how to replace exhaust manifold bolts and studs
#1
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how to replace exhaust manifold bolts and studs
is there a how to on how to replace exhaust manifold bolts and studs?
https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...ce2a487888adcb
is there a bolt inside and outside? do i have to get to the inside portion of it?
https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...ce2a487888adcb
is there a bolt inside and outside? do i have to get to the inside portion of it?
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is there any studs on the other side of the bolt?? or does it just pull out?
#9
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Studs are suppose to be 'hand tight', over tightening them will cause induced stress on the threads before you add the clamp load from tightening the nuts... they should be snug, not tight, slight difference
Good luck
Joe
#10
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The allen head is really there to make sure they are fully seated, not to be 'tightened'
Studs are suppose to be 'hand tight', over tightening them will cause induced stress on the threads before you add the clamp load from tightening the nuts... they should be snug, not tight, slight difference
Good luck
Joe
Studs are suppose to be 'hand tight', over tightening them will cause induced stress on the threads before you add the clamp load from tightening the nuts... they should be snug, not tight, slight difference
Good luck
Joe
ARP put the allen head there because newbies were putting ARP head studs into dirty threads as tight as a weakling could thread them in by hand... Unfortunately the dirt in the threads was only causing the studs to go in 3-4 threads deep, thus when torqing down the nut, it was striping out the first few threads.. Then these same newbs would go on the internet and trash ARP for "striping out my head/block"
by using the allen key you put enough leverage on to get the stud all the way down so it's seated.
I personally always chase the threads of a critical stud/bolt hole with a thread cleaning die before installing the stud/bolt.
#11
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Agreed.
ARP put the allen head there because newbies were putting ARP head studs into dirty threads as tight as a weakling could thread them in by hand... Unfortunately the dirt in the threads was only causing the studs to go in 3-4 threads deep, thus when torqing down the nut, it was striping out the first few threads.. Then these same newbs would go on the internet and trash ARP for "striping out my head/block"
by using the allen key you put enough leverage on to get the stud all the way down so it's seated.
I personally always chase the threads of a critical stud/bolt hole with a thread cleaning die before installing the stud/bolt.
ARP put the allen head there because newbies were putting ARP head studs into dirty threads as tight as a weakling could thread them in by hand... Unfortunately the dirt in the threads was only causing the studs to go in 3-4 threads deep, thus when torqing down the nut, it was striping out the first few threads.. Then these same newbs would go on the internet and trash ARP for "striping out my head/block"
by using the allen key you put enough leverage on to get the stud all the way down so it's seated.
I personally always chase the threads of a critical stud/bolt hole with a thread cleaning die before installing the stud/bolt.
#12
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Finished! I thread chased them so it when in pretty easy. I had to use a nut on them to get them to fully thread in, but I did it very lightly. Now for my hotside studs on my turbo. I have one that is 1/2 way out. It won't budge anymore! I've torched the metal near the stud, I've PB Blasted the hell out of it for 2 days. I'm almost ready to take it to a machine shop. Any ideas? Someone on another thread said ATF mixed with acetone.
#13
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Finished! I thread chased them so it when in pretty easy. I had to use a nut on them to get them to fully thread in, but I did it very lightly. Now for my hotside studs on my turbo. I have one that is 1/2 way out. It won't budge anymore! I've torched the metal near the stud, I've PB Blasted the hell out of it for 2 days. I'm almost ready to take it to a machine shop. Any ideas? Someone on another thread said ATF mixed with acetone.
#14
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