I have the HKS now and it's awful.

 

I went from a stock ix that's been crushed to a synaspe bov and let me tell you the difference is very noticeable. The synaspe bov is way better as a dd. Sound is about the same if anything a bit louder but I run 31 psi. If your buying a new stock bov just go straight to the synapse. I'm assuming that the fluttering is because you're not running a dedicated line to the bov. You have it t'd with your boost controller and it is interfering with it, causing the flutter. The stock ix bov will flutter from time to time and on your driving habit.

 

Fyi my stock bov didn't flutter until I crushed it which was a mistake to do in my opinion. I should of just left it alone. My synaspe flutters from time to time but ii think it's just my driving habit. I tend to drive it on 0-5 lbs and lighty have my foot on the gas so it easy to make it flutter so I can't tell if it's me or the car

 

because my car is a daily driving my goal is to go between 400 whp to 500 whp but i wanna keep my stock turbo. what i put in my car so far is the exhaust with the pipes, ets intake, ets intercoolers pipes and bigger intercooler, boost control solenoid, and aem gauges( boost, air/fuel ratio, oil) but i have stock bov, fuel pump. I need to get it tune because i put all of that this past 2 weeks.

 

the one that your are talking about is Synapse Synchronic bov right

 

Where should i tee it then? I have it teed in the intake manifold, before it never fluttered. Someone on here said it flutters because there is more air in the system due to my bigger 25g turbo with a 3.25" intake

 

Yes sir.

 

You need to add it to your lower intercooler pipe. What Im doing is welding a 1/4 piece of metal on the pipe where the factory nipple should be then pipe tapping it for a 1/8 inch nipple. Our you can cut s nipple of from some old parts like an old fpr or throttle body and have some one drill and weld it in your pipe. What happens is the boost controller is a vacuum leak and when it leak air out your bov isn't sealing right and is fluttering due to the inconsistency of pressure moving back and forth.

 

Or do the egr delete and user one is the nipples that will free up.

 

Fix all your leaks and problems before the tune. You will be wasting money to tune first. Bov is a must fix or replace (depending on boost level) before a tune. If you tune your car and then replace the bov you will have to get it retuned. Same with leaking lines and what nots. Do the fuel pump too. I drive my car around in e85 and put down 404hp/410tq on a Mustang dyno. Stock turbo, completely stock block and will be making more soon after I put in an o2 and port everything.

 

We had a Synapse BOV on a 450whp STi @ 30psi and it worked well, but like the others have said, it is really pointless until you are over 25psi.

 

Thats what I did and its still making that noise, is there a specific nipple to use?

 

Is it on a line by itself? If it is you might need to adjust it? What bov are you currently using?

 

Evo 9 bov

 

I agree run the 9 BOV but I run and particularly love the tial BOV