Maybe I am not making myself clear.

(1) The motor is not dead and it starts up just fine (after I give the mini battery a full charge if the car has been sitting).

(2) I checked the oil dip stick after having the car returned home, and there were no signs of anything.

(3) I checked the oil container I used to drain the oil 2-3 days before I took the car to the shop, and there was no sign of grainular substances whatsoever.

(4) The car does not make any noise from the head area whatsoever.

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Yes, this all sounds strange that it would happen as he was driving the car. The car does not have a fuel pressure gauge. But why would that be a concern when we are focusing on the low oil pressure light (which does not come on when I turn the car on whatsoever).

I will get those pictures up of the cam caps before the end of the week.

 

Thanks, my friend.

 

battery has been relocated correct? you could check voltage at the battery while it's running see it fits over 12. if it's not check from the back of the alternator power to chassis ground see if it's the same or higher. couldn't hurt to check grounds for voltage drops as well. put the + on battery negative and then chassis, battery negative to engineground. should be close to 0. set on voltage.

 

When I dropped the car off, the intent was to do a battery relocation but it never happened.

Just reading through the "do this" and "do that" list you gave me makes my head spin.

 

lol well it's basically to check if there's any resistance in the wiring that could cause it to not charge. so your saying if you let it idle it dies in a few minutes?

 

What I am saying is that after I do a few sprints, the car will stall after about five minutes of sitting at idle.

 

do your a/f readings on your wideband stay steady while idling? and while it's dieing

 

During idle, the A/Fs sweep through the usual spectrum of numbers. There is no sign of when the car is about to stall. It just does.

 

Pull the uicp and check for shavings in there. just use a dark and damp rag and shove it through the uicp and check the rag for shavings. I had an issue with the thrust bearing and somehow the metal shavings made it through the intercooler and into the uicp. Thus making it all the way through into the head. It was causing some serious problems that sound similar to yours. I know you said that there was no shavings in the oil pan or dipstick but they could still be in the head now.

 

I have already checked the head, my friend and the only thing I found were the good looking S2s, HLA, and GSC springs looking back at me. I even used Q-Tips to see if anything collected and nothing but traces of oil were discovered. I will check the UICP for further verification.

 

Yesterday when I got home from work, I took the valve cover off to see if there was anything wrong with the cam caps. I took some pretty detailed pictures for you all to verify. I also took some pictures of the magnet I used to confirm or deny if there was anything in the oil I drained 2-3 days prior from dropping the car off. Again, nothing.

 

I was doing some thinking today at work along the lines of getting back to the basics. I know that sometimes, especially with the EVO, there are small things that can create gremlins elsewhere and I am starting to think this is the case with the stalling. The car ONLY stalls after it is at operating temperature. The car cold starts WITHOUT any issue. I did a general search about "car stalls while warm" and noticed an array of possible causes such as:

1. coolant temperature sensor
2. cam angle sensor
3. spark plug wires
4. faulty fuel pump
5. dirty/semi-clogged throttle body
6. fuel filter
7. battery terminals
8. dirty idle control valve

Thus far, I have NOT found ANY shavings WHATSOEVER based on confirming or denying each of your recommendations.

 

sorry if i missed anything but..

you drained the oil in the car and checked it and did not see any gold flakes?

cut the oil filter open and no flakes?

so there is no flakes in the engine? if so then what was Archie talking about?

drain oil asap and check what i just mentioned above.. also check your inline filter to the turbo.

also take off the oil pressure regulator under the valve cover and inspect for anything.

if theres no flakes/ no contamination then youre good.. but dont start until you check this stuff.

also id contact me and get a Dimples drain plug magnet they kick ***.. i run them in my trans, and oil pan.

 

(1) I checked the oil dipstick (although it is not magnetized) and there was nothing.

(2) I checked the head for any shavings after removing the valve cover and there was nothing.

(3) I checked the oil container by dragging a magnet inside the container and along the bottom that I used to drain the oil 2-3 days before I dropped the car off and there was nothing. This was when I had that whole water issue I was concerned about.

I am going to drain the oil again this afternoon and check the oil filter as I just returned from Autozone. Send me a quote for both magnetic plugs you use. I am truly at a loss, my friend.

 

I have the Kiggly HLA that provides constant oil pressure, right...?