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Changing timing belt

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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 07:38 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by sr20det91
The reason you would have used a timing light on a sr20 motor is because it uses a rotor style distributer for ignition if built before 1994.When you adjust the rotor,a timing light helps. It would serve absolutely no purpose on a 4g63 with electronic/digital ignition.
Ding
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 08:01 AM
  #17  
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I use the Jay's tool set the few I have done. Nice to have the cams locked in place. Can certainly be done without though.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 08:07 AM
  #18  
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So if your careful and use the Jays/AMS tool and set it up TDC, can you carefully remove the old belt and install the new one?
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 09:00 AM
  #19  
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timing marks on cam gear should line up with valve cover. timing marks at the bottom on the oil sprocket and crank sprocket should line up as well. This applies to 4g63 motors. If you have a built 4g64 block, then the marks wont necessarily line up - theres a theread talking about timing on 4g64 blocks

Originally Posted by Evo_AK
So if your careful and use the Jays/AMS tool and set it up TDC, can you carefully remove the old belt and install the new one?
yes, follow the how to's on here, there's 2 different ones I believe
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 09:31 AM
  #20  
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I have read from dsm tuners that the relationship of the oil pump sprocket does not matter, just the crank, balancing shaft, and cam gears
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 10:00 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Frew
I have read from dsm tuners that the relationship of the oil pump sprocket does not matter, just the crank, balancing shaft, and cam gears
If it was off a tooth you'd know lol it would be ticking or clacking loud... Since you said it fired up im sure its fine.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 10:01 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Frew
I have read from dsm tuners that the relationship of the oil pump sprocket does not matter, just the crank, balancing shaft, and cam gears
Im not sure, but you're probably correct
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 10:04 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Frew
I have read from dsm tuners that the relationship of the oil pump sprocket does not matter, just the crank, balancing shaft, and cam gears
You'll want it to be in phase. If ir is 180 out you'll know it when you take the car for it's first drive.

You can do the screwdriver trick in the inspection hole. (You'll have to remove the DP IIRC on a stock turbo set up

Or

Put dot on oil pump sprocket at 12 O'Clock if the sprocket wants to turn CCW your in phase if it wants to move CW it's 180* out, turn it 360 and it'll wanna go CCW and you'll be in phase.

Works every time haha
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 10:18 AM
  #24  
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From: Orlando/ Kissimmee
Originally Posted by Frew
I have read from dsm tuners that the relationship of the oil pump sprocket does not matter, just the crank, balancing shaft, and cam gears
Yeah, well you are reading incorrect information.

The oil pump sprocket it tied to a front balance shaft and if it is not lined up then the counterweight will not be in "time" and can vibrate the engine.

The only time that the sprocket orientation doesn't matter is when you have a balance shaft removal kit installed, either a concentric shaft with no weight, or a mirage stub shaft. In that case, you would not even have a rear balance shaft installed so that information you read is wrong in several ways.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 01:57 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by sr20det91
The reason you would have used a timing light on a sr20 motor is because it uses a rotor style distributer for ignition if built before 1994.When you adjust the rotor,a timing light helps. It would serve absolutely no purpose on a 4g63 with electronic/digital ignition.
Yup. Because I told the OP to use a timing gun....

Line up the marks, fire it up, use a scan tool and double check your timing.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kaonashi
If it was off a tooth you'd know lol it would be ticking or clacking loud... Since you said it fired up im sure its fine.
There will be no piston to valve interference on one tooth off, so there would not be any "ticking or clacking", but it would not run very well.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 02:42 PM
  #27  
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There is no double checking the timing after its fired up on these engines. Your risking a very expensive disaster. After the belt is installed and before you install the covers, rotate the engine by hand 10 times checking the timing marks to make sure they keep lining up.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 02:53 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mcm308
there is no double checking the timing after its fired up on these engines. Your risking a very expensive disaster. After the belt is installed and before you install the covers, rotate the engine by hand 10 times checking the timing marks to make sure they keep lining up.
Well said

Last edited by yenny; Sep 26, 2012 at 03:01 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 02:54 PM
  #29  
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Just to clarify, everything is in line with the exception of the oil pump sprocket, it is approximately a half tooth behind, the car seems to idle and run fine, I am driving it tonight so I should be able to give you guys the full story of how it feels.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 03:02 PM
  #30  
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Oil pump sprocket should line up perfect, I hate to say that. I would expect the balance shafts to be slightly out of phase with the motor if it's off slightly. I would think you could feel that...
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