No.
No.
No.

Pick up an oil pressure gauge and have it ready prior to starting up the motor. Otherwise, follow Buschur break-in procedures. Doesn't sound like you need much other wise.

 

That's pretty much what I thought too.
My dad has been working on cars for 30+ years and has been a master tech at Ford for the last 15 years. The engine, trans, etc is in his garage because that's where I'm doing the swap. I haven't really gotten to look over the engine much yet, but he has and he's scrutinizing every little detail.
I understand that he wants this to go smoothly and for there not to be any problems, but I know how much work went into this engine and I've also personally been in the car this engine came out of before the build. The guy I bought it from is meticulous with maintenance and I have no question that everything that needed to be done, was done.

 

So is there anything else I should be getting before I put this in?
Right now I have:
- stock intercooler
- tbe
- injen licp, uicp, intake
- magnus v3 smim
- evo 9 bov
- hallman pro mbc
- egr delete
- sparktech non-cdi cop
- aem fuel rail
- fuelab fpr
- presicion 880's

And then I got a buschur double pumper w/ (2) modified walbro 255's and the comp. clutch twin disc gear drive clutch kit as part of the deal.

I know I'll need bigger injectors for sure because this engine is really meant for e85, but i was wondering if I would be able to run it on 93 with the 880's and if anyone knows if this engine will run on a pretty much stock tune (minus the injector scaling for the 880's). I would only do this for break-in and would then get bigger injectors for the e85 tune.

I have an aem wideband and defi boost, oil pressure, and egt gauges, so I could at least see if the engine is running too rich, lean, etc. I also have a tactrix cable and have datalogged my car before.

 

-Conventional oil and good filters for engine break-in.
-Drivetrain fluids.
-New BOV since the stocker will likely leak once you fully tune the car and make realy power!
-Consider deleting the oil cooler temporarily during the break-in. It's not necesasry, but I did it to prevent particles getting into my new cooler.

You should appreciate the old man's "analness." You dont' want to run into issues once it all goes together.

 

The seller is giving me (2) cases of Brad Penn break-in oil and regular oil, along with t-case fluid. I will get the redline trans fluid straight from Shep just to make sure I run what he recommends.
Conveniently enough, he included an oil cooler delete plug because he deleted it off of his car. Will I run into any issues if I just don't run one?

And I do appreciate my father's insight, it just gets a little annoying at times haha.

Thanks for the help, btw.

 

For break-in, no. I ran 1000 miles without one. For daily driving, I also don't see any issues. However, if you like in a climate that gets very hot and humid, I suggest keeping it. Many of the drag guys delete the oil cooler. I like having one personally...just didn't installed mine until the motor was broken in.

Another piece of advice is to write eveything you do during the break-in down on paper. I tracked all of my oil changes and intervals when I did mine; tracked oil types, viscosity, mileage, etc. Continually check oil levels too. ALso keep in mind you will "lose" oil when you install the oil cooler. Between the cooler and lines, you'll have to add nearly 2/3 quart from my experience.

 

Very good advice. I do this with my cars just for routine maintenance and will definitely keep a log of how much / how often / etc..

Would you recommend running an oil cooler? If so, any recommendations?

Also, referring to a previous post, do you think this engine would run on 93 on a stock tune that was scaled for 880cc injectors? I would like to do the break-in on 93 if possible, but I don't want to mess anything up

 

Running without the oil cooler is fine. I did. I even got tuned without it.

Get your tuner to send you a base tune for break-in. Let the person know exactly everything you know about the motor. Any good tuner should be able to help put something together for you.

 

What I meant to ask was 'Would you recommend running a catch can? if so, any recommendations?' haha

 

as everyone else has said, get receipts for absolutely every part. If it's missing, assume it's not there.

 

better off with the oil cooler

 

Yes, its a good idea to run one. I like the closed loop Saiko Michi cans the most. Run them in my own car, as do many of my friends. You will get a fair amount of blow-by during breakin-in as the rings seat. It will taper off, but still depends on the tolerance of the engine build.

 

I'm in the process now of getting every piece of information I can from the seller. I have pictures of receipts with his card number for almost every part, but he's going to compile the hard copies for me as soon as he can.

I've seen these around a lot lately. Is there anything in particular that makes them better than the competition? Which model would you suggest?

I'm going to agree with you. I'll block it off during break in as Chu said, but I'll run it again after that.

 

Please provide the sellers screen name so we can make sure he doesn't try to actually sell his car as a "stock" car.

 

Hey, sorry I haven't updated in a while. The guy's name is Maradits on here, here is his thread selling my stock trans, t-case, and long block.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...sfer-case.html

The trans and t-case were sold literally the night he took them home from my house, but I think the long block might still be available. He even used my car's exact mileage in his post haha.

Btw, he sold his car as a shell about a month ago, so there will be no issues with 'put back to stock' car selling.

As a general update, I have all of my parts now and am preparing to put everything back together this weekend.

Also, if anyone has a Saikou Michi dual catch can setup they want to sell, please PM me. (Or any decent 2-in, 2-out unit for that matter).