Removing downpipe, bolts bound.
#1
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Removing downpipe, bolts bound.
Doing a downpipe replacement job tonight and found that two of the five bolts bound up again after initially coming loose. We had to retighten it and abort mission for fear of breaking them off. One was so bound we couldn't even get it tightened back into the turbo.
Options now:
1) snap both bolts, remove hotside and take to a machine shop for bolt extraction.
2) try to remove downpipe and hotside together and attemp to extract the bolts on the bench without breaking them. Doesn't seem that likely.
Has anyone run into this? It looks like it would be pretty tough to get a torch in there, but I guess that's a third option. Please let me know if you have any advice!
Thanks.
Options now:
1) snap both bolts, remove hotside and take to a machine shop for bolt extraction.
2) try to remove downpipe and hotside together and attemp to extract the bolts on the bench without breaking them. Doesn't seem that likely.
Has anyone run into this? It looks like it would be pretty tough to get a torch in there, but I guess that's a third option. Please let me know if you have any advice!
Thanks.
#6
Very common scenario there.
If you can find a talented operator that has had a lot of exposure to that type of thing, then you might get lucky and not break a bolt if they know what they are doing. You can remove them without snapping, I've done it plenty of times but be aware that the binding is a snowball process so if it's too far gone your in trouble no matter what, and with one of the bolts not able to be done back up, if I understand you correctly, I'd suggest you may find that bolt is un-salvageable. Good luck with it though, you'll feel about ten feet tall and bulletproof if you get them all out, there is a lot of satisfaction to be had removing them all without issues and I can tell you of plenty of qualified mechanics that have tried and failed.
Usually, you can undo the bolts to a point, then they get stuck at the dry part of the thread and this is where the thread starts to sheer, (this is the start of the snowball effect I was talking about earlier) and if it's gone to far there isn't any help you can get from a deep lubricating agent.
Using Titanium bolts with the installation back on would be something worth to consider. They do display better tolerances with the changes in temperature which will help next time if you are unbolting it. It's a pain in the **** that in some forms of motorsport you are not allowed to use Titanium bolts as some classing restrictions don't allow the use of Titanium fixings, but that's what I have to live with.
If you can find a talented operator that has had a lot of exposure to that type of thing, then you might get lucky and not break a bolt if they know what they are doing. You can remove them without snapping, I've done it plenty of times but be aware that the binding is a snowball process so if it's too far gone your in trouble no matter what, and with one of the bolts not able to be done back up, if I understand you correctly, I'd suggest you may find that bolt is un-salvageable. Good luck with it though, you'll feel about ten feet tall and bulletproof if you get them all out, there is a lot of satisfaction to be had removing them all without issues and I can tell you of plenty of qualified mechanics that have tried and failed.
Usually, you can undo the bolts to a point, then they get stuck at the dry part of the thread and this is where the thread starts to sheer, (this is the start of the snowball effect I was talking about earlier) and if it's gone to far there isn't any help you can get from a deep lubricating agent.
Using Titanium bolts with the installation back on would be something worth to consider. They do display better tolerances with the changes in temperature which will help next time if you are unbolting it. It's a pain in the **** that in some forms of motorsport you are not allowed to use Titanium bolts as some classing restrictions don't allow the use of Titanium fixings, but that's what I have to live with.
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I had this happen to my setup as well, from exhaust manifold to turbo assembly. Lubrication did not yield any results, so we broke it off. Then torched it so that it would fall through, but the torch was going out due to the temperature being too high. I eventually removed everything from exhaust manifold down, had it machined and installed new threads.
Nightmare, check in the Mitsu manual for proper torque + degree turn on next bolt/stud installations. I've been solid ever since all is back on. I understand your pain, good luck rectifying the problem.
Nightmare, check in the Mitsu manual for proper torque + degree turn on next bolt/stud installations. I've been solid ever since all is back on. I understand your pain, good luck rectifying the problem.
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#10
Thought I would share my .02 on the subject.....I as most have had the same problem and after doing my 4th dp change I developed my own method...
Firstly I did indeed soak it in PB blaster, next I used a socket setup that I could fit my small turbo torch through the middle of it and was able to apply heat at the same time as I torqued down slowly on the bolt with a 36" breaker bar and extension. After using this precise I have gotten every single one off without a problem.
Firstly I did indeed soak it in PB blaster, next I used a socket setup that I could fit my small turbo torch through the middle of it and was able to apply heat at the same time as I torqued down slowly on the bolt with a 36" breaker bar and extension. After using this precise I have gotten every single one off without a problem.
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