Notices
Evo General Discuss any generalized technical Evo related topics that may not fit into the other forums. Please do not post tech and rumor threads here.
Sponsored by: RavSpec - JDM Wheels Central

how to replace exhaust manifold bolts and studs

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 1, 2012, 03:47 PM
  #1  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
 
88888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Under the car
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
how to replace exhaust manifold bolts and studs

is there a how to on how to replace exhaust manifold bolts and studs?

https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...ce2a487888adcb

is there a bolt inside and outside? do i have to get to the inside portion of it?
Old May 1, 2012, 03:53 PM
  #2  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (71)
 
okevolutionVIII's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: OKC
Posts: 1,458
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
It has 2 different thread pitches on the stud. I just thread 2 nuts on it tightened together and then use an open end wrench to back out the 1st nut threaded on as it will be jammed to the 2nd one. This will unscrew the studs.
Old May 1, 2012, 03:54 PM
  #3  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
 
88888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Under the car
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by okevolutionVIII
It has 2 different thread pitches on the stud. I just thread 2 nuts on it tightened together and then use an open end wrench to back out the 1st nut threaded on as it will be jammed to the 2nd one. This will unscrew the studs.
is there any studs on the other side of the bolt?? or does it just pull out?
Old May 1, 2012, 04:34 PM
  #4  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (21)
 
llDemonll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Washington
Posts: 3,231
Received 99 Likes on 79 Posts
no studs on the other side, the engine block is just threaded for the bolt
Old May 2, 2012, 03:00 PM
  #5  
Newbie
 
slvrevosd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
exactly what above said ^
Old Jul 15, 2012, 11:38 PM
  #6  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (12)
 
10isace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: East of the Rockies
Posts: 1,048
Received 14 Likes on 9 Posts
I just took mine out and installing SS studs. Should I put red loctite on it or??? Thanks!
Old Jul 16, 2012, 07:18 AM
  #7  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (25)
 
GTijoejoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,110
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Originally Posted by 10isace
I just took mine out and installing SS studs. Should I put red loctite on it or??? Thanks!
No I wouldn't do that. Just thread them in.... sometimes these things get really stuck in there and are really hard to get off even without lock tite.
Old Jul 16, 2012, 01:09 PM
  #8  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (12)
 
10isace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: East of the Rockies
Posts: 1,048
Received 14 Likes on 9 Posts
Originally Posted by GTijoejoe
No I wouldn't do that. Just thread them in.... sometimes these things get really stuck in there and are really hard to get off even without lock tite.
Thanks

I noticed the ARP ones allow you to tighten them with an allen wrench. I guess I'll tighten them with the 2 nuts tightened together method.
Old Jul 16, 2012, 07:05 PM
  #9  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (25)
 
GTijoejoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,110
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Originally Posted by 10isace
Thanks

I noticed the ARP ones allow you to tighten them with an allen wrench. I guess I'll tighten them with the 2 nuts tightened together method.
The allen head is really there to make sure they are fully seated, not to be 'tightened'
Studs are suppose to be 'hand tight', over tightening them will cause induced stress on the threads before you add the clamp load from tightening the nuts... they should be snug, not tight, slight difference

Good luck
Joe
Old Jul 16, 2012, 08:14 PM
  #10  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (4)
 
hatesposers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: cocoa, FL / Madison, WI
Posts: 537
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 6 Posts
Originally Posted by GTijoejoe
The allen head is really there to make sure they are fully seated, not to be 'tightened'
Studs are suppose to be 'hand tight', over tightening them will cause induced stress on the threads before you add the clamp load from tightening the nuts... they should be snug, not tight, slight difference

Good luck
Joe
Agreed.

ARP put the allen head there because newbies were putting ARP head studs into dirty threads as tight as a weakling could thread them in by hand... Unfortunately the dirt in the threads was only causing the studs to go in 3-4 threads deep, thus when torqing down the nut, it was striping out the first few threads.. Then these same newbs would go on the internet and trash ARP for "striping out my head/block"

by using the allen key you put enough leverage on to get the stud all the way down so it's seated.

I personally always chase the threads of a critical stud/bolt hole with a thread cleaning die before installing the stud/bolt.
Old Jul 16, 2012, 09:14 PM
  #11  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (12)
 
10isace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: East of the Rockies
Posts: 1,048
Received 14 Likes on 9 Posts
Originally Posted by hatesposers
Agreed.

ARP put the allen head there because newbies were putting ARP head studs into dirty threads as tight as a weakling could thread them in by hand... Unfortunately the dirt in the threads was only causing the studs to go in 3-4 threads deep, thus when torqing down the nut, it was striping out the first few threads.. Then these same newbs would go on the internet and trash ARP for "striping out my head/block"

by using the allen key you put enough leverage on to get the stud all the way down so it's seated.

I personally always chase the threads of a critical stud/bolt hole with a thread cleaning die before installing the stud/bolt.
Thanks for the thread cleaning tip. I'll do that tonight!
Old Jul 18, 2012, 11:48 AM
  #12  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (12)
 
10isace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: East of the Rockies
Posts: 1,048
Received 14 Likes on 9 Posts
Finished! I thread chased them so it when in pretty easy. I had to use a nut on them to get them to fully thread in, but I did it very lightly. Now for my hotside studs on my turbo. I have one that is 1/2 way out. It won't budge anymore! I've torched the metal near the stud, I've PB Blasted the hell out of it for 2 days. I'm almost ready to take it to a machine shop. Any ideas? Someone on another thread said ATF mixed with acetone.
Old Jul 18, 2012, 01:04 PM
  #13  
Newbie
iTrader: (20)
 
stealth mullet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Rochester Hills, MI 48307
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by hatesposers
I personally always chase the threads of a critical stud/bolt hole with a thread cleaning die before installing the stud/bolt.
Tap and die set....most used thing in my tool box.

Originally Posted by 10isace
Finished! I thread chased them so it when in pretty easy. I had to use a nut on them to get them to fully thread in, but I did it very lightly. Now for my hotside studs on my turbo. I have one that is 1/2 way out. It won't budge anymore! I've torched the metal near the stud, I've PB Blasted the hell out of it for 2 days. I'm almost ready to take it to a machine shop. Any ideas? Someone on another thread said ATF mixed with acetone.
What kind of torch are you using? An acetylene torch has never let me down. But most people do not have one or access to one.
Old Jul 18, 2012, 01:12 PM
  #14  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (12)
 
10isace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: East of the Rockies
Posts: 1,048
Received 14 Likes on 9 Posts
Originally Posted by stealth mullet
Tap and die set....most used thing in my tool box.



What kind of torch are you using? An acetylene torch has never let me down. But most people do not have one or access to one.
I'm using an acetylene torch. I tried every trick I know to get it out. I let it soak in PB for days. I torched the surrounding area for 25 sec, then I tried 40 seconds. Last one was 50 seconds. I was using the two bolts method, then a vise grip, then 2 bolts with an impact gun on low setting to back it out. Finally I tried a higher setting and SNAP!!! Machine shop time!
Name:  4836c9e6.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  322.5 KB
Old Jul 26, 2012, 11:01 AM
  #15  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (32)
 
R/TErnie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: WAR EAGLE!
Posts: 5,380
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
I use a tig torch and a nice drill. Just a pita really.

Anyone know where to find slightly LONGER studs?


Quick Reply: how to replace exhaust manifold bolts and studs



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:42 AM.