MAF vs Speed Density Intake
You to be setup for speed density and tuned for it before getting an intake for it. Its basically just an intake that eliminates the maf connection portion. Just like a straight tube off the turbo. Power gains are minimal at your power level but drive ability is much improved. Way smoother than MAF tunes. Also has a few benefits such as driving with huge boost leaks and cleaning up your engine bay. If you have the extra money go for it but you could spend your money in a lot better places for power. Like other said its usually for big power guys or for a better smoother driving experience.
All your current mods plus the ones you mentioned should make for a fun street car
I know man, I'm just giving you a hard time. We've all been there. I was just saying instead of asking on here and getting decent answers, take a trip down to ER and have them give you 100% answers cause they're all Evo guru's down there.
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Because elevation changes will affect the density correction.
Excerpt from this site: http://support.moates.net/theory-speed-density/
Weaknesses of Speed-Density
Speed-Density is known for having several notable issues:
Density correction, density correction, density correction. You might not think that temperature is that big of a deal, but trust me it is! Seasonal changes can wreak havoc on speed-density systems. Superchargers or turbochargers that compress air and raise its temperature from adiabatic heating cause significant changes in density that must be accounted for. Altitude can also be really problematic. Many systems incorporate Barometric Pressure sensors to try to address this, but it’s an imperfect correction.
Excerpt from this site: http://support.moates.net/theory-speed-density/
Weaknesses of Speed-Density
Speed-Density is known for having several notable issues:
Density correction, density correction, density correction. You might not think that temperature is that big of a deal, but trust me it is! Seasonal changes can wreak havoc on speed-density systems. Superchargers or turbochargers that compress air and raise its temperature from adiabatic heating cause significant changes in density that must be accounted for. Altitude can also be really problematic. Many systems incorporate Barometric Pressure sensors to try to address this, but it’s an imperfect correction.
Last edited by pr0phet; Aug 26, 2014 at 03:55 PM.
Because elevation changes will effect the density correction.
Excerpt from this site: http://support.moates.net/theory-speed-density/
Weaknesses of Speed-Density
Speed-Density is known for having several notable issues:
Density correction, density correction, density correction. You might not think that temperature is that big of a deal, but trust me it is! Seasonal changes can wreak havoc on speed-density systems. Superchargers or turbochargers that compress air and raise its temperature from adiabatic heating cause significant changes in density that must be accounted for. Altitude can also be really problematic. Many systems incorporate Barometric Pressure sensors to try to address this, but it’s an imperfect correction.
Excerpt from this site: http://support.moates.net/theory-speed-density/
Weaknesses of Speed-Density
Speed-Density is known for having several notable issues:
Density correction, density correction, density correction. You might not think that temperature is that big of a deal, but trust me it is! Seasonal changes can wreak havoc on speed-density systems. Superchargers or turbochargers that compress air and raise its temperature from adiabatic heating cause significant changes in density that must be accounted for. Altitude can also be really problematic. Many systems incorporate Barometric Pressure sensors to try to address this, but it’s an imperfect correction.
I would be interested in hearing Aaron/English's response to this as I have never heard of any cons to running sd only the benefits.
I just finished installing my MAP O2 dump and I'd highly recommend it. The downpipe is top notch quality and fits like a glove. Boost holds perfectly thanks to the dump and it's loud as hell if you're into that
. One thing you should look into is a 3 port boost control solenoid. They are slightly more expensive than your standard MBC, but they give you the ability to run gear based boost control. The only downside is that it will have to be tuned accordingly, but that's essential if you plan to keep modding.
We have tested the SD conversion going from sea level to 6000' in the same day. This was ECMlink in Luke's car but the coding is the same and has no barometric "correction" other than normal MAP function -
As far as seasonal changes, 70*F air temp change one way or the other will alter your fueling in open loop 1 full point. If you were tuned and the manifold air temp is 70* and a 12.0, then at 0* it would be a 13.0. Conversely at 140* manifold air temp it would be an 11.0.
Some of the early issues with SD wasnt the calc that the ECU was doing, it was drivability stuff in the MAF Comp table not being set. Stock is too lean when the car is cold, Myself and others cranked this up during summer and then it wasnt quite right in winter. The NW doesnt get colder than 25* normally so it took a good storm and cold weather to get the cold start in harsher conditions correct. I dont rip on a 500whp car in 25* weather normally so other than some parking lot fun I didnt have much testing.
Aaron
As far as seasonal changes, 70*F air temp change one way or the other will alter your fueling in open loop 1 full point. If you were tuned and the manifold air temp is 70* and a 12.0, then at 0* it would be a 13.0. Conversely at 140* manifold air temp it would be an 11.0.
Some of the early issues with SD wasnt the calc that the ECU was doing, it was drivability stuff in the MAF Comp table not being set. Stock is too lean when the car is cold, Myself and others cranked this up during summer and then it wasnt quite right in winter. The NW doesnt get colder than 25* normally so it took a good storm and cold weather to get the cold start in harsher conditions correct. I dont rip on a 500whp car in 25* weather normally so other than some parking lot fun I didnt have much testing.
Aaron
Here's my 0.02c with SD experience thus far:
Cons:
1. Cold start requires throttle input for the car to idle, until it warms up (can be PITA when people start their cars to warm up in the winter while getting ready to leave the house)
2. After long drive and coming to a stop, idle becomes radical and wants to stall a lot (maybe pressure difference causing it when going from 1900ft above sea level to 10ft, all I know MAF didn't have this problem)
3. Any car restart results in lean and low idle after shut off
Pros:
1. Car still drives fine after ic pipe pops off
So from my experience I would probably rather have MAF as the cons for me outweigh the pros, unless my tune isn't perfect and that's why it's doing that.
Cons:
1. Cold start requires throttle input for the car to idle, until it warms up (can be PITA when people start their cars to warm up in the winter while getting ready to leave the house)
2. After long drive and coming to a stop, idle becomes radical and wants to stall a lot (maybe pressure difference causing it when going from 1900ft above sea level to 10ft, all I know MAF didn't have this problem)
3. Any car restart results in lean and low idle after shut off
Pros:
1. Car still drives fine after ic pipe pops off
So from my experience I would probably rather have MAF as the cons for me outweigh the pros, unless my tune isn't perfect and that's why it's doing that.
As far as seasonal changes, 70*F air temp change one way or the other will alter your fueling in open loop 1 full point. If you were tuned and the manifold air temp is 70* and a 12.0, then at 0* it would be a 13.0. Conversely at 140* manifold air temp it would be an 11.0.
Some of the early issues with SD wasnt the calc that the ECU was doing, it was drivability stuff in the MAF Comp table not being set. Stock is too lean when the car is cold, Myself and others cranked this up during summer and then it wasnt quite right in winter. The NW doesnt get colder than 25* normally so it took a good storm and cold weather to get the cold start in harsher conditions correct. I dont rip on a 500whp car in 25* weather normally so other than some parking lot fun I didnt have much testing.
Aaron
Some of the early issues with SD wasnt the calc that the ECU was doing, it was drivability stuff in the MAF Comp table not being set. Stock is too lean when the car is cold, Myself and others cranked this up during summer and then it wasnt quite right in winter. The NW doesnt get colder than 25* normally so it took a good storm and cold weather to get the cold start in harsher conditions correct. I dont rip on a 500whp car in 25* weather normally so other than some parking lot fun I didnt have much testing.
Aaron
hahaha come up to my neck of the woods, I'll provide you with some good data of seasonal changes. We go from 85-90F to -40F
Here's my 0.02c with SD experience thus far:
Cons:
1. Cold start requires throttle input for the car to idle, until it warms up (can be PITA when people start their cars to warm up in the winter while getting ready to leave the house)
2. After long drive and coming to a stop, idle becomes radical and wants to stall a lot (maybe pressure difference causing it when going from 1900ft above sea level to 10ft, all I know MAF didn't have this problem)
3. Any car restart results in lean and low idle after shut off
Pros:
1. Car still drives fine after ic pipe pops off
So from my experience I would probably rather have MAF as the cons for me outweigh the pros, unless my tune isn't perfect and that's why it's doing that.
Cons:
1. Cold start requires throttle input for the car to idle, until it warms up (can be PITA when people start their cars to warm up in the winter while getting ready to leave the house)
2. After long drive and coming to a stop, idle becomes radical and wants to stall a lot (maybe pressure difference causing it when going from 1900ft above sea level to 10ft, all I know MAF didn't have this problem)
3. Any car restart results in lean and low idle after shut off
Pros:
1. Car still drives fine after ic pipe pops off
So from my experience I would probably rather have MAF as the cons for me outweigh the pros, unless my tune isn't perfect and that's why it's doing that.
Here's my 0.02c with SD experience thus far:
Cons:
1. Cold start requires throttle input for the car to idle, until it warms up (can be PITA when people start their cars to warm up in the winter while getting ready to leave the house)
2. After long drive and coming to a stop, idle becomes radical and wants to stall a lot (maybe pressure difference causing it when going from 1900ft above sea level to 10ft, all I know MAF didn't have this problem)
3. Any car restart results in lean and low idle after shut off
Pros:
1. Car still drives fine after ic pipe pops off
So from my experience I would probably rather have MAF as the cons for me outweigh the pros, unless my tune isn't perfect and that's why it's doing that.
Cons:
1. Cold start requires throttle input for the car to idle, until it warms up (can be PITA when people start their cars to warm up in the winter while getting ready to leave the house)
2. After long drive and coming to a stop, idle becomes radical and wants to stall a lot (maybe pressure difference causing it when going from 1900ft above sea level to 10ft, all I know MAF didn't have this problem)
3. Any car restart results in lean and low idle after shut off
Pros:
1. Car still drives fine after ic pipe pops off
So from my experience I would probably rather have MAF as the cons for me outweigh the pros, unless my tune isn't perfect and that's why it's doing that.