I'm having a problem with too much crankcase pressure apparently. I've searched. Motor was built a month ago, currently running EF3 and e85. Did it at 20 psi during a pull. Never did before with stock 9 turbo and more boost. I have a catch can, and am about to go check the PCV. I dont just wanna throw a spring/ziptie on it if there is a bigger problem. Other causes? Any help is appreciated.

 

Got the PCV out it seems to be working by blowing air through the end and closing in reverse. It was a little loose where the threaded part is? Could that do it? Nothing clogged between the VC vent to the catch can to the intake...

 

Buschur Racing Sells the Dip stick spring

 

I've heard thats a bandaid for the problem, although I did get a spring from the parts store to put on it. I just wanted to make sure I didnt have a bigger issue.

 

The spring is a bandaid, if the pressure can't get out via popping the dipstick out it'll find other ways... I've been lazy and haven't picked up a can yet, and after 20k on the motor my valve stem seals and valve cover gasket are leaking. Coincidence? Doubt it.

Get a proper venting system with a catch can and delete the PCV in favor of another vent.

 

relieve the pressure from the balance shaft inspection hole and get a dipstick tube with an -an fitting. this will relieve more pressure than the pcv delte

 

I was gonna get the PCV from STM as its supposed to be better than the stock one. Will this help?

 

if you're gona go with STM, get the 4 port catch can, bleed off pressure from the pcv, valve cover, dipstick, balance inspection hole. the catch can will come with all AN fittings and hardware. the pcv valve and valve cover to catch can will help relieve pressure but not as much as the dipstick and balance inspection hole.

 

i put the brake booster hose with one way check valve from a donor engine between the pcv and the intake manifold.problem solved no dipstick popping during high boost or blue smoke.

 

I had a lot of crank case pressure, as did a friend, this past track season. I had never experienced that before, and my dip stick blew twice, and catch can was constantly full. In studying the system, I realize how badly the engine was designed to illeviate the pressure. There is a large thread on this started by TSComp. One of the things I did was purchased the STM fittings immediately. What most people don't realize is with the OEM check valve, the engine is not breathing under boost, as the check valve closes. When you are under boost, is when you want the crankcase to breath as much as possible. With that, I removed the PCV immediately, and ran a line from the fitting to a catch can. All was fixed at the next track day.

Over this winter, I rebuilt my motor for a 2.3L. In realizign I may get even more crankcase pressure, I'm revamping the system again. One thing I don't like about the VTA catch can is that I don't believe it evacuates pressure enough. I talked to the Professional Awesome guys over the summer at Global Time Attack and took some time to examine their setup. The idea is to use the turbo to help draw out crankcase pressure and not just let it breathe itself. I think this is a more effective method. I have a Saikou Michi catch can on order, and am modifying the intake pipe to have two ports for both vents on the valvecover. I would like to drill a third vent, but that's just scary to do.

Most guys who only drive their cars o nthe street don't realize the crank pressure issue. But trust me, if you track the car at all, you're in for a surprise.

 

http://www.maperformance.com/product...=#.UQAIkL-9Kc0

 

It's still just a check valve, which prevents the crankcase from venting when the engine needs it most, under boost.

 

Can the balance shaft hole be tapped while everything is together? I would assume not. Would my best bet be to get the STM PCV and run it to a vented 3 port can? other 2 ports used from VC and Intake...

 

You can tap the inspection hole with everything still in place.

I don't understand you logic in venting the intake, as there's nothing to vent. The STM catch-can is vented to the atmosphere. This is why I don't think it's as effective as the "closed" option. If you chose to get the STM can, you run both lines on the valvecover as well as the balance shaft to the can. Block off any holes in the intake and the line to the IM.

 

Im not venting the intake. Currently I have a closed 2 port can, that is just ran from the VC to the CAN then back into the intake. I've heard the intake causes vacuum (albeit not too much?) through the VC... I could be wrong