Alright lads...

So the O2 dump that I got a great price on has a broken bolt stuck in the downpipe flange.

No big. I'm going to drill/tap/heat/weld it out. BUT... in the event that I blow up the threads... or get lazy.

Is there a reason that I couldn't just use a nut and a bolt there? I mean... there's plenty of access to both sides, so I wouldn't think it'd be problematic to get back off?

 

Nope, people do the same thing when turbo studs break. As long as the hardware is of decent grade and can be tightened enough to form a proper seal.

 

If you have a welder you can tack weld a nut onto one side of the dump making it easier for you. Be aware of what kind of metal the nut and bolt are. If you buy something that's carbon/mild steel you're asking for trouble! I'd try to put high temp anti seize on there to make sure you don't have the problem again.

 

Yup. I've run my down pipe that way with no issues. Just use good hardware.

 

For what it's worth... My DP to O2 was fine, but the one I bought off of a fellow came with a broken bolt in it (which I knew, and was reflected in the price).

Thanks though squad... hoping to have this thing up and running this week!

 

And most important! Dont forget to use antiseize...

 

God I'm using so much anti-seize...

 

You should be able to drill and extract the bolt or have a machine shop take care of that for you. If all else fails a nut and bolt should work but remember to reuse that spring bolt setup to allow for flex in the system for engine movement.

 

1. I ultimately drilled it out. Because of the angle, a few threads were torched, but I was able to recut them no problem, and the bolt threads in fine.

2. I know which bolts you're speaking of, but as a point of interest... mine was simply threaded in tight.

As for flexing... what's the deal with that? I understand the concept I suppose, but wouldn't that just create leaks?

 

When you say you simply bolted it in tight does this mean you got rid of the spring bolts?

As for your other concern the was the downpipe merges with the o2 housing there is a donut gasket which essentially allows for movement since its tapered rather than flat so it can pivot without disrupting the seal.

 

I would think you would be just fine with having to use the springs bolts. The buschur racing downpipe doesn't have a donut gasket or spring bolts and it works great. Just like everyone stated above, use lots of anti seize and some good bolts.

 

I actually have the Buschur DP (AFAIK) and it definitely used a donut gasket (car came with exhaust back in the day). The DP was bolted to the O2 housing with standard 10x1.25 pitch bolts, not spring bolts. It seemed tightish... but I impacted them out because I could and didn't care.

 

Self tapping Threaded inserts,

 

That's weird because mine doesn't have a spot for a donut gasket to seat into. It's kind of like a slip fit to the O2 housing. Maybe you could fit a donut gasket on mine, but I don't think you could.

 

My bad... I've had so much crap off of my car in the past few days I'm losing it.

DEFINITELY no donut gasket, which is good, because I couldn't find the one I bought to use anyway (haha).