yacubkep

iTrader: (14)

All three lights on (Weird). coded for pressure sensor switch. swapped it and code remained. ohmed the wires they came back good.

my next step is to replace the ACD ECU.

Anyone know if the acd ecu is different in the 8's or the 9's? I have a 9.

also what should the sensor be showing for resistance. might try throwing a resistor on it to test to see if I can get the code to go away.

yes I have researched the issue.... a lot since my 3 lights have been on since I have owned the car.

powerdriver

ACD computers are the same. I'd try and reset the system first (aka unplug the battery, push the brake pedal down, and hook up the battery again)

jrainwater

iTrader: (10)

I have never heard of an acd ecu going bad (not to say its impossible) so my bet is your problem is in the pump itself or the wiring. I have rebuilt about 14 of these pumps now and I am extremely familiar with the system and how it works. My last/current/finally fixed issue was a trouble code for the lateral and longitudinal G sensors which I replaced both sensors and the code remained. So I tracked down the wire harness connector and that was where the issue was in that case. I bet there is a wiring issue in regards to the pressure sensor or as I stated before it could be inside the pump itself. The fact that you replaced the pressure sensor and it didn't fix it though leaves little doubt the issue is wiring related imo. Or I guess it is possible its the ecu but I highly doubt that. I have an extra acd ecu by the way since I work on these so much if that's the route you want to take first. I can let it go for $50 if you're interested. But if it was me I would do a quick pump rebuild and trace the wires back for shorts first. Good luck I hope it works out for you. ACD problems are such a pain in the ****.

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

Did you bleed the system?

jrainwater

iTrader: (10)

Haha I was assuming that if he knew enough to swap out the sensor that he would know to bleed the system afterwards but I guess you never know. The first time I did one of these pump rebuilds I had a hell of a time figuring out how to get it bled properly. Used the pedal to the floor technique over and over and it didn't seem to work very well. It's second nature now but I like the method that one European guy who started all the pump rebuilding stuff uses. Just run two hot wires to the the pump a couple times bleeding it until it starts screaming at you. Then you know for sure that it is bled all the way. Also I finally started using evoscan for bleeding so the jumper wires aren't needed anymore but for someone who doesn't have evoscan the wires straight to the pump works well. Just don't keep them on there for too long or you can burn the electrical motor out.

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

Assumptions are the mother of all f***ups

ronaldo9

iTrader: (2)

Don' t mean to derail this thread but I'm having a horrible time bleeding my pump after rebuilding my acd. Doing the pedal to the floor method doesn't seem to be working as I'm just getting drips coming out the nipple on the transfer case. I even went to a shop that had a snapon scan tool to activate the ACD but same issue just getting drips. When I have my girlfriend turn the wheel as the pump is running I can get more fluid to move and air out but it stll just drips slowly. I recently purchased a 1.3u tactrix cable so I'm hoping after I remove pin 9 I can try bleeding with evoscan. I can get the pump to run doing the pedal to the floor but I think the solenoid is not activating unless I turn the wheel.

jrainwater

iTrader: (10)

Do you have a USDM Evo? If so you shouldn't have to turn the steering wheel at all. Did you pour some fluid directly into the hoses before you connected the reservoir back up to the top of the hoses? That helps with getting air pockets out also. You can crack open the bleeder and run two jumper wires directly to the pump. There are two wires on the pump motor and one is red and one is black so its kind of hard to mess up which wire goes where. When you do that the fluid should start coming out of the bleeder in a steady stream and eventually the pump will start screaming at you. You'll know what I'm talking about when it happens. Once it starts screaming just lock the bleeder screw back up and you're done.

yacubkep

iTrader: (14)

I did pull out the pump and it was clean. but since its throwing a pressure sensor code, pump does not turn on so I can not bleed it. I did reset it and it did not change. it orignially was coding the sensor in the steering wheel and i replaced that. now coding pressure sensor.

i Ohmed out all wires and none were shorted.

yacubkep

iTrader: (14)

any one have any ideas? Currently the car is sitting in a heated garage.... with a mechanic ready to try anything since he has spent 4 hours tracing wires and found nothing wrong.... I have no idea my self as I have replaced what the Codes said to replace.

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

Does the pump turn on when you hotwire it?

yacubkep

iTrader: (14)

yes!

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

You can bleed it that way.

jrainwater

iTrader: (10)

Yeah like I said before hot wire it and bleed it until the pump starts screaming at you. What is the exact trouble code you are getting? Is it 45, 46, or 47? Knowing which code yours is throwing will help us to help you figure this out.

charlie.tunah

iTrader: (7)

If you hot wire the pump, make sure you also open the solenoid. It'll drain the reservoir before you know it! Just flip the polarity on the solenoid if it doesnt open once voltage is applied. Ive spent WAAAY to much time under the car watching drips, shouting at my wife in the car pushing the pedal down. I hotwire the pump and solenoid now. You can also do it by yourself this way. I just rigged up a momentary toggle switch on the hotwire with wires long enough to where I can hold it while while operating the bleed screw.