Need help removing rock chips off my evo iii asap!!!
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From: fl
Need help removing rock chips off my evo iii asap!!!
Hi my name is Steven, I am new to this forum… I have a 1995 Mitsubishi Lancer EVO III (RED) with some rock chips on the hood and bumper, I've been doing a lot of reading in the forum but can't find anything about rock chip repair… I saw a TV commercial this past Sunday on Car Crazy on the Velocity Channel for a company called EZ Chip Repair…. I went to there website Ezchiprepair.com and looked around… the product looks good, so i went to google and read the reviews and they have mostly good reviews. So my question is has anyone in this forum tried this product??? I would love their feedback before I buy it…. Thank you
You need to get a fiberglass pen to clean out the chips, then use denatured alcohol (I like 100% denatured, however it's more expensive than IPA.
Fiberglass pen:
After the chips are cleaned out then you can start applying your touch-up paint. I prefer to put down about 5-7 very thin layers of touch-up paint with approximately 2 days drying time between coats (after two days if you drove the car then you will want to wipe the spots with alcohol again).
The paint should look like small mounds on top of the factory paint.
Soak your 3,000 grit sandpaper overnight in room temp water and start your wet sanding (this is where you can really screw up your paint, so don't go overboard or try to do this on corners/lips/edges of panels.
After you've married the two surfaces back together then you will need to cut the paint with a orbital, then wax to protect the areas.
Wet-sanding:
touch-up spots that were sanded on side of car:
In-process sanding to check progress, note that the surfaces are not married perfectly. I elected to go no further with the sandpaper and finish with the orbital to hide these minor defects:
Side by side shot (wet-sanded on the left, one pass of the orbital on the right:
Finished product:
Fiberglass pen:
After the chips are cleaned out then you can start applying your touch-up paint. I prefer to put down about 5-7 very thin layers of touch-up paint with approximately 2 days drying time between coats (after two days if you drove the car then you will want to wipe the spots with alcohol again).
The paint should look like small mounds on top of the factory paint.
Soak your 3,000 grit sandpaper overnight in room temp water and start your wet sanding (this is where you can really screw up your paint, so don't go overboard or try to do this on corners/lips/edges of panels.
After you've married the two surfaces back together then you will need to cut the paint with a orbital, then wax to protect the areas.
Wet-sanding:
touch-up spots that were sanded on side of car:
In-process sanding to check progress, note that the surfaces are not married perfectly. I elected to go no further with the sandpaper and finish with the orbital to hide these minor defects:
Side by side shot (wet-sanded on the left, one pass of the orbital on the right:
Finished product:
You need to get a fiberglass pen to clean out the chips, then use denatured alcohol (I like 100% denatured, however it's more expensive than IPA.
Fiberglass pen: http://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Rus.../dp/B003TH5JKW
After the chips are cleaned out then you can start applying your touch-up paint. I prefer to put down about 5-7 very thin layers of touch-up paint with approximately 2 days drying time between coats (after two days if you drove the car then you will want to wipe the spots with alcohol again).
The paint should look like small mounds on top of the factory paint.
Soak your 3,000 grit sandpaper overnight in room temp water and start your wet sanding (this is where you can really screw up your paint, so don't go overboard or try to do this on corners/lips/edges of panels.
After you've married the two surfaces back together then you will need to cut the paint with a orbital, then wax to protect the areas.
Wet-sanding:
touch-up spots that were sanded on side of car:
In-process sanding to check progress, note that the surfaces are not married perfectly. I elected to go no further with the sandpaper and finish with the orbital to hide these minor defects:
Side by side shot (wet-sanded on the left, one pass of the orbital on the right:
Finished product:
Fiberglass pen: http://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Rus.../dp/B003TH5JKW
After the chips are cleaned out then you can start applying your touch-up paint. I prefer to put down about 5-7 very thin layers of touch-up paint with approximately 2 days drying time between coats (after two days if you drove the car then you will want to wipe the spots with alcohol again).
The paint should look like small mounds on top of the factory paint.
Soak your 3,000 grit sandpaper overnight in room temp water and start your wet sanding (this is where you can really screw up your paint, so don't go overboard or try to do this on corners/lips/edges of panels.
After you've married the two surfaces back together then you will need to cut the paint with a orbital, then wax to protect the areas.
Wet-sanding:
touch-up spots that were sanded on side of car:
In-process sanding to check progress, note that the surfaces are not married perfectly. I elected to go no further with the sandpaper and finish with the orbital to hide these minor defects:
Side by side shot (wet-sanded on the left, one pass of the orbital on the right:
Finished product:
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I've been using Dr. Color Chip to fill my chips. It doesn't look perfect, but unless you know where the chips are you probably would never notice them.
Ryan's method is superior, but I haven't built up enough courage to wet sand yet
Ryan's method is superior, but I haven't built up enough courage to wet sand yet
Thank you for the kind words!
Wet-sanding is not for the feint of heart and can result in the type of damage that only re-spraying can solve.
However, it is my feeling that if using 3,000 grit 3M wet-sanding sandpaper, HAND application (do not use a block or eraser as a backing), do about 10 gentle swipes in each direction (horizontal/vertical), while using additional water (distilled) for lubricant then re-checking your work (drying the surface, checking with a strong, bright light) it should take a considerable period of time to damage your paint.
That being said, after you do the wet-sanding, you should not expect to be able to remove the sanding marks with over-the-counter compounds or the average SEARS random orbital with wool bonnet. So you will need to really dedicate yourself to this type of paint correction from prep to completion.
My car was purchased after it had been used for rallycross. It had ~2-6" of mud caked over the entire undercarriage and a plethora of rock chips. It took about 160 total hours of detailing to get the paint and undercarriage sorted out.
Wet-sanding is not for the feint of heart and can result in the type of damage that only re-spraying can solve.
However, it is my feeling that if using 3,000 grit 3M wet-sanding sandpaper, HAND application (do not use a block or eraser as a backing), do about 10 gentle swipes in each direction (horizontal/vertical), while using additional water (distilled) for lubricant then re-checking your work (drying the surface, checking with a strong, bright light) it should take a considerable period of time to damage your paint.
That being said, after you do the wet-sanding, you should not expect to be able to remove the sanding marks with over-the-counter compounds or the average SEARS random orbital with wool bonnet. So you will need to really dedicate yourself to this type of paint correction from prep to completion.
My car was purchased after it had been used for rallycross. It had ~2-6" of mud caked over the entire undercarriage and a plethora of rock chips. It took about 160 total hours of detailing to get the paint and undercarriage sorted out.
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