cold start ups.
Jan 5, 2013, 03:12 PM
#19
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I have to cold start mine too up here in MT, and it will throw some missfire CELs too, but runs fine after warmed up. Plus I let it run a bit before driving. I need to check my spark plugs though probably.
Jan 6, 2013, 06:59 AM
#21
hah yeah mine does the same thing! since i made this thread my evo has only almost stalled after starting it up in the morning once which was yesterday. It starts up with some struggle...i let it idle for a min before i give it any gas then when i go to back out of my parking spot letting off the gas it pretty much stalls or the revs will go sooooo low its barly reving at all i mean like the whole car shakes cause the rpm needle is a hair above 0. then when i give it some gas it struggles to even rev up! I haven't had the chance to look at any loose clamps of hoses yet but today i will and let you guys know if i found anything.
Jan 6, 2013, 07:03 AM
#22
My car does the same thing (ix) and has since it was new if temps are below about 40 degrees. I also live at higher altitude (5k') Doesn't happen at sea level. The problem is the cold start is way too rich. My wideband shows between 10 to 11 to 1 fuel, until it warms up a bit and settles to 14 to 1 or so. If I try giving it gas or driving off without warming it up (temp needle just starting to move is enough) it misses, dies, or runs on a couple cylinders and spews blue smoke. I've wanted to address the issue for a while but haven't because it forces me to let it warm up a little before driving which is good. Other than leaning out the cold start, I might try a COP ignition system which may also help. This is not from a vaccum leak (which might help because it would lean things out).
Jan 6, 2013, 07:04 AM
#23
I have a full size battery and its pretty much brand new. I bought it this past summer cause my original factory battery finally died after 6 years and about 80k miles haha. I have owned my evo since 2008 and it never really had this problem until this winter. like i said i replaced the spark plugs and the coil packs about 2 years ago. knock on wood my check engine light hasn't come on since i changed my plugs about 2 years ago. the car has ran great the past 2 years, never had any issues. I've drove from philly to utah and back 2 times in the past year or so and during those long 2,300 miles drives the car was great.
Last edited by speedfreak24; Jan 6, 2013 at 07:11 AM.
Jan 6, 2013, 08:08 AM
#24
Mine will always start and idle in the cold (20* lately) but it doesnt like to move until warmed up. If I tap the throttle to get the revs up to back out of the garage it will stumble and generally just let me know that it is a high performance machine and doesnt appreciate being taken out in freezing temperatures.
Ive also noticed that the previous owner has flashed the ECU to some extent, and that ANY time when idleing, cold, warm, wherever, it is at 14.7 AFR on the wideband. Even when I start it up and the sensor heats up, it immediately goes to 14.7 and starts moving from 14.4 to 15.2 as the ECU tries to hold it there. Not sure if thats a bad thing, but I always let the temp get at least 3/4 of the way to operating temp before driving it anyway.
Ive also noticed that the previous owner has flashed the ECU to some extent, and that ANY time when idleing, cold, warm, wherever, it is at 14.7 AFR on the wideband. Even when I start it up and the sensor heats up, it immediately goes to 14.7 and starts moving from 14.4 to 15.2 as the ECU tries to hold it there. Not sure if thats a bad thing, but I always let the temp get at least 3/4 of the way to operating temp before driving it anyway.
Jan 6, 2013, 10:36 AM
#25
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having the same issues with startups here in Canada, of course its much colder here for me. Normal temperatures in winter is around -20 to -25 C. Car is not garaged
Sometimes it take me 5-6 turns before i can get it started it. Just let it run for 4-5 min. Normally a second start after that will be OK and SES light will not appear.
The "service engine soon" light was probably a P0335 (crank shaft positioning sensor). Had that happened to me few times.
Im not heavily modded in engine. Also 0W20 seems to help with cold temperature startups. My AFR is around 14.7-15.4 when idling in cold.
Sometimes it take me 5-6 turns before i can get it started it. Just let it run for 4-5 min. Normally a second start after that will be OK and SES light will not appear.
The "service engine soon" light was probably a P0335 (crank shaft positioning sensor). Had that happened to me few times.
Im not heavily modded in engine. Also 0W20 seems to help with cold temperature startups. My AFR is around 14.7-15.4 when idling in cold.
Jan 6, 2013, 05:10 PM
#26
I don't have a wide band. i prob should get one. My evo is lightly modded just a turbo back exhaust with no cat with a tune and a manual boost controller i'm putting 300whps to the ground.
oh another thing, does anyone get frost on the inside of their front windshield? this just recently started happening. I do have about four rock chips on my windshield. I'm surprised they haven't spider-webbed. ill have to take an ice scraper to the inside to scrape off all the frost.
oh another thing, does anyone get frost on the inside of their front windshield? this just recently started happening. I do have about four rock chips on my windshield. I'm surprised they haven't spider-webbed. ill have to take an ice scraper to the inside to scrape off all the frost.
Jan 6, 2013, 06:59 PM
#27
oh another thing, does anyone get frost on the inside of their front windshield? this just recently started happening. I do have about four rock chips on my windshield. I'm surprised they haven't spider-webbed. ill have to take an ice scraper to the inside to scrape off all the frost.
Oh and another thing the surest way to crack your windshield especially with a rock chip is to let your car warm up then blast your defroster on high heat. This creates huge and uneven thermal (expansion) stress on the cold windshield. Notice how many windshield have horizontal cracks all the way across them about 8 inches high right where the defrost vents first hit it. Never pour hot water on a cold windshield to melt the ice either. I blast the defrost on medium to med high as soon as i start the car so the window can warm up and defrost gradually as the motor warms up. Then I use only enough heat to be warm and switch to other vents as soon as the windshield defrosts. The air conditioner is a desiccant (removes moisture from air) so running it with the heat up keeps things from fogging up without using the defrost setting.
Last edited by BBC; Jan 6, 2013 at 07:08 PM.
Jan 7, 2013, 01:59 AM
#29
any of you guys with startup issues have your EGR blocked off and/or removed? That's been the only change out of EVERYTHING done to my car that changed the startup speed. Cams changed the sound of the startup, but same amount of cranks got it going. Once I got rid of EGR it then took more turning over to get firing.
Still, it's always the same amount of turns, and has no issues like CEL, etc. That sounds like a sign of something wrong.
Still, it's always the same amount of turns, and has no issues like CEL, etc. That sounds like a sign of something wrong.
Jan 7, 2013, 04:49 AM
#30
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I live where even the coldest temp is at 23-4 degrees or 73 F & it also takes a minute or two to feel alive.
As im driving on auto, the gear would simply drag at gear one for abit and once its ready it would then decide to start shifting.
Happens only in the morning at first start.
As im driving on auto, the gear would simply drag at gear one for abit and once its ready it would then decide to start shifting.
Happens only in the morning at first start.