You can WOT, just be in the process of releasing the clutch when you do it. Dont just sit there on the line with the pedal mashed to the floor. So example, your at a light, slowly bring the engine up to the stationary when you are about to start bringing out the clutch smash the pedal and release the clutch at the same time.

Edited for phrasing

 

I cant speak for all setups in all situations, but for me doing it this way produces the best quality of launch with the least violent engagement. No knock no timing being pulled by the ECU and my Transfer case and rear end are still original with 140k miles on them. As i said i have no problem losing traction doing it this way either. I could see maybe needing to do it differently with some massive turbo setup but thats outside of my scope of knowledge.

 

Here is some stuff i found on the net about launching AWD cars including the evo. http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showth...threadid=50056

 

What builds the boost is when it jumps off the rev limiter. I could set my stationary rev limiter to the same as my normal rev limiter and just sit there and manually hold the rpm at 5500 with 0psi of boost. Or I could just use the ecu to my advantage and set it to 5500 rpms and hold the pedal to the floor for as long as I want. With each bump off the rev limiter my boost gauge rises. One it has come up to the boost that I want or it stops climbing up now you are ready to let the clutch out. Hell if you add NLTS to you ROM you don't even have to lift off the gas when you shift either. You could just stage at the 1/4 mile and hold it WOT all the way till the end. If you are just gonna hold your throttle part way anyways then why even have a stationary rev limiter?

If not using the stationary limiter is better maybe somebody should call up ams and tell them to not use it

 

If you sit there at wot on the 2-step for any amount of time its going to start knocking, which is going to pull timing. Look at how fast that launch was in the vid you posted. You dont think that clutch was coming out as he was going wot, he isnt sitting there at wot the whole time. The RPMS are gracefully raised up to the limiter and then its launched.

 

Hit the 2 step once and then it wouldn't do it again it just revved as normal? Restarted the car and it did the same thing. Part of my problem may be that I have some clutch drag. I put mine in 1st, clutch pressed in and revved it and its trying to move.

 

ok I adjusted the clutch rod out and its almost to the end of the bolt and car still seems to buck around a little at full rev? Like its trying to move but only kinda. Is there another place to adjust for a little more throw? Clutch is new about 1300 miles, sprung 6 puck.

 

You sit on the two step to build boost. That is what it is for. I have launched over 100 times at the track and it was never and issue. You may get a little bit of knock but when you launch it goes away and your timing is fine unless your tune is off. Not to mention the fact that now you are launching at 5 to 12 psi of boost instead of 0 or less.

And in the videos yes they are sitting on the two step. You dont hang out on the two step for half an hour. The whole thing happens really fast. I prefer to get to the line first. That way the moment the other guy starts to stage I can go WOT and wait to launch. Helps me build some good boost.

 

Put it up on jacks and put it first gear with the clutch in and see if the wheels move. If they do you have clutch drag for sure. I wouldn't engage the two-step till you get that figured out.

 

I have adjusted the rod at the pedal all the way out almost and the engagement is at the very top of the pedal, it blows. Is there any adjustment at the clutch master?

 

In the end do what ever it is you gotta do to get the best 60' times that you can with your setup.

 

Is that to me Biggie? My clutch is pretty new, so maybe that's why the engagement is so high but it blows.

 

no that was me exiting the debate on how to properly launch off the two step.

If you are revving the engine in 1st with the clutch pressed in, it should not move no matter the rpm. If its trying to move then you have clutch drag. Since you have adjusted the pedal as much as you can, the next thing i would try would be bleeding the clutch line to see if that helps.

 

Thank you, thats how I have done it, and thats how a friend of mine did it with his stock 9 with a MBC, and ran a high 11 with it....

Ok so how about if the car is in neutral on jack stands and the wheels still move? After my clutch swap I started the car up and all the wheels started creeping.

 

To be honest I posted yesterday after a long day of skiing. I have not had a clutch drag in forever it seems.

you need to put the car in gear while checking for clutch drag. It definitely sounds like you have clutch drag. Sorry to say. Should be an easy fix though.

I don't know why it is dragging in neutral alone.