20w50 is too thick for a stock engine in the winter, in NY atleast. You said it was in 40's so I would recommend 10w30 like you said until it warms back up in your area. My buddy was running 20w50 up here and it hit -4 last month, his oil pressure skyrocketed and blew his oil seal right out of the filter housing.

I personally use 10w-30 brad penn

 

when i had a stock motor i used 10w-30 all year amsoil.

with my build motor i use 20w-50 all year around also brad benn. i dont drive my car in below freezing weather. coldest i drive is in 35-40 degree weather.

I wouldnt run anything thicker then 10w-30 on a stock motor. Reason being the Pistons ring are gapped tight and any thicker oil you might be starving the motor of oil.

 

full synthetic 10w30 for winter and 10w40 for summer

 

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf

Link to mentioned oil write up. I suggest to read it. Good info.

 

thanks guys.
Ya it is a stock motor but running a BR HTA35R. so by that article it a aftermarket (granted not a ball bearing turbo) they said to use a high zinc oil.

So with my stock block but ball bearing turbo, should i still use a regular syn oil or should i stick to the high zinc stuff?

 

This is what a very careful car collector with a multi-million dollar collection had to say about motor oil. It's probably the most informative piece I've read, and it may completely change your view on what type of oil to use.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

I have a 2010 Evo X SE. I run M1 synthetic 0W30 year round (which maintains the warranty per Mitsubishi). Temperatures here range from 20-degrees F to 95-degrees. About 20% of my miles are short (under 30 minutes) hops and the rest are long distance (200+ miles).

 

Link not working

 

1. No such thing as a MR Turbo in the USDM Market anyway

2. M1 did not cause your turbo failure PERIOD

3. The Forced Performance article is for their old JB Turbos in where the extra zinc and phos was needed due to their use of different metal types in "Their Proprietary Bearing Design". A non issue in a stock Evo turbocharger

 

My car has ran M1 EP or M1 HM 10w-30 it's entire life

Never had an oil related issue

 

jeeeez, lotta info. cool.

 

High zinc

 

amsoil 10-40 premium protection. ive had it tested for 15k miles with great results

 

As others have already said...don't run 20w-50 in a stock motor. Synthetic 10w-30 is what you should run unless you live in like Antarctica.

 

I run M1 5w30 all year n my stocerbt I don't drive in winter unless I absolutley have too on a clear dry day. But I'm thinking about switching to 0w40. It's thinner to help lube the bearings faster but still lubes good enough or a full day of racing. Well that's what I've found on other forums.

 

0w-40 isn't going to "lube your bearings faster". It says Mobil1 10w-30 right on your oil cap. Why would you listen to people on some other forum over the people that built the engine? You don't have to run Mobil1, but you should run 10w-30 unless you enjoy premature wear of your bearings.