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How important is the undertray?

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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 10:22 PM
  #46  
awdordie's Avatar
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From: tennessee
i have the carbing aluminum under panel and its a love/hate relationship. i just really hate having to remove it everytime i change the oil or have to get under the car. granted its only 5 bolts, well 4 bolts and one screw, it still sucks having to remove it and install it again.

i do like the added protection from the roads i live on. my driveway is a mile long gravel road which often washes out and everytime something smacks the plate i cringe and thank god its there because i know it could have been my oil pan.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 06:11 PM
  #47  
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Danner & evo8426,

How is the Beatrush fitments (bolt & nuts or just using clips)?
Do we need to add some additional bracket?
(especially around the corner parts/near the tyre section)

While doing oil change, do we need to remove the whole panel?
Kindly share your input & very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance...
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 10:47 PM
  #48  
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From: CA
Originally Posted by joseph143
If you ever have an open stretch of baron desert road, Top out your Evo. 160ish Stock mines currently gear limited to 165..

now remove your zero lift kit, or front under tray, and try the same pass.

You'll then understand why its there. 0-100 its basically pointless, something used to raise the price of the car and keep dush dirt snow out of the engine bay. 100mph+ it reduces front end lift and increases downforce which in turn counters the lift the rear wing tries to induce.

Its definitely functional and a great upgrade for someone without one... and for someone like myself who had one and lost it. its always in the back of your mind when you top 120.
I can second that. I run CA speedway, which gets me just a tick passed 140 into turn 1. I have tried that without the undertray and it was nearly the end of it all. It is almost as important as the rear wing at those speeds. I am on my second stock undertray. Interested in the beatrush, but pricey stuff. I had a different one years ago and returned it, because it couldn't attach any of the other panels on the sides. Does the beatrush connect to the fender liners and inner fender panels like the stocker?
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 10:51 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by EvoFredo
their is a great how to on here i was going to use. it can only get better if someone could afford to buy a big sheet of alluminum to make it from.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...heap-easy.html
haha nice...I was hoping my old how-to would make it in here. The original tray has been on the car over 2 yrs. I made some improvements to it...heat shield for the downpipe, hole for a dump tube, reinforced the mouting points. It may look flimsy but its strong enough to survive 2 incidents with road debris. One with a bump in the road that yanked off one of the main mounts, the other with a truck tire on the highway at 75mph...in both incidents, mounting hardware was severely damaged but the tray itself remained intact and completely secured to the car. It works...no need to spend $400+
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:26 AM
  #50  
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ooohh, nice write up. I hadn't come across that before. I always thought about doing that, but couldn't figure out how to attach the inner and upper fender panels. In the stock setup they all attach to each other giving it the little strength it has. Did you attach to any of those points with brackets? Same question as I have about the beatrush.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 01:09 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by EvoFredo
their is a great how to on here i was going to use. it can only get better if someone could afford to buy a big sheet of alluminum to make it from.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...heap-easy.html

i just priced the aluminum sheet at the local metal supply store. its about $3 per pound and it was about 7 pounds for a 48x48 sheet so about $20. I think they sell them in 60" wide also. this was for the .032 thickness. I will probably go one thinner to make it lighter.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 02:20 PM
  #52  
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Damn. I stuffed my undertrays up in the attic after doing my clutch (again) last month. Did go to a track day, did not readily notice any difference (only hit 120-125 on the straight). With what I've read and seen here today though, will begin saving up for the Beatrush. My inner fender-liners are torn up, the front bumper is effed thanks to curbs/driveways, etc. I need a whole new front bumper before I go about purchasing the Beatrush. That thing looks sick, but for everyday driving, I'm not worried about leaving off the covers.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 02:28 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by artinist
i just priced the aluminum sheet at the local metal supply store. its about $3 per pound and it was about 7 pounds for a 48x48 sheet so about $20. I think they sell them in 60" wide also. this was for the .032 thickness. I will probably go one thinner to make it lighter.
What metal supply? I am in OC, and would do the same.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 04:45 PM
  #54  
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Thats a great deal for aluminum sheet. I would have loved to use a more durable material but couldn't find anything reasonably priced. The panel I used is 0.1" thick and its kinda floppy. I have it attached at enough point that its not a problem, so it shouldnt be for u either...you can also afford to double up at that price..
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 04:50 PM
  #55  
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I think i saw the stainless steel for about $3.69 a lbs. so its only a little more but I thought will be difficult to make the cuts using some hand shears. they also had galvanized steel which should work also for $1 a pound.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 04:51 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by fireroasted
ooohh, nice write up. I hadn't come across that before. I always thought about doing that, but couldn't figure out how to attach the inner and upper fender panels. In the stock setup they all attach to each other giving it the little strength it has. Did you attach to any of those points with brackets? Same question as I have about the beatrush.
Nope didn't attach it to the fender panels...about 8 plastic fasteners across the front lip, 2 U shaped bolts to the rear-most brace and then one plastic fastener into a pre-existing hole in the cross member. Its solid. If u go for it, just use ur imagination and reinforce the mouting points as stong as you can. I used aluminum sheet from Lowe's as a heatshield and to reinforce the mounting holes
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 05:06 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by pangyau
Danner & evo8426,

How is the Beatrush fitments (bolt & nuts or just using clips)?
Do we need to add some additional bracket?
(especially around the corner parts/near the tyre section)

While doing oil change, do we need to remove the whole panel?
Kindly share your input & very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance...
I really like the way it fits, everything lines up perfectly everytime I remove it to do oil/fluid changes. I don't recall right off the bat if I have to remove the front portion of the panel for oil changes though, but I have one coming up soon and could tell you then. No additional anything is needed for install except for an allen key and a socket or wrench. I highly recommend the panel
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 07:54 PM
  #58  
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With the Beatrush the rear panel is removed for oil changes - four fasteners.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 08:34 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by artinist
i just priced the aluminum sheet at the local metal supply store. its about $3 per pound and it was about 7 pounds for a 48x48 sheet so about $20. I think they sell them in 60" wide also. this was for the .032 thickness. I will probably go one thinner to make it lighter.
artinist - where exactly did you find the aluminum sheets in LA? Thanks
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 01:43 AM
  #60  
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From: So. Cali.
http://www.industrialmetalsupply.com/

its a giant warehouse you can walk into, just wear closed toe shoes. they have a lot of overstock stuff in bins or you can order stuff in any size you want in any shape of length.
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