Boost leak test should be priority #1 with idle issues. My money is on that! ��

 

The dealer usually has the temp sensors in stock since its the same one for a ton of mitsu models. I have seen the autozone ones read erroneously and thats why for $30 more it is way worth it for oem. The iac like I said can be had for around $50 off eBay just look for the sebring one. Normally I would say screw it and get the cheap temp sensor but I have had bad luck with non oem ones and plus there are SO many things that the ecu uses the signal from the temp sensor to work out. Algorithms from that sensor are far to important imho to use a cheaper one.

 

I'll second this. Used a autozone temp sensor on my talon and it actually made idle issues worse. But I'm going to stick to my guns and say BLT as soon as you can. No need to throw money at it if tightening a loose coupler will fix it.

 

I'm getting this thread mixed up with another one my bad. You should do a boost leak test before spending money on anything man. If you have a local Evo shop that can do it with smoke that's even better.

 

I have the necessary equipment and experience to do this on my own in the garage. I just need to find the time. Current plan is to log the car when I get out of work to see what values the ecu temp sensor is showing. If that is off, I'm betting that is the issue.

 

Good plan to log it before swapping it out. Is this issue new out of know where or does it come and go?

 

New issue out of left field

 

Temps from the sensor looked good on the way home. And when I was almost home it threw code p0507. Its the IAC

 

Actually that code just means that it is idling higher then the ecu thinks it should be idling which could have easily been caused by you messing around with your biss screw so much. I hope an iac solves your problem but I wouldn't say that code guarantees it by any means.

 

The randomness of the issue, coupled with the somewhat low resistance I measured and what appeared to be damaged inside the IAC leads me to believe this is PROBABLY it. I will replace it and see if it solves the issue. But thanks for all the advice guys! I will report back when this item is replaced.

 

Replaced the IAC and all is right on the world again. Thanks for all the help!

 

Ugh, car still isn't running quite right. It seemed to run fine when I installed the IAC yesterday, so we set the BISS with evoscan. Started it this morning and it stumbled to catch idle, then the RPMs jumped up. Driving to work, the car would stall when in neutral if I didn't give it gas. So I backed out the BISS a little. At lunch it was a little better but did the same thing. Then in neutral while slowing to a stop I had a bit of idle surge. Backed out the BISS some more and it is better, but on a cold start it still has some trouble catching idle, then RPMs go back up. When changing gears the point at which the idle switch would go off seems kind of touchy. Like I would switch gears and tap the throttle and get more of a response than I should expect. When the car is warm it seems to idle at like 1k or so and it just doesn't sound right. Every so often I'll catch a "stumble" in the exhaust note. I'm not sure how else to explain it other than it sounds kind of like idling with mild cams at stock idle. It's like one miss here or there. It just doesn't feel right. I'll log my ride in to work tomorrow to get more data. But does anyone have any ideas of what I should look for? I'm wondering if I have a boost or vacuum leak. I can do a boost leak test on Sunday to verify.

 

This morning I unplugged the battery for a good 20 minutes hoping something will get reset and just work right. Then I went out and started the car and started logging. It had to have been running for at least 10 minutes before I drove it to work. The first start was a little rough, but after a second of low idle, the rpms jumped up to like 1400 or so since the car was cold. I let it run and when I came back out to head to work RPMs were at around 1k, maybe 900. Drive to work seemed ok, car didn't stall in neutral, no idle surge. When I parked it and let it idle, the rpms were a little high (like 950-1000), but it was ok. I'm not convinced it's 100% yet, but I've attached the log from this morning. I don't see anything out of the ordinary. ISC steps looked to be about right from what I've read. I'm not sure what the heck "CrankSignalSw" is and why it was going back and forth between 0 and 1 when I was parked at work. So any input is appreciated guys.

PS - I uploaded the file with a .bin extension since this forum allows only up to 100K for zip files, and 1.91MB for .bin files. Change the extension to .zip and extract the csv file to look at the log.

 

Keep saying its a boost leak man. Everything you are saying screams boost leak. The fact the iac didn't fix it leaves very little doubt at this point. Also since you changed the iac check for leaks around the new one. That little flat gasket they use on it doesn't seal for sheet. Good luck man. Let us know what happens after a boost leak test please.

 

Yea, current plan for this weekend is to clean the MAF, clean the TB, and boost leak test / vacuum leak test.

...stupid cars...