Totaled? Not thinking so need help
Those are minor damages. Dont think the insurance will totaled ur car but everything can happen. So be prepare. And if they totaled just buy it back from them and part it out. U will get a lot more money.
I am not gonna take the time to read all of this...
in short... Wide body kit!!!
it will cover the rear door and quarter, replace the fender, and look sick as ****... you will only need the door then and a headlight which you can be a jew and pick up non hid's new or a used hid off of ebay... 1500 for oem is a bit much i know... i shattered mine a few years back.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300914511046...84.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2007-MITSUBISHI-LANCER-EVO-8-9-35MM-WIDE-FRONT-FENDERS-Duro-Flexi-B-MAGIC-/200924352678?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec80650a6&vxp=mtr
you need a paint job either way... so this will be much cheaper in total but i cant lie... preping the kits will be a nightmare and pretty expensive... i'd see if the insurance will work with you on it
in short... Wide body kit!!!
it will cover the rear door and quarter, replace the fender, and look sick as ****... you will only need the door then and a headlight which you can be a jew and pick up non hid's new or a used hid off of ebay... 1500 for oem is a bit much i know... i shattered mine a few years back.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300914511046...84.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2007-MITSUBISHI-LANCER-EVO-8-9-35MM-WIDE-FRONT-FENDERS-Duro-Flexi-B-MAGIC-/200924352678?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec80650a6&vxp=mtr
you need a paint job either way... so this will be much cheaper in total but i cant lie... preping the kits will be a nightmare and pretty expensive... i'd see if the insurance will work with you on it
Thanks everyone for your response and help. Car is now at my neighbors body shop so we will see what they said. To the person asking no the hood was not hurt at all! The doors can be straightened from what my neighbor was telling me so we'll see if that's a possibility. I'm not totaling the car out I don't wanna deal with a salvage title and the fact that my insurance company I don't believe will insure my car any longer if its a salvage title but I haven't called them yet because I wanna avoid the claim if the car is totaled. Got the fender off like I said and there's no frame damage. The main thing I'm worried about is the rear quarter panel.
Both doors open fine so I believe they will be salvageable with only small indentations on both of them. Bumper can just use paint on the rear. If the car has to sit and be fixed bit by bit that's probably gonna be how it goes unfortunately. Sucks I almost had the car paid off but I was gonna get a cheap DD anyways so I will just take my time and repair it.
Honestly with the fender and headlight replaced and some paint you probably couldn't tell it was messed up minus the rear quarter being bent towards the wheel well and rear door curvature.
Thanks a lot guys keep the input coming I will give ya'll an estimate on the damage done and if my neighbors think it will be totaled or not!
Will upload more pics when I get the car back from the shop unless I do file a claim because it will not be totaled.
Under fender. Everything is good to go! Side skirts are also damage free as well as front bumper! (Front bumper is jacked but previously and was gonna replace it later down the road anyways so no biggie)
Both doors open fine so I believe they will be salvageable with only small indentations on both of them. Bumper can just use paint on the rear. If the car has to sit and be fixed bit by bit that's probably gonna be how it goes unfortunately. Sucks I almost had the car paid off but I was gonna get a cheap DD anyways so I will just take my time and repair it.
Honestly with the fender and headlight replaced and some paint you probably couldn't tell it was messed up minus the rear quarter being bent towards the wheel well and rear door curvature.
Thanks a lot guys keep the input coming I will give ya'll an estimate on the damage done and if my neighbors think it will be totaled or not!
Will upload more pics when I get the car back from the shop unless I do file a claim because it will not be totaled.
Under fender. Everything is good to go! Side skirts are also damage free as well as front bumper! (Front bumper is jacked but previously and was gonna replace it later down the road anyways so no biggie)
Also here are all the parts I've added up price wise. From TradeMotion shipping will not exceed 10% of total price so shipping won't be too bad if I go this route and my neighbors can't find salvaged parts or even cheaper parts than this! Trying to find headlights used cause ONE oem hid is $1040!! Ouch
•Outer rear door shell $330
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...t=Door%20shell
•Outer Front Door Shell $473
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...t=Door%20shell
•Front Right Fender $288
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...mponent=Fender
•Quarter Panel $280 (seen up to $500 for this will see what it needs)
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...agramCallOut=1
RearBumper $610 (may not need to buy believe paint is all it needs)
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...Bumper%20cover
Headlight HID Assembly Right $1040
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/2003/MITSUBISHI/LANCER/EVOLUTION/?siteid=213934&vehicleid=1421446§ion=ELECTRICA L&group=FRONT%20LAMPS&subgroup=HEADLAMP%20COMPONEN TS&component=Headlamp%20assy
•Outer rear door shell $330
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...t=Door%20shell
•Outer Front Door Shell $473
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...t=Door%20shell
•Front Right Fender $288
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...mponent=Fender
•Quarter Panel $280 (seen up to $500 for this will see what it needs)
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...agramCallOut=1
RearBumper $610 (may not need to buy believe paint is all it needs)
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...Bumper%20cover
Headlight HID Assembly Right $1040
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/2003/MITSUBISHI/LANCER/EVOLUTION/?siteid=213934&vehicleid=1421446§ion=ELECTRICA L&group=FRONT%20LAMPS&subgroup=HEADLAMP%20COMPONEN TS&component=Headlamp%20assy
Last edited by AdrenalineRush; Jun 6, 2013 at 03:38 AM.
your not going to find out until you get it looked at. You will have time to decide what you want to do after they work up the estimate or total it to figure out if you want to buy it back. just be prepared-- so what did you side swipe?
Yea I know they are supposed to look at it today and since they are my neighbors I'll make them help me out with a better deal lol. Passenger side. It really doesn't look to bad if the fender and headlight are replaced and the white scuffing marks are wiped clear.
And I'm NOT parting it out lol way to much money invested to deal with doing it all over again
They totaled my 03 with 120k miles with almost the exact same damage, quarter panel was worse but everything else is the same. Bought it back for 1000 and have been slowly putting it back together. With the Oklahoma weather it has been hell finding a body shop that will take the job especially since its a cash deal and they'd rather overcharge insurance companies.
They totaled my 03 with 120k miles with almost the exact same damage, quarter panel was worse but everything else is the same. Bought it back for 1000 and have been slowly putting it back together. With the Oklahoma weather it has been hell finding a body shop that will take the job especially since its a cash deal and they'd rather overcharge insurance companies.
With regard to insurance, it isn't about what you can get away with doing and in most cases it isn't about what you think you can fix. The insurance adjuster will see more than 1-2 hours of repair time on a part and they will write it for replacement. minor ding in a fender, pull and fill. three dings, a wrinkle, etc it gets replaced. Same for doors, if you have a grind, it gets a door. Anything where metal could have been stretched.
Realistically, sure like I mentioned before and I think others too, you can fix all that for $2k if you play your cards right, hell maybe less. Insurance adjusters do their job; unless they have a reason to try to save the car (its a big loss and you've been with the insurance company a week etc), they are not going to try to save you money they are going to write the estimate like normal.
Realistically, sure like I mentioned before and I think others too, you can fix all that for $2k if you play your cards right, hell maybe less. Insurance adjusters do their job; unless they have a reason to try to save the car (its a big loss and you've been with the insurance company a week etc), they are not going to try to save you money they are going to write the estimate like normal.
With regard to insurance, it isn't about what you can get away with doing and in most cases it isn't about what you think you can fix. The insurance adjuster will see more than 1-2 hours of repair time on a part and they will write it for replacement. minor ding in a fender, pull and fill. three dings, a wrinkle, etc it gets replaced. Same for doors, if you have a grind, it gets a door. Anything where metal could have been stretched.
Realistically, sure like I mentioned before and I think others too, you can fix all that for $2k if you play your cards right, hell maybe less. Insurance adjusters do their job; unless they have a reason to try to save the car (its a big loss and you've been with the insurance company a week etc), they are not going to try to save you money they are going to write the estimate like normal.
Realistically, sure like I mentioned before and I think others too, you can fix all that for $2k if you play your cards right, hell maybe less. Insurance adjusters do their job; unless they have a reason to try to save the car (its a big loss and you've been with the insurance company a week etc), they are not going to try to save you money they are going to write the estimate like normal.
Are you saying $2k playing cards right paying outta pocket or through the insurance adjuster. Sorry I'm new at this as you can tell :/
Yeah $2k with used parts, minor metal repair (nothing serious on the doors and repairing the rear quarter rather than replacing it), and a budget paint job on affected panels only, no blending. If you shop the paint work around and hold out on parts for the best price (ie, wait until a $300 headlight shows up rather than spending $700 to have it right away etc), you may get it even lower.
If they see $4k+ doing a private estimate, odds are they would total it. Again keep in mind the insurance company is probably going to come out of the gate with an $8k value on the vehicle, maybe upwards of 11k... they won't base it on what they are selling for, they will base it on third party evaluations which are typically pretty low by comparison on this car, plus mileage etc factored in.
If you owe money on the car, unless its going to be 6k or something to fix which I doubt, I wouldn't report it. Between the potential for totaling it which you said you didn't want , the potential for losing the car and owing money (you can't buy it back for 10% if you owe money on it, the bank gets the difference unless someone goofs up), your insurance likely sky rocketing or even getting dumped... you are better of fixing it yourself.
If you don't owe anything on it you could go either way, but your insurance will go up regardless, if they total it you can buy it back for 10% of the payout usually (some companies are ~15%, some refuse to offer this) and have a dirt cheap evo. Your VIN will be flagged with a wreck and depending on damage to value dollar it may or may not be on the title. I've seen some just barely get punted and the title comes back clean. Deep in it is usually rebuildable and if the car wiped the hell out it will get certificate of destruction..... these guidelines vary by state however..... for example you can have a motorcycle wreck in VA that has literally no straight parts on it, 100% damaged, and it will get a rebuildable title. You can have a motorcycle get knocked over in a parking lot and have a dent in the tank or frame in Florida and they will COD the title. It all depends on the state in addition to dollar amounts.
If they see $4k+ doing a private estimate, odds are they would total it. Again keep in mind the insurance company is probably going to come out of the gate with an $8k value on the vehicle, maybe upwards of 11k... they won't base it on what they are selling for, they will base it on third party evaluations which are typically pretty low by comparison on this car, plus mileage etc factored in.
If you owe money on the car, unless its going to be 6k or something to fix which I doubt, I wouldn't report it. Between the potential for totaling it which you said you didn't want , the potential for losing the car and owing money (you can't buy it back for 10% if you owe money on it, the bank gets the difference unless someone goofs up), your insurance likely sky rocketing or even getting dumped... you are better of fixing it yourself.
If you don't owe anything on it you could go either way, but your insurance will go up regardless, if they total it you can buy it back for 10% of the payout usually (some companies are ~15%, some refuse to offer this) and have a dirt cheap evo. Your VIN will be flagged with a wreck and depending on damage to value dollar it may or may not be on the title. I've seen some just barely get punted and the title comes back clean. Deep in it is usually rebuildable and if the car wiped the hell out it will get certificate of destruction..... these guidelines vary by state however..... for example you can have a motorcycle wreck in VA that has literally no straight parts on it, 100% damaged, and it will get a rebuildable title. You can have a motorcycle get knocked over in a parking lot and have a dent in the tank or frame in Florida and they will COD the title. It all depends on the state in addition to dollar amounts.
Yeah $2k with used parts, minor metal repair (nothing serious on the doors and repairing the rear quarter rather than replacing it), and a budget paint job on affected panels only, no blending. If you shop the paint work around and hold out on parts for the best price (ie, wait until a $300 headlight shows up rather than spending $700 to have it right away etc), you may get it even lower.
If you don't owe anything on it you could go either way, but your insurance will go up regardless, if they total it you can buy it back for 10% of the payout usually (some companies are ~15%, some refuse to offer this) and have a dirt cheap evo. Your VIN will be flagged with a wreck and depending on damage to value dollar it may or may not be on the title. I've seen some just barely get punted and the title comes back clean.
If you don't owe anything on it you could go either way, but your insurance will go up regardless, if they total it you can buy it back for 10% of the payout usually (some companies are ~15%, some refuse to offer this) and have a dirt cheap evo. Your VIN will be flagged with a wreck and depending on damage to value dollar it may or may not be on the title. I've seen some just barely get punted and the title comes back clean.
Again thanks I will let ya know what happens. Regardless not gonna file insurance truly with not only my rate going up but like you're saying title being screwed over more than likely. Sucks to suck in my case can't believe this happened
$1440 owed if the insurance will let you buy it back they probably will. It's when the total amount is too close to the amount owed that you run into an issue usually. If your company is a stickler for keeping stuff easy, they may just flat out deny it since it would be a considerable amount more paper work with you not having the title. If you owned it outright it is just a matter of them flagging the title with the DMV. If a bank holds the title it adds more steps rather than just sending the bank a check and being done with it. They have to wait for the title to change hands/lien release to go through, then report the flag hopefully before a slick guy goes and sells the car while the title is still clean (yes, that happens, I have one in my parking lot for about 8 years now that this happened with and I can't do anything with it).
See what the damage report is from your guy. He might be able to macguyver that thing for pennies on the dollar for all we know.
See what the damage report is from your guy. He might be able to macguyver that thing for pennies on the dollar for all we know.



