Evolved Member
Lets Try this....
1.Check ALL of the wires that goto your ECU. (You would be surprised how some people wire things in ....)
2.Make sure that any of those spliced wires are not grounding out some place...
3.Make sure its a Stock ECU (Probably should be #1 but the wires seem more important)
4.Boost Leak Test....(Serious one, check all vaccum lines and IC piping.)
Somewhere along those 4 things you will find your problem.
Cheers
1.Check ALL of the wires that goto your ECU. (You would be surprised how some people wire things in ....)
2.Make sure that any of those spliced wires are not grounding out some place...
3.Make sure its a Stock ECU (Probably should be #1 but the wires seem more important)
4.Boost Leak Test....(Serious one, check all vaccum lines and IC piping.)
Somewhere along those 4 things you will find your problem.
Cheers
Evolved Member
oh ok well, I didnt know you have gone through the steps I recommended already, yea if the wiring you messed with is tied into signaling the ignition to fire, then I can definitely see the rich mix at idle. But usually in my opinion I recommend to check the easy non headache stuff first, thus y I recommended what I did. Now you were saying you pulled a code for vehicle speed sensor, does your speedometer still work???
Good luck
Good luck
Quote:
I'm positive it's not a boost leak, I checked all of the basics like that. New plugs, checked coils, etc. it's an electrical issue of some sort.
Thank you for the suggestions!
Just to be clear, I didn't actually rip any wires out of the harness or ecu or anything. I just believe they may be compromised due to whoever installing the gauges running the wires through the same grommet.
I will certainly check those circuits though. If it matters, the tach is working now.
I'm wondering if it's possible the ecu somehow lost the map or something? Not sure if that can happen with these ecus but in the vw world it's not uncommon to lose ecu maps.
Originally Posted by maradits
If the ignition timing is way off or weak it could absolutely cause for the fuel to not burn. I'm positive it's not a boost leak, I checked all of the basics like that. New plugs, checked coils, etc. it's an electrical issue of some sort.
Thank you for the suggestions!
Just to be clear, I didn't actually rip any wires out of the harness or ecu or anything. I just believe they may be compromised due to whoever installing the gauges running the wires through the same grommet.
I will certainly check those circuits though. If it matters, the tach is working now.
I'm wondering if it's possible the ecu somehow lost the map or something? Not sure if that can happen with these ecus but in the vw world it's not uncommon to lose ecu maps.
Quote:
1.Check ALL of the wires that goto your ECU. (You would be surprised how some people wire things in ....)
2.Make sure that any of those spliced wires are not grounding out some place...
3.Make sure its a Stock ECU (Probably should be #1 but the wires seem more important)
4.Boost Leak Test....(Serious one, check all vaccum lines and IC piping.)
Somewhere along those 4 things you will find your problem.
Cheers
I appreciate the input. I did the majority of those things already, but need to go through a complete electrical diagnosis on the harness (which is extremely difficult to reach with the engine in the car). Unfortunately I'm out of town for work at the moment, but I will go through everything more completely when I get back.Originally Posted by Drifting Away
Lets Try this....1.Check ALL of the wires that goto your ECU. (You would be surprised how some people wire things in ....)
2.Make sure that any of those spliced wires are not grounding out some place...
3.Make sure its a Stock ECU (Probably should be #1 but the wires seem more important)
4.Boost Leak Test....(Serious one, check all vaccum lines and IC piping.)
Somewhere along those 4 things you will find your problem.
Cheers
Quote:
Good luck
Speedo works, that's why I'm confused that that is the only code.Originally Posted by dastallion951
oh ok well, I didnt know you have gone through the steps I recommended already, yea if the wiring you messed with is tied into signaling the ignition to fire, then I can definitely see the rich mix at idle. But usually in my opinion I recommend to check the easy non headache stuff first, thus y I recommended what I did. Now you were saying you pulled a code for vehicle speed sensor, does your speedometer still work???Good luck
Evolved Member
maybe the code popped up because it shorted or somethin, the sensor should be on the transmission disconnect it check inside of connector and wiring outside, and reattach it. Clear code.
Evolved Member
Quote:
good luck
Originally Posted by dastallion951
boost leak, most likely, bad ignition wouldnt cause a 10.0 air fuel at idle, rev past 2k yes, but not a rich idle, i would say do a boost leak test, and throw in a new set of spark plugs and gap them. While you take out the old plugs measure your coilpacks and spark plug wires resistance make sure there within spec. Then go from theregood luck
I had a boostleak with this car and man it really didnt like it at all. It went all crazy the car ran like crap definitely check up on this.
Evolved Member
Good luck with it.
My buddy just called with the same thing.
His number8 fuse blown also. So he removed all oxygen sensors and check wiring. When he put it back fuse didn't pop anymore,but now car runs pig rich.
He's putting new plugs in today because they are completely fouled.
He's on SD, so the MAF doesn't apply.
My buddy just called with the same thing.
His number8 fuse blown also. So he removed all oxygen sensors and check wiring. When he put it back fuse didn't pop anymore,but now car runs pig rich.
He's putting new plugs in today because they are completely fouled.
He's on SD, so the MAF doesn't apply.
problem solved!
this guy was tapped into the MAF signal wire and evidently blocked the signal completely or something.
this guy was tapped into the MAF signal wire and evidently blocked the signal completely or something.