Fp black on stock block set up
I have fp black on stock block gsc s2 and all other basic bolt one's, been running it for about 5k miles with no issues. As long as you keep the TQ low you will be fine, but to get the full effect of the black I'd say build the block in your off time which is what I am gonna do. But with the driving you do I'd say you will be fine. Good luck!
I'm at 406 whp on a mustang dyno, stock block with a black and I'm not stressing, it comes down to setups and tunes, you have blown motors from knock, detonation, and not proper cooling, I dd my car and don't race it though, high power on pump gas is not all that safe though go e85 or 110 and go big when it pops, I have only 30k miles on my 03 and the motor is solid
Ive heard of people runnin 550/470 on stock blocks and no problems, then I've seen people with 470/420 pop in no time. It's an engine with mechanical moving parts no tellin when or why something fails, but it happens. Putting good parts in it and assembling it correctly is the best way to ensure the most secure reliability and even then stuff can fail when assembled properly. It's all in good fun though.... Too make boost!
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I would leave the power where it is.
My stock block survived at 440 WHP (Dyno Dynamics) for a while but, after a few weeks the #2 cylinder began to loose compression.
If you want more power, do it right and build the motor. In the end it won't be cheap, but it will be cheaper than also having to buy a block to use as a core.
I built my motor and haven't looked back. I am now at 466 WHP on a Mustang Dyno (520 WHP Dynojet).
If you need ideas, check out my build thread in my sig.
-Bink
My stock block survived at 440 WHP (Dyno Dynamics) for a while but, after a few weeks the #2 cylinder began to loose compression.
If you want more power, do it right and build the motor. In the end it won't be cheap, but it will be cheaper than also having to buy a block to use as a core.
I built my motor and haven't looked back. I am now at 466 WHP on a Mustang Dyno (520 WHP Dynojet).
If you need ideas, check out my build thread in my sig.
-Bink
Ive heard of people runnin 550/470 on stock blocks and no problems, then I've seen people with 470/420 pop in no time. It's an engine with mechanical moving parts no tellin when or why something fails, but it happens. Putting good parts in it and assembling it correctly is the best way to ensure the most secure reliability and even then stuff can fail when assembled properly. It's all in good fun though.... Too make boost!
That's why I say to build the bottom end if you can. It's cheaper to do it before it blows.
It really depends on the tuner as well. You can have a tuner who tuned your car to 400ft-lbs and run like crap w/ high knock counts and end up making it blow. And others will make it run as smooth as butter from 0-2 knock counts. I'm pushing 465whp/355ft-lbs@30psi, 1 knock count is the highest I got @ 7,400rpm on stock cams.
Thinking of going getting GSC S2 cams as well, shoot for 500whp/380-400ft-lbs, and I'll be happy with that.
Thinking of going getting GSC S2 cams as well, shoot for 500whp/380-400ft-lbs, and I'll be happy with that.
This is what happened to my motor. FP Red 29psi on E85. VD numbers were 504/468, destroyed EVERYTHING. By everything I mean tcase, radiator, the entire head, EVERYTHING.
Thats looking straight through the block
There were 9 holes total in the oil pan
Thats looking straight through the block
There were 9 holes total in the oil pan
Last edited by sublime44; Apr 10, 2012 at 07:09 PM.
I was 506 awhp/477wtq on my hta green setup on 33 psi, and I am now on my fp black with 34psi. Ran for a year with both setups (on e85). Still running and I drive the car about 3-4 times to and from work and on weekends.
What really pisses me off is I was only going about 35mph maybe 1/4 throttle and it blew when I shifted into 4th while I was going to the store to get beer. Ive seen quite a few people on here with 05 Evos where the #2 rod snapped while driving normal.
