Long story short... I stripped the Allen bolt that you're suppose to remove to free up the bung in the oil filter housing.. I see there is another one towards the passenger side wheel but I am unable to get the sensor to fit in there(it hits the suspension components). So what can I do? I really do not want one of those sandwich adapters.

Yeah, my advice is to get a sandwich adapter.

Reason being if that tip of the sensor shears from vibration over time you have a big headache on your hands and wishing you spent the $20 bucks. Just something to consider.

I defiantly wouldnt put it near the suspension. Sorry I cant answer the original question.

Both ports in the oil filter housing are 3/8" BSPT threads. Get an angled adaptor to screw into the oil filter housing and screw your oil pressure sensor into the adaptor. What adaptor you will need depends on what threads your oil pressure sender has.

Here is an example for a 3/8" BSPT to 1/8" NPT adaptor:

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Lanc...ptor_p_53.html

get an AMS remote oil pressure line. It will relocate your oil pressure switch to your engine bay, where it won't have the possibility of vibrating loose

plus juan

I have the adapter but it still seems to angle right into the axle

How far does the AMS line stick out? Wonder if it would fit without hitting anything.

So, I'm in the middle of doing this install and I started a thread here:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...questions.html

As mentioned, I would recommend picking up the AMS sending line. This allows you to mount your sending unit anywhere you want.

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/A...Unit-Line.html

Hey I was actually using your tutorial for my install and stripped the head for that bolt on the oil filter housing. Will the AMS line fit ok on the bung on the other side of the housing? How far does the AMS line stick out from the housing itself?

Both of those plugs are identical.

Sorry to hear you ended up rounding out that plug. I've read a few posts of people having that issue.

I don't have it in front of me, but I can walk out to the garage and measure the elbow for you.

If you could measure the elbow that'd be much appreciated.

Looks like it's 2.5"

Stripping the bolt can be a avoided if you heat up the Allen bolt first. That sticky needs updating.

"This plug is damn near impossible to remove without breaking the loctite bond by heating to over 400F.

Use a propane, propane/oxy, or oxy/acetylene torch with a small tip, heat the plug itself, DO NOT heat the housing! DO NOT overheat! Apply torch for 30 second to 60 second intervals until the plug can be easily removed using an 8mm or 5/16 inch allen socket and ratchet. It is not torqued tight, it will break free with minimal pressure once the loctite has been heated enough to break the bond.

WARNING- If you do not use heat, you will round the edges and make it impossible to remove!

WARNING- If you ignore this instruction and put your 1/2 inch air gun on it, you are screwed!

Clean threads, apply thread sealer to provided 3/8 inch BSPT to 1/4 inch male JIC (-4 AN) adapter, and screw into housing, use approximately 35-40 lbs/ft torque.

There are two hoses provided, one has a 120 deg bend, the other is straight. Bent hose goes from engine oil filter housing to inline filter, straight hose goes from inline filter to turbo. The sharp bend is required to clear the RF axle.

Attach hose with 120 deg bend to this adapter, angle hose to clear, tighten to approx. 20 lbs/ft. Take note that hose will pass very close to low oil pressure warning switch, make sure the metal hose does not touch the switch terminal! If your low oil pressure idiot light stays on after line install, you know why!" - Forced Performance

Not all of us have an acetylene torch in our garage, however. From other threads I've read on this, it can be done without a torch.

If you use an 8mm hex socket and gradually apply torque, you should be able to break it free without rounding the plug.

MAPP/Propane torch from Sears or most any hardware store will run you like 30 bucks