Had autometer ultralite phantom series in my gsx and they worked fine. good gauge for the price.

 

I had three Ultralight series in my old car, looked nice, good quality and never had a problem. I got them for a really good price on Ebay too, so that helps {thumpup}

 

I've also used the autometer phantom white faced gauges. Only used it for boost. Not sure if I would trust them with much more. EGT & Temp gauges - I would look elsewhere. Definately invest in peak/hold or playback features.

 

I use autometer gauges exclusively.. But there **IS** a difference between the Cobolt, Carbon, Autogage, etc line and the premium series gauges, Ultralight, Sport-Comp, and Pro-Comp.. Keep that in mind.. the latter are high quality premium gauges which are accurate, and tested extensively. The other ones are more of an eye-candy gauge which works and is accurate, but the quality and durability just aren't as good.

If you want dead on accurate gauges, you need to use mechanical gauges whenever possible. Electrical gauges are effected by temperature, connections (Must solder everything or they may read innacurate) and depending on the sender, you may have some issues because their basically OEM senders adapted for aftermarket use.

I've been using Sport-Comp and Pro-Comp gauges for almost 20 years now.. they are attractive looking, stand up to the abuse of hardcore racing, rarely fail (I only had one gauge ever fail, and it was electric, but was replaced at no charge)

I think there is a misconception that the more expensive the gauge, the better quality.. the more expensive the gauge, the more expensive it is.. most are calibrated using the same methods. There are some really expensive gauges out there, but mostly have eye-candy appeal, I really don't care about an Electroluminescent background, I really don't care about a "startup sequence" where it does all sorts of cool dances when you power them up, or the fact that they turn completely black when their powered off ...

Its really a personal expression when your dealing with gauges on the street.. but Get what you like, but do your research, people who say that Defi gauges or some other brand gauges are more accurate than the high-end versions of the autometer are definitely not talking from experience.

Besides, Accuracy and Precision are two different things..

 

I have the C2, with the blue led lighting, (boost and EGT), they are great, accurate and look good.

 

I also have these guages. Haven't had any problems. Know lots of people who use them too.

 

I have an autometer boost gauge in my car right now. That thing is a cheap piece of crap, I will never by an autometer gauge ever again. The boost needle is not accurately set at 0 psi. I'm like 2psi off. Remember you get what you pay for.

 

Have you tried to get it replaced or repaired? I've had good luck with these types of things before..... Remember, any brand of gauge can produce a bad one...

 

I have autometer "Cobalt series" guages, both boost & air/fuel. Boost reads accurately & air/fuel seems pretty close to actual uego readings.

Problem, boost guage started flipping out the other day, needle stayed in vacum & wouldn't move, then started to go up & down with the car off.

Solution, i plugged the connection out at the back of the guage & then plugged it back in. It started to work perfectly since that, & still read accurate. That was 2 weeks ago, still watching it.

My friend had the same problem with his "cobalt" autometer boost guage.

Used autometer phantom boost guage in my previous car, that was Sh*t. Was showing 10 psi but really boosting 13 psi.

 

I have a 30 psi boost gauge in my Talon. For the $50 it cost me you can't complain. It's accurate and reliable but it is a mechanical gauge and you are going to have more wires than an electronic gauge or something with a control module. It doesn't have the bling bling effect that some of $250+ gauges on the market but then you're comparing apples to oranges.

 

Mechanical boost gauges sometimes need minor calibration before use. Some of them are sealed so if they do not read "0" when not in use, they are probably unusable and should be replaced/returned. I've got a Sport Comp Boost/vac gauge and it seems to work just fine. I'm replacing it with the 52mm Greddy Electronic gauges (boost/vac & EGT). The Greddy gauges look pretty good and should work well. They are electronic so all I run into the cabin is wires.
I will say that the Autometer Gauges look good, work well and are practically half the price of the Greddy gauges. Yes, you get more for your money, but not necessarily in functionallity or effectiveness. The biggest advantage of the more expensive gauges is the aesthetic appeal, electronic vs. mechanical connections and special bells & whistles such as peak hold, alarms, etc. If all you want to do is watch your boost or egt temps, the Autometer are perfectly good enough.

 

I almost bought the autometer gauges but changed my mind at the last minute and bought Blitz BLM gauges. I picked the BLM mainly because of they way they looked at night and during the day. I have no idea if they are any better or worse than the autometer ones I almost bought. I just got them today, but they will be sitting on the table for a while until the freeken 60mm triple gauge pod a pillars are available. Which at this rate will be never...

 

Does your Automoter Boost Gauges rest on zero when the car is off?

 

Mine do. I've had them before that did not (maybe they were not even Autometer) and they were considered bad by my installer and we sent them back. Also, I dropped an Autometer boost gauge on the floor and it got dented and the needle moved past the 4 p.s.i. mark....... Needless to say, i did not use it.

 

to me for the price they are great gauges, not as bling bling as others but they are nice. Ask nascar drivers if they are or not accurate.