Nice move on the toggle switch. I usually just have my wife push the pedal when I do it the regular way. I still like the hotwire technique though because you know it is fully bled that way. Still waiting on what codes this guy is throwing here though. There are 3 as previously stated. Which one is it yacubkep??? Thanks, Jason

 

I am getting code 47. I hot wired it while it was out after cleaning it up to make sure it was good.

I have not hot wired it since it was back in the car. and just to prevent further questions.. I had code 47 before I pulled it and cleaned it and replaced the sensor.

 

47 = pressure sensor abnormal power supply. Turn the key to the on position and floor the gas pedal like you are bleeding the acd and measure how many volts you are getting at the pressure sensor plug. Report back. I'm thinking that you might be right about the acd ecu now that I know its code 47.

 

Okay all the research I've been doing is telling me you have a bad pressure sensor. The ecu is of little concern but many other threads talk about code 47 and all of them said they fixed the issue with a new pressure sensor. I know you already replaced it but I assume you got a used one, well it would appear that one is no good as well.

 

I did replace the sensor with a used one. Guy I bought it from said the motor went out in his not the sensor so he replaced the whole pump. I am going to check out the voltage on the sensor maybe today or tomorrow. Its up to the mechanics if I can bring it in the shop or not. Any one know if there is a way to trick the ACD Ecu to verify the sensor is bad? Meaning a jumper wire or a resistor on the wire... I don't want to waste another chunk of cash on a sensor if its not the problem.

 

any one have any other ideas. All I am hearing is to replace the pump. but if I get a new one and it does the same thing... then it would be a big waste of cash.

 

i have a 9 acd pump assembly and acd ecu if you decide you need either shoot me a pm.

 

Problem still continues. I took out the relay and checked it for functionality. It is good. jumped the pump and it turned on. same code exists. I did catch a break though. local dodge dealer use to sell mitsu's. I guess the kept all the tools and scanners and should be able to do a full scan of the ACD system to find the problem! I am going to wait a month or so though. i dont like driving the evo on the salt covered roads of Northern MN.

 

You really don't need the mut tool to find out what's wrong with the acd. Use a paper clip and jump terminal 1 and 4 on your OBD2 port with the key off. Then once the paperclip is in turn the key to the on position. The acd lights will start flashing as soon as you turn the key. They will flash slow at first, then start flashing fast second. The idea is you count how many flashes it does slow and that's the first number of the trouble code, then count the fast flashes and that's the second number of the trouble code. So 8 slow flashes + 1 fast flash would be code 81. Chances are you will have code 81 and that means you need a pump rebuild. Good luck and don't wait for that tool you don't even need it.

 

Man ACD issues are such a PITA..... Im still needing to change out 3 wheel speed sensors.....then im sure there will be more issues getting my ACD fully operational.


Good luck

 

do you get 3 lights on immedeately after you turn on the car... ? (meaning 3 lights on and will not switch to 1)

if you just get the 3 lights and it never goes to 1 then you either have a pressure sensor problem, problem in the loom or problem in the ecu..

check the connectors in the drivers and co drivers footwell, behind the kick panel.. take all connectors apart and check for moisture..

 

exactly..

the acd-ayc tool kit I make works not only for testing but will let you bleed the system any way you like.
Having said that, if you just want to bleed the system, you can hotwire it yourself... BUT BE CAREFUL... running the pump for a while is not that bad,.. but do not run the solenoid at 12V for long.. I usually open the solenoid for only a few seconds, and I use a current limiter in my box just in case..

here are further tips..

1. testing the pump with no special tools..

- press accelerator and turn on the ignition... listen to the pump carefully.. A good pump will start and slow down gradually as the pressure rises... Bad pumps just run at constant RPM

- alternatively, if the accelerator method is not working for whatever reason, you can hotwire the pump (red is positive of course)... again listen for slowing pump.. When the pump runs up to max pressure you should be able to hear overflow valve opening .

2. bleeding..
-if you opened the pump or just took it out from the car and-or had it overhauled, then you will have some air in the pump and pressure accumulator.. now this air will not go out by itself. It takes several full cycles of pumping up to max pressure and opening the solenoid to release all oil to get rid of the air.. That is why I prefer bleeding the system by operating the pump manually instead of using the accelerator method.

 

Wow I have the same problem with my IX, just havent deal with it because there's a lack of shops around my area, I'll just wait until I take the car to cbrd for tuning and to fix that, hope you find the problem on your, those three lights are really annoying

 

did that... code 47... meaning bad pressure sensor.

 

pump does not turn on at all since code 47 exists. i can jumper it to turn it on.