OEM VIII BOV Acting Up?
Yeah I got the 9 bov, turns out the bov wasn't really the problem. This one acts just like the last one, I've come to the realization that the minor flutter I hear in rare part throttle positions is simply a side effect of going to a hallman and ditching factory boost control.
The cars main symtom that I don't like is a perceived hesitation/odd feeling while pulling. It feels like the car is "off" a touch. Maybe a minor vibration............hard to explain. Something just isn't 100%.
It is going back to STM Feb. 19th for another look. Good guys at that shop, the owner took the time to call me personally yesterday after hearing about my issue.
The cars main symtom that I don't like is a perceived hesitation/odd feeling while pulling. It feels like the car is "off" a touch. Maybe a minor vibration............hard to explain. Something just isn't 100%.
It is going back to STM Feb. 19th for another look. Good guys at that shop, the owner took the time to call me personally yesterday after hearing about my issue.
The flutter isn't from the mbc, I can induce it as well on a 3-port. From reading through your thread I assume that the stock bcs is still in the car, is the power still hooked up to it? The ebcs, stock or 3-port will click as it cycles.
I am going to say your sluggish feeling is due to one of 2 things:
1. There is an issue with the mbc and the spring is lifting letting air get past slightly
2. The wastegate does not have enough pre-load in it.
With the mbc you should be hitting 23psi before 3900 on a stock turbo.
I am going to say your sluggish feeling is due to one of 2 things:
1. There is an issue with the mbc and the spring is lifting letting air get past slightly
2. The wastegate does not have enough pre-load in it.
With the mbc you should be hitting 23psi before 3900 on a stock turbo.
Yeah, I was told there is also a fuel pressure relay that fires as the car transitions into boost which is what I can hear clicking ( sounds about right). The factory boost control solenoid is hooked up still to keep the ses light off and its zip tied somewhere in the corner of the engine bay. Where should I be seeing peak boost with the stock turbo?
I suspected the wastegate myself, but a quick pull on the actuator rod and it felt pretty solid, I couldn't really get it to budge.
I had my timing belt done about 25k miles ago at the dealer, I almost wonder if its possible that the balance shaft has slowly worked itself out of alignment and now I am feeling odd vibrations as a result. They supposedly did both during the install, and from what I have researched alot of shops have no clue about the balance shaft clocking.
I suspected the wastegate myself, but a quick pull on the actuator rod and it felt pretty solid, I couldn't really get it to budge.
I had my timing belt done about 25k miles ago at the dealer, I almost wonder if its possible that the balance shaft has slowly worked itself out of alignment and now I am feeling odd vibrations as a result. They supposedly did both during the install, and from what I have researched alot of shops have no clue about the balance shaft clocking.
Hi
I've had some luck removing part throttle bucking and flutter by changing some settings in ecuflash as per some recommendations here on EvoM.
I'm also using a crushed steel oem bov that holds over 30psi perfectly (found this out from doing a boost check)
Change
Idle stepper demand, - look at Merlins ecuflash guide and change the last column as per the guide
WGDS = 100% - change this value from 200 to 150
I would also close up the gaps on your plugs to .023 cause .028 is to big (this was told to me by Tom at TSComp and he knows his s**t.
hope this at least helps with some of your car issues.
I've had some luck removing part throttle bucking and flutter by changing some settings in ecuflash as per some recommendations here on EvoM.
I'm also using a crushed steel oem bov that holds over 30psi perfectly (found this out from doing a boost check)
Change
Idle stepper demand, - look at Merlins ecuflash guide and change the last column as per the guide
WGDS = 100% - change this value from 200 to 150
I would also close up the gaps on your plugs to .023 cause .028 is to big (this was told to me by Tom at TSComp and he knows his s**t.
hope this at least helps with some of your car issues.
The biggest place where it is evident to me that there is a problem is when you bring the car up to about 3 grand in 3rd gear at right about the 0psi mark and mash the gas. The car takes literally a one second count before I feel it pull hard. This seems very suspect to me, with the car revved that high I would expect nearly instant boost with the factory turbo in that rpm range.
I had my timing belt done about 25k miles ago at the dealer, I almost wonder if its possible that the balance shaft has slowly worked itself out of alignment and now I am feeling odd vibrations as a result. They supposedly did both during the install, and from what I have researched alot of shops have no clue about the balance shaft clocking.
Before we begin let us consider that I came to the evo 8 from an 07 Eclipse GT, with every bolt on known to man, and a 50 shot of nitrous on a 3.8 liter v6. It punched you in the mouth with power on demand, and this turbo business is kind of new to me.
The gang at STM deemed my car good as gold ( I was hoping this was the case), and after a set of BR8s were put in and regapped, throttle response was much crisper. I may have had the gap too large or too narrow, or maybe it was all in my head. But the car has a clean bill of health at this point, and I am ready for stage 2 of my plan. Time to dump the stock exhaust in favor of a turboback and upgraded o2 housing.
The gang at STM deemed my car good as gold ( I was hoping this was the case), and after a set of BR8s were put in and regapped, throttle response was much crisper. I may have had the gap too large or too narrow, or maybe it was all in my head. But the car has a clean bill of health at this point, and I am ready for stage 2 of my plan. Time to dump the stock exhaust in favor of a turboback and upgraded o2 housing.
Last edited by Ricoswave; Mar 20, 2013 at 12:04 PM.
UPDATE:
So a few weeks after the last post, I started thinking to myself " man something doesn't feel right here". Much like before the car would go great when you opened it up, but off throttle was still noticeably "off".
Well today it happened, the car finally went to **** halfway through a 40 mile commute. Car basically dropped a cylinder, I recognized this immediately and kept it out of boost long enough to get the scan tool hooked up ( I've been carrying one in the car lately). No immediate check engine light, but the tool showed a "pending" code for Open Injector Circuit Cylinder 3. I immediately checked the injector plugs for obvious signs of an issue, and saw nothing. My search then took me to the injector resistor pack, that was rusted from top to bottom.
After taking it out and testing it with a multimeter, I was able to plainly see that the cylinder 3 resistor was blown. This not only is a clear indicator of why my car took a dump today, it also is a very good sign that this phantom "surge" at low throttle positions could finally be explained and possibly fixed. I will get the part Saturday and report back. Wish me luck, if this doesn't fix the car you may see it in the Part-Out section.
So a few weeks after the last post, I started thinking to myself " man something doesn't feel right here". Much like before the car would go great when you opened it up, but off throttle was still noticeably "off".
Well today it happened, the car finally went to **** halfway through a 40 mile commute. Car basically dropped a cylinder, I recognized this immediately and kept it out of boost long enough to get the scan tool hooked up ( I've been carrying one in the car lately). No immediate check engine light, but the tool showed a "pending" code for Open Injector Circuit Cylinder 3. I immediately checked the injector plugs for obvious signs of an issue, and saw nothing. My search then took me to the injector resistor pack, that was rusted from top to bottom.
After taking it out and testing it with a multimeter, I was able to plainly see that the cylinder 3 resistor was blown. This not only is a clear indicator of why my car took a dump today, it also is a very good sign that this phantom "surge" at low throttle positions could finally be explained and possibly fixed. I will get the part Saturday and report back. Wish me luck, if this doesn't fix the car you may see it in the Part-Out section.
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