Hey... it's been a while.... i'm about to buy some new parts for my evo 9... i need new shocks/struts... rear and front... i also need a new clutch... i've looked everywhere for all the stuff and looked at lots of reviews... i just wanted to see what people's opinions are and what NOT to buy... ps: i only have a $2,000 budget for all this..

suspension:
i prefer something that doesnt bounce all around the road but, i want it to stick...
I also bought in the past the hotchkis lowering spring kit for the oe shocks... it's the kit not just the springs... the bushings springs and all

Oh, and i also would want the new bearing/bushing kit but, i can find it when i figure out what shock/strut/coil-over i want

can anyone help me understand WHY everyone wants coil over not shock/strut ??

what's better for street ? i dont really go to the track but, i want it to last and/or have a awesome warranty.. i was thinking about the bilstein hd pro shock/struts but, im sure people have better options i'm not aware of

Clutch:
i burned up the stock clutch fairly fast.. yea i know i modified the car pretty good but, it did what it could..... sooo i bought an exedy stage 3 (i think) it's a 6 puck clutch and correct me if i need be but, i think that's what it was...but, yeah it's a really nice clutch held up great... easy enough to drive but, was kinda hard to street... but, i could deal with it... funny tho no on else could drive it properly... i LOVE the fact it grabbed well but, it didnt last at allllllll like say 30k miles or less... i burned it up in a year.... bleh... i want something that lasts well as far as i dont drive the crap out of my car i get on it every now and again like everyone else... i DO NOT launch the car... i just like to pull

i want something that has a low "lock out" rate and hold up...
something that's a little bit more driveable then the one i have..
ps im still using the same amount of money buying both the clutch and shocks...

The mods i have if it will help is..
-4in thick fmic
-hard pipe intercooler piping
-hks bov
-full exhaust, no cats, greddy tic muffler
-a really good tune.. buddy's great with mitsu's
-i HAD a DLI II and it burned a coil but, i want another one.. suggestions ?
-stage 3 clutch
-stock motor internals
-stock drivetrain parts
-all new timing components/belts/hoses etc.. but, u didnt need to know the last haha sorry
-running the oem replacment NGK laser iridium plugs
-i also have the small battery kit
-urethane motor mounts
-im not sure what else to put it's 6:00am and i cant think anymore.. ugh

thanks for listeneing/helping !!!!

 

Man, you burned up a stage 3 clutch without dropping it? I'm sorry I just don't understand. WOT Pulls can burn up a clutch?

 

i did a lot of street driving on it and after time it eventually burned up the "meat" on the disc.. i havent taken it out yet to see what exactly happened i want to buy a new clutch first... so as it is a smooth transition to the new one and minimal loss of time...

 

Ahh we meet again!

Anyways, I can relate to the OP. Had a 6 puck Comp Clutch that I drove to the point where the car wasn't drivable anymore. All the contacts were worn down to the metal and even the spring broke off. Only 20k miles

Check out this thread on a new comp clutch. It's a solid disk but seems to be hooking up pretty well.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ve...-alt-hdss.html

Not sure about suspension. I think I'm going to use my Swift springs and purchase a set of Bilstein HD struts/shocks. Give TireRack.com my spring specs and have them re-valve the struts. I heard it's an excellent upgrade.

I think people go with coilovers for the adjustable height among other things. You get into the expensive setups that allow you to change a lot of settings but might be too much for a guy that likes to take it out on the weekends. Don't get caught up in a cheap set.

 

Excellent... i looked it up... would it be better if i got a stage 2 or 3 ? i mean i'm not running a crazy amount of HP but, a decent amount that i am running... i just want something thats gonna hold and have some sort of longevity !!!!


no one on suspension ?? haha

 

I'm sure there will be a ton of people who disagree with me, but you should get the stock clutch, plain and simple.

1. With your mods, unless you missed something, you aren't making anything crazy. The stock clutch is fine. In fact it's better than fine.

If you're not launching the car, then there shouldn't really be any discussion. You want a drivable clutch, that will last.

I'm not sure how all of you dudes are burning through clutches so fast? I'm on the stock clutch at 51000 miles, making 305 at the wheels in HP and TQ, and I DO track the car, and launch it.

Clutches are a wear item. They're supposed to wear. I find it not at all a coincidence that there are so many people on here who:
A. Dislike their clutch mods, and
B. That Evos have a crazy high transfer case/transmission failure.

Bottom line is, if you eliminate that segment of the driveline that might absorb some of that power, then it will get passed on down the driveline. So unless these guys are going through tires like crazy, guess what? Something in the car is wearing.

2. Suspension. If you're looking for an excellent modification, the MR's Bilstein suspension is great for a street suspension.

Again, many people ruin this car with insane suspension mods without really knowing much about it. If you want to ACTUALLY upgrade the Evos suspension, then go to the track.

 

I'd listen to Propilot04, he seems to have the right idea. Although, I'd opt for a slightly more aggressive clutch, but that is just my own personal preference.

Along the same lines, find the least aggressive clutch that will still get the job done. Even if that is an OEM replacement. You and your car's drive train will be happier.

Again, with the suspension I would agree with Propilot04. Something simple like MR bilstein suspension slipped my mind. Purchased some used on the "For Sale" section and have them sent off to be re-valved (if they are high mileage). I would still install some Swift Spec-R or Sport Springs, but again, that's just me. Probably the best DD setup you can get (give or take the swift springs)

About bushings, I'd do some heavy research before going that route. For a DD and wanting bushings, I'd go with Energy Suspension bushings in black (I guess the ones in red are different compound). They are a nice price and the White Line bushings are a little aggressive. Do your own research and weight the pro's and con's (Performance vs Amount of noise you can tolerate)

 

What about a lightened flywheel with my setup?? Would it help or hurt more then it helps??? Jw

 

How many milies did it last?

 

I'd probably stay stock. I have a lightened flywheel. I had one when i bought the car, so I don't know what it's like normally.

I know English Racing stands by the oem flywheel. I don't want to seem like I'm speaking for them, but I remember Aaron telling me something along those lines.

Especially if you are DD'ing the car. A lighter flywheel is just going to be more hassle.

 

lightened flywheel on a street car will allow your rpms to drop to fast and cause increase synchro wear...
i agree with whats his name on the mr bilsteins. pick up a full set for 3-400 bucks. send them in for rebuild 300. with shipping and any other charges maybe 800 bucks total. and you can even have them custom valved to respond to your set of springs. but i would pick up robispecs cause they are incredible and not to big of a drop. as for the clutch anything with a full face. pucked clutches are horrible on the street. and full faced disc is gonna respond better and hold your torque just fine. cant say i'd go back stock but he is right you should be fine at your power level since you dont launch.
as for you ignition. do a part number cross ref at autozone with the number on the side of the coil pack and rebuild the kit. pretty simple. but shoot for a name brand company. dont settle for some generic brand to save money. some parts are fine but things like ignitions seals and rotating assemblies spend a lil extra and get something quality cause your engine depends on it to not fail.

as for your next upgrade. get a boost controller a REV3 ported intake mani from modern auto and a ported TB and get your motor breathing right. it will make the best of your ridiculous intercooler.
i'm throwing down 596 as of last night on a cheap *** mishimoto i bought on ebay 3 years ago. that might be a lil over you budget total.. but hell with it...

suspension- 800
rev 3- 650
ported TB or full blown cast 70mm 265-300
bc with remote kit- 140
clutch- 450-900 depending on flywheel condition. chance are you will need a new one
total- 2305-2750
you could always save a few bucks and go for the rev 2 mani since you arent really ready for rev3. that will save 400 and put you under budget... well before install

 

Here is great review for suspension.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-comments.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-springs.html

Hope this helps.

 

Ok i guess im going to go with the bilstein hd's on the shocks... and as far as the clutch... i'm giong to check out the comp clutch stage ??? 2??? i guess... any suggestions on where to look for them at a fair price and if i have some money left over... i'll buy the DLI II again

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rivetrain-192/

 

http://www.shopenglishracing.com/Evo...lutch-Kit.html

Do you plan on doing this yourself or having a shop do it? That will be a big factor in your budget, since the clutch labor may end up costing twice as much as the clutch itself.

When I called tirerack.com about the Bilstein HD's. the front struts were like $130 a piece and the rear were $245 each and backordered till June.