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Evo GeneralDiscuss any generalized technical Evo related topics that may not fit into the other forums.
Please do not post tech and rumor threads here.
Sponsored by: RavSpec - JDM Wheels Central
As I approach completion of the power/handling upgrades, I want to think a little about safety. I'm planning on going with the TeamTech Jet Pilot harnesses (which should work fine on the Evo stock seats, provide 6-point capabilities, and is SFI certified), but I don't really want to just have a harness bar considering rollover protection. So, that brings me to cages... essentially I've read through various posts and searched online, and there are lots of bolt in options. The car will be used on road race tracks regularly, but not for racing (just track days). When I get home I have to be able to remove the cage as there will be rear passengers on a regular basis (kids), so don't want to have a dangerous cage on the street. That means a bolt in cage I can get in/out in preferably no more than an hour. Looking at some of them they seem like it wouldn't be an issue, but would love to get some input from anyone who has ever installed/removed a bolt in cage on the Evo to get an idea of the install time. Initial install will be much longer of course since all the holes need to be drilled/reinforced, but I'd imagine future removal/install should be much quicker?
Not familiar w/any bolt-in roll bar that is easily removable. The only roll bar option, IMO, is the Autopower. They use the proper DOM material & is recognized by SCCA / NASA as approved
Pulling out a bolted in cage would be a real PITA. I think you need to make the decision one way or the other. Either put the roll bar in & leave it or just dont run it at all
Heres a pic of my rear seating area. Its a 2 seater only
My thoughts were to put in some large 1/4" welded-in base plates to distribute the load, then either find or fab some over-engineered bolt in cage that can use large grade 12.9 bolts (Maybe M10 or M12). The base plates would always stay in (since they are welded), and I would just unbolt the cage itself when not needed. If it takes an hour to unbolt and another hour to install, that's fine. With the large weld-in plates there shouldn't be any fatigue taking it in/out all the time.
might be nice actually to make the base plates 1" thick, with a CNC'd recess where the foot of the cage goes to prevent lateral shear forces being entirely taken by the bolts.
i have no problem with welding in anything, just the frame itself has to be removable for the street. I know some people don't want to weld due to resale value or cosmetics, but that isn't an issue with me.
