How important is the undertray?
i have the carbing aluminum under panel and its a love/hate relationship. i just really hate having to remove it everytime i change the oil or have to get under the car. granted its only 5 bolts, well 4 bolts and one screw, it still sucks having to remove it and install it again.
i do like the added protection from the roads i live on. my driveway is a mile long gravel road which often washes out and everytime something smacks the plate i cringe and thank god its there because i know it could have been my oil pan.
i do like the added protection from the roads i live on. my driveway is a mile long gravel road which often washes out and everytime something smacks the plate i cringe and thank god its there because i know it could have been my oil pan.
Danner & evo8426,
How is the Beatrush fitments (bolt & nuts or just using clips)?
Do we need to add some additional bracket?
(especially around the corner parts/near the tyre section)
While doing oil change, do we need to remove the whole panel?
Kindly share your input & very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance...
How is the Beatrush fitments (bolt & nuts or just using clips)?
Do we need to add some additional bracket?
(especially around the corner parts/near the tyre section)
While doing oil change, do we need to remove the whole panel?
Kindly share your input & very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance...
If you ever have an open stretch of baron desert road, Top out your Evo. 160ish Stock mines currently gear limited to 165.. 
now remove your zero lift kit, or front under tray, and try the same pass.
You'll then understand why its there. 0-100 its basically pointless, something used to raise the price of the car and keep dush dirt snow out of the engine bay. 100mph+ it reduces front end lift and increases downforce which in turn counters the lift the rear wing tries to induce.
Its definitely functional and a great upgrade for someone without one... and for someone like myself who had one and lost it. its always in the back of your mind when you top 120.

now remove your zero lift kit, or front under tray, and try the same pass.
You'll then understand why its there. 0-100 its basically pointless, something used to raise the price of the car and keep dush dirt snow out of the engine bay. 100mph+ it reduces front end lift and increases downforce which in turn counters the lift the rear wing tries to induce.
Its definitely functional and a great upgrade for someone without one... and for someone like myself who had one and lost it. its always in the back of your mind when you top 120.
their is a great how to on here i was going to use. it can only get better if someone could afford to buy a big sheet of alluminum to make it from.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...heap-easy.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...heap-easy.html
ooohh, nice write up. I hadn't come across that before. I always thought about doing that, but couldn't figure out how to attach the inner and upper fender panels. In the stock setup they all attach to each other giving it the little strength it has. Did you attach to any of those points with brackets? Same question as I have about the beatrush.
their is a great how to on here i was going to use. it can only get better if someone could afford to buy a big sheet of alluminum to make it from.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...heap-easy.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...heap-easy.html
i just priced the aluminum sheet at the local metal supply store. its about $3 per pound and it was about 7 pounds for a 48x48 sheet so about $20. I think they sell them in 60" wide also. this was for the .032 thickness. I will probably go one thinner to make it lighter.
Damn. I stuffed my undertrays up in the attic after doing my clutch (again) last month. Did go to a track day, did not readily notice any difference (only hit 120-125 on the straight). With what I've read and seen here today though, will begin saving up for the Beatrush. My inner fender-liners are torn up, the front bumper is effed thanks to curbs/driveways, etc. I need a whole new front bumper before I go about purchasing the Beatrush. That thing looks sick, but for everyday driving, I'm not worried about leaving off the covers.
i just priced the aluminum sheet at the local metal supply store. its about $3 per pound and it was about 7 pounds for a 48x48 sheet so about $20. I think they sell them in 60" wide also. this was for the .032 thickness. I will probably go one thinner to make it lighter.
Thats a great deal for aluminum sheet. I would have loved to use a more durable material but couldn't find anything reasonably priced. The panel I used is 0.1" thick and its kinda floppy. I have it attached at enough point that its not a problem, so it shouldnt be for u either...you can also afford to double up at that price..
I think i saw the stainless steel for about $3.69 a lbs. so its only a little more but I thought will be difficult to make the cuts using some hand shears. they also had galvanized steel which should work also for $1 a pound.
ooohh, nice write up. I hadn't come across that before. I always thought about doing that, but couldn't figure out how to attach the inner and upper fender panels. In the stock setup they all attach to each other giving it the little strength it has. Did you attach to any of those points with brackets? Same question as I have about the beatrush.
Danner & evo8426,
How is the Beatrush fitments (bolt & nuts or just using clips)?
Do we need to add some additional bracket?
(especially around the corner parts/near the tyre section)
While doing oil change, do we need to remove the whole panel?
Kindly share your input & very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance...
How is the Beatrush fitments (bolt & nuts or just using clips)?
Do we need to add some additional bracket?
(especially around the corner parts/near the tyre section)
While doing oil change, do we need to remove the whole panel?
Kindly share your input & very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance...
i just priced the aluminum sheet at the local metal supply store. its about $3 per pound and it was about 7 pounds for a 48x48 sheet so about $20. I think they sell them in 60" wide also. this was for the .032 thickness. I will probably go one thinner to make it lighter.
http://www.industrialmetalsupply.com/
its a giant warehouse you can walk into, just wear closed toe shoes. they have a lot of overstock stuff in bins or you can order stuff in any size you want in any shape of length.
its a giant warehouse you can walk into, just wear closed toe shoes. they have a lot of overstock stuff in bins or you can order stuff in any size you want in any shape of length.




