ok I will try that tomorrow and see if it works thank you very much I appreciate it alot. I will let you know

 

no problem, had a similar issue on a 2g talon that i had built. i even packed the oil pump and everything, but no matter how long i had my drill on it, it would not prime, finally i forced some oil into the pump from one of the ports and it finally started pumping.

 

ok so I did this procedure and pump oil through a fitting manually and that work wonders now the car starts and im getting real good oil pressure. The problem now is that the boost gauge marks -10 and wont move and the car is running really ruff and wont stay at idle you have to keep giving it gas. thanks for the help everyone

 

It is recommended against cranking the motor with the ignition or fuel cut to prime the pump.

 

exactly wat I did I pulled out the spark plug wires and pull the injectors now the car is running with good oil pressure but boost gauge wont work and is running ruff..the gauge is a defi boost gauge and I never had a problem with it

 

ummm...please elaborate? why is it recommended against?

 

look for a big vacuum leak, possibly the brake booster line. if you think everything looks fine, do a boost leak test. any codes? double check all your wires and connections

 

ok no codes as of now I'll double check all the lines. thank you

 

Make sure you didnt put the cam angle sensor on 180 degrees off. I did that and the engine would barely run until i fixed it.

 

thanks biggie I will try that when I get back from work. I really do think theres a serious vaccum leak somewhere because I get-10 on my boost gauge and I accelerate the car and nothing it wont move and theres a big hissing noise coming from the engine. but I appreciate it the tip ill look at that also. thank you

 

ok the oil pressure gauge keeps marking 0psi and it goes up to 2 psi but I took out the oil line to the turbo and boy was there pressure!...so now the car misfires like crazy and wont let me drive pass 3k rpms I need to break in the car but I can't how is acting up thanks everyone for the feedback.

 

Buschur made an elaborate post on it, hate to say it but search.

 

How did you remove the line? This sounds a bit confusing.

 

sorry to confuse you, I took out the bolt that holds the turbo oil feed line where the cylinder head is. I have a map ef2.5 turbo. hopes that help, the big problem right now is the misfing like crazy. thanks

 

did a quick search and the only thing i found is him saying not to do it, but doesnt say why...i really dont see the harm in cranking the engine to distribute oil through out the entire engine, i would rather crank the engine and prime the system knowing damn well that i am getting oil to everything rather than take the chance of the oil pump cavitating and not pumping at all, just like what happened to the OP. would you take the risk of your turbo spinning at 10-20k rpms with out any oil?

if you can find a more elaborate post, explaining exactly why its bad, please feel free to inform me.