave cylinder rod again. Once you get it so you have maximum clutch pedal travel and can still push in the slave cylinder rod you have successfully just setup your clutch system for maximum clutch travel and the best settings possible.

what happens is if the slave rod cant be pushed in, that means fluid cant transfer back and forth from the slave and master and the bleeder valve will never self adjust as your clutch wears and it will eventually drag, slip, and destroy your clutch system.

Basically what i just did was write out what is explained in detail on jacks transmission video on youtube.
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 07:02 AM
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Is this a common occurrence on the stock clutch as well, or just aftermarket?
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ca18hatch24
Is this a common occurrence on the stock clutch as well, or just aftermarket?
I've never heard of someone having lockout on a stock clutch. Although I'm sure its happened once or twice maybe ?
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 04:11 AM
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it always happens on my act 6 puck i hate it
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 01:05 PM
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Used to happen to me alot in 2nd and 5th was the Transmission..needed a rebuild
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by AndyCT9W
Was going to suggest clutch adjust as well. If your clutch is not adjusted properly, essentially you are not fully disengaging the clutch when you change. Even with your foot to the floor. Even if it does turn out to be something else, this is a worthwhile thing to do.
Sweet, thanks for posting that. I'm having the same problem as the OP. We'll see if this helps.
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 09:08 PM
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richie rich's Avatar
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From: long beach
Originally Posted by bigmurf124
Sweet, thanks for posting that. I'm having the same problem as the OP. We'll see if this helps.
post up results after you do it
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 09:22 PM
  #12  
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From: WA
i had this problem going into 2nd with the stock clutch. it was worn. i replaced the clutch and didn't have this issue again.
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 09:25 PM
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Piro Fyre's Avatar
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Originally Posted by ca18hatch24
Is this a common occurrence on the stock clutch as well, or just aftermarket?
I have it on my Exedy OEM replacement if that counts. Heck, sometimes, couldn't even get into 4th...
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 10:47 PM
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From: Bay Area
had the same problem, and my solution was:
1. Adjusted the pedal
2. Bought a Blox front motor mount like this:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...tormount0.jpg/

Im on a ACT sprung 6 puck with HD pressure plate, 20K on it and TONS of launches with no lockout at high RPM shifts
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by AndyCT9W
Was going to suggest clutch adjust as well. If your clutch is not adjusted properly, essentially you are not fully disengaging the clutch when you change. Even with your foot to the floor. Even if it does turn out to be something else, this is a worthwhile thing to do.
How do you push the rod that's pushing the fork? Do you unbolt it? Or just push the fork then push it?
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