Leaving the bottom end stock like that is taking a risk, even if it should be able to handle it I would never upgrade anything more than a few simple bolt-ons without building the engine it's running off of. Hopefully you have better luck with the new engine

 

1)The cause was a coupler clamp that turned under heavy boost on its own in front of my radiator fan and it was stuck. I ran 3 fast laps on the track to where it overheated and died. I started it back up when it cooled but a rod was knocking.

2)Tuned by Yimi Sport Tunning in L.A.

3)you could tell that the ticking was really bad at start. I changed the oil and found no shavings, and replaced all the lifters. In the end I raised the car, started it and listened by the oil pan. It was crazy loud. I drained the oil again and there were shavings.

4) no oil cooler upgrade, stock oem.

 

Ah ok thanks for replying. Damn couplers blowing off and yeah that definately sucks.

 

+1

A road race tune is a lot different then a street/strip tune and most tuners tune for street/strip.

 

Sounds good guys, I will set that up with my tunner when my car is running again, and if I ever have money again lol.

 

not to rub salt in the wounds, but blowing all these motors isnt bad luck. either they werent built right, werent tuned right, or you just arent staying on top of thing good enough. they need constant attention, if something sounds or feels off, it is. you need to log often. if you just start it, drive it and treat it like a camry, you will blow it up.

 

AMS or Bucher is the way to go.

 

In my 06 STI I built the engine with Cosworth parts. Built short block with stock heads. The mistake I made was not replacing the oem oil pickup with a Killer Bee oil pickup. The oil light came on with 4,800 miles on the engine. The really bad thing is that the oil light only comes on at 2.7 psi of oil pressure. Instantly I knew the engine was going to need to be rebuilt so I did it again.

After having Out Front M.S. build it again I put it all back in but after exactly 809 miles it spun a rod bearing. They claimed that the could not find out the culprit. I say Bull ****. Rather get rid of it all together they gave me an oem STI motor for half price so I did it like a gullible dumbass. After putting 5k on the motor I traded it in for my Evo 9.

Tune and or lack of attention had nothing to do with it. There's no reason with any car why I shouldn't be able to reuse an oil pickup. Subaru uses a braised aluminum pickup that WILL break if you reinstall it. I've "to date" built 6 Subaru engines and every time I take out their oil pickup, I break it intentionally so they do even think of reusing it. Out Front never even recommended that I buy it. It was like ordering food to them. Now all the Subaru short blocks I get come fom Yimi Sport. Evo is a whole different ball park, everything that's easy to do to a Evo is a pain in the *** on a Subaru. Everything easy to do on a Subaru is a pain in the *** on an Evo. The one time I take my car to a track, it overheats because I was paying attention to my tune. I was watching my AFR and Boost but not my temp gauge. All my buddies with their subies that I built had no problems, just me......

 

I really wanted to go Buschur but it was a 6/8 week minimum wait time. I don't have that long. As far a Map, they do not by any means have a bad track record. I searched but could not find anybody with complaints that lead to MAP being a bad idea to go with. Hopefully all will go well but only time will tell. I'll be sure to post my experience

 

Some things that could help would help prevent this situation from ever happening again in a road race situation:

1. Switch to Higher Octane Fuel(100 or E85)

2. Oil Pressure Gauge

3. Water Temperature Gauge

4. Oil Temperature Gauge

5. Performing a Boost Leak Test right before motor-sport events

 

I have already installed an oil pressure gauge but not temp. The bad thing is that they are Auto Meter and do not give any warning like Prosport or Defis. And boost leaks test can only be tested by running it from what I can think of. The coupler that broke was riding against the rad shroud for what looks like a really long time. Fixed now though, day late and $4k shorter.

 

i had a built 07 sti with a 35r, everyone knows about the pickup tube issue, thats where the paying attention part comes in. research all the weak points and address them to eliminate as many potential failures as possible. your oil cooler was contaminated from the first bad motor, that wiped out the second one. i hear you on the easy things to do vs. the hard things to do. i prefer wrenching on subarus by a long shot. at least the engine is mounted the correct way.

 

I replaced the oil cooler along with the oil pump after the first engine went from the oil pickup. Oil lines to the turbo were cleaned by Out Front in their tank. Theye were all that I didnt replace. Debris was not the issue. Out Front blamed me for the use of ultra gray. They stated that some got into the oil galley in one of the cams. Bull**** again says everybody on Nasioc. On start up you are at 90psi of oil pressure. Its not J.B.Weld and even that might not hold that kind of psi. Their mechanic didnt mic it properly is all anything leads to. I got the bill and they washed their hands of it. Believe it or not, taking this engine out really really makes me miss my STI.

 

yeah, im not looking forward to swapping the engine, trans and t case. on a wrx/sti i could get the motor out and on a stand in 5 hours tops by myself.

 

You should be easily able to get the motor out of the EVO in 5 hours or less, if you have the right tools.