I'm having trouble dialing in a set of revolver cams.

Specs:

Revolver 262/264
Advertised Duration - 262 deg Int / 264 deg Exh
Effective Duration - 222 deg @ 1mm Int / 223 deg @ 1mm Exh
Lift - 11.4mm Int / 11.5mm Exh
Lobe Centerlines - 109 deg Int / 111 deg Exh
LSA - 110 deg

I've got a dial indicator directly on the lobe surface of cylinder 1 and it looks to be straight on and not at a canted angle. I've check crank TCD with a dialindicator and it matches all of the TDC markings on the crank and balancer pulley. The revolver cams were installed at TDC for the cams.
The numbers I am getting don't make sense to me. For the intake cam, I get a reading of 66 ATDC at 1 mm (.039 on the dial) and a reading of 257 ATDC at 1mm on the closing ramp. I was under the impression I should add the 66 + 103 [360-257] to get a subtotal of 169+180 for crankshaft rotation which is 349. I then tried to find the centerlines at 1 mm from the peak and ended up with readings of 133 and 207 making the centerline at 170 which also makes no sense to me. If I eyeball the cams when they are TDC, as compared to the stock cams, the revolvers look like they are 20 (advanced) degrees off. These cams were known to have quality issues with the timing being off, and it appears that I have a set with them. How do I get these cams to degree in properly?

 

The end result of this scenario is that the intake cam was off by 15 degrees It was lifting 1 mm at 207 degrees instead of 223 degrees. Each tooth on the cam gear is 7.5 degrees. I moved the intake cam gear 2 teeth clockwise and then advanced the engine with a big ratchet and breaker bar. I was going through the cycle, the engine clunked as internal parts contacted. When putting new cams in, always follow the advice of rotating the crank at least 3 revolutions, otherwise you'll have a lot of tears.
Noticing this wouldn't work, I moved the cam 15 degrees (two teeth) counter clockwise. I rotated the engine 6 revolutions ( the earlier clunking had made me nervous). I then proceeded to make sure the CAS was disconnected ( this will enable you to crank over the car, but it won't start) and cranked it a little bit at a time. After going through more revolutions, I cranked it for 120 seconds withno problems. I then reconnected the CAS and it started it within 5 seconds and it runs without destroying itself.

 

Good info! I used to have a set of revolvers and I'm looking for another set.

 

My intake Revolver cam was off 27* and the exhaust at 10* or so. It bent my all my valves on cylinder 4 without degreeing them.

 

I would like to sincerely thank you for posting your problems with the Revolvers, okevolutionVIII.

Your posts were the reason I degreed the cams in the first place. Otherwise I would have just put it in without thinking anything about it and I would have absolutely destroyed my engine. I also made sure to rotate the engine at least 3 crankshaft turns and started with the disabled CAS. I bought a dial indicator, a magnetic base with an adjustable arm ( all from Harbor Freight and under $30 all together), and printed out a small degree wheel off the internet. I pasted the degree wheel to some cardboard, then glued that to the crank once I had established TDC on the crank, oil pump pulley and the balancer shaft pulley. I cut out the center so I could manually rotate the engine and made the measurements a few times over just to be sure.

 

adjustable pulleys make it easy , all aftermarket cams should be degreed regardless.

 

Adjustable cam gears do help but I had to jump 15 degrees, so it was easier to jump 2 teeth. Plus the gears that I have only go 10 degrees one way or another.